Those of you that have pop testers, are you buying springs and shims to be able to pressure match your own injectors?? If you are where are you able to get them?? I have access to a pop tester and the ford nozzle cleaning kit at work and would like to check my nozzles and pressure match them if possible.
Injector parts
- Thread starter dsltech83
- Start date
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I don't know of anyone buying parts but... what I am doing is stripping the shims from the two sets og G codes. I do have a turbo shop that can supply any shim needed. As for actually rebuilding any injector is going to be expensive. I understand after a new set runs for around 5000 miles the spring has taken a set point and usually will live a long life at that set pressure. Probably around 150,000 miles. After that its kinda hit and miss as to how the pressures are holding.. The nozzles do wear on the pin also... My plan is to set pop pressures at 1850 to 1900 lbs... Maybe closer if at all possible... Shims can be found from 1 thous up to 30 thous and everything in between... I do know this about that... Lets say you needed 30 thousands shim... You would not want to use 30 1thousands shims... The slite bends and finger dirt between them will throw off the stack along with pressures. So use as few shims as possible when making adjustments...
Diesel JD
Full Access Member
Hey guys I think you can get the shims from US Diesel Parts, but you'll have to have the injector apart and know what size it is according to what they tell me. The guy told me they have some for cheap and others that are so expensive to make it not economical to buy them...only in huge quantities and he wasn't sure about our injectors. I want to see somebody do their own remans but I don't know if it could possibly be economical since if you have to replace the nozzles it will be the same or cheaper to just by remans or new injs.
Black dawg
Registered User
just get yourself some cores to sacrifice. curious about the nozzle cleaning kit.
JD, Im surprised usdieselparts would sell you those, they can be kinda prickish in that direction. but it comes naturally to them, as they are dodge boys.
JD, Im surprised usdieselparts would sell you those, they can be kinda prickish in that direction. but it comes naturally to them, as they are dodge boys.
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
I just did mine today and used two shims out of an older injector. Each injector I pulled had 4 or 5 in them ranging from as thin as the cursor on your screen to about as wide as four of them together. I had one that was WAYY low and added the fat shim to it. Had to pull three of the thin ones out to make it work.
At 1400-1500 psi, you really only need one additional shim. You may even see that you have 6 ot 7 of them that are within spec.
SWS
At 1400-1500 psi, you really only need one additional shim. You may even see that you have 6 ot 7 of them that are within spec.
SWS
Isnt setting injectors fun!!!
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Ah don't know yet... Will be doing it soon....
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
It sucks. My tester leaks a little...(or a LOT) so I have to pump it a lot but when it pops, and you know you have it at the right pressure, it makes it all worth it.
After you do it though, you know how many shimms it takes for the psi you need. I mean, you can get it close.
I don't know how to stop the leaky ones yet though.
SWS
After you do it though, you know how many shimms it takes for the psi you need. I mean, you can get it close.
I don't know how to stop the leaky ones yet though.
SWS
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
Russ, to look at injectors to see if they are leaking, is it better to do it directly after running or do you make a cold start and let it sit for a few minutes or what? If they are leaking, how do you fix it?
SWS
SWS
I'll have to take a couple pics when I get back to work next week- i'm at school learnin all this newfangled electronic diesel stuff this week
. The kit is just some brass scrapers and brushes to clean the outside of the nozzles.
You dont they are worn out, after trying to repair many it became apparent that it was cheaper and WAY easier to go the new route.
I would usediesel kleen to pump through them to help decarbon and see if they stop dripping.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
My shop manual states this.... Using the pop tester pressureize the injector to around 200 lbs under the pop pressure. A dry tip is ok. If a drop of fuel leaks thru its also ok if it does not drip off the tip in 5 sceonds. So pump up the injector and watch the tip for a droplet of fuel to form and if it drips off in 5 seconds its time for a new injector as posted above... Russ knows way more about injectors than I...
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
Yeah, I tried to keep the pressure up, but the tester kinda leaks. The only one I think may be a problem had smoke coming out of the hole when I pulled it. Not sure what's up with that.
Back to the thread, there is also a difference in the internals of the injectors I have found. The factory ones were "A" code and had two return holes in the mid plate (not sure what it is called) inside as opposed to the "B" code ones I have that only have one.
SWS
Back to the thread, there is also a difference in the internals of the injectors I have found. The factory ones were "A" code and had two return holes in the mid plate (not sure what it is called) inside as opposed to the "B" code ones I have that only have one.
SWS
