slvrwrx
yeah, son
Does anyone have a write up on how to properly replace an injection pump without messing up the timing? Ive only found out how to improperly remove the ip..
injection pump replacement write up
- Thread starter slvrwrx
- Start date
Devon Harley
Full Access Member
What you found is tottaly gonna mess the timming up big no no. Just change the ip an have it timed there is no way to keep the timming the exact same.
'94IDITurbo7.3
HAMMER DOWN!
gandalf
Senior Member
Mel's article is very good. When I replaced the IP I printed the first several pages and kept them handy. It's really not a hard job if you plan ahead and work carefully.
First and foremost, DO NOT remove the gear cover the IP is mounted on. If you remove that cover you're almost guaranteed to mess up the timing. There are 3 studs with nuts on the rear facing side of that cover which must come off. One is easy, one can be difficult, and one can be a real *****. Then there are three bolts on the front side of that gear cover. They're hiding under a cover plate, or maybe the oil fill. They look strange, but a 12 point socket will work.
If you get stuck, or are not sure how to proceed, stop and come to the forum.
First and foremost, DO NOT remove the gear cover the IP is mounted on. If you remove that cover you're almost guaranteed to mess up the timing. There are 3 studs with nuts on the rear facing side of that cover which must come off. One is easy, one can be difficult, and one can be a real *****. Then there are three bolts on the front side of that gear cover. They're hiding under a cover plate, or maybe the oil fill. They look strange, but a 12 point socket will work.
If you get stuck, or are not sure how to proceed, stop and come to the forum.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
To properly remove and install an injection pump you will need a socket thats 5/16 12 point. All I can find in that size is the 3/8 drive size. So I also got a 3/8 to 1/2 inch adapter so I can use my 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. On the 7.3 the gear cover behind the injection pump has a two bolt triangle cover. Remove that. Then you will see the three drive bolts that the 5/16 socket fits. Remove them. Now remove everything to reach the three 9/16 nuts that holds the pump to the same gear cover. Most of the time its best to remove the fast idle solenoid for more room. The top nut will not just unscrew and come off the pump stud. The pump needs to be moved so it camn come off.. No big deal. Remove the hard lines at the injecter with a 5/8 wrench. Remove the filter to pump feed line. Remove the throttle cable bracket from the intake manifold. A couple of wires off the top of the pump and the return line and simpley lift out. Its a tight fit and if you move the pump towards the passenger side fender and lift it up between the two studs on that side it will lift up and out. There is no way any actuall timing marks will help you when it gets another pump installed. Every pump is timed differantly internally so no marks will set the proper timing. You will have to guess till its timed with a meter. If you have an auto trans the C6 has a vacuum modulater on the drivers side of the pump and the E4OD has an electrical switch on that side. Carefully remove both and see what drives both. You will need to swap those drive tabs for the vacuum mod or the switch to work. Careful because the tps switch for the E4OD has a certain way it connects and drives the switch. Never ever remove the 4 bolts that holds the gear cover to the engine block and lift off the pump, gear and cover as one piece. Only time you do it that way is taking one off a wrecking yard engine. But you still take the pump off the gear and cover to install on your engine.
slvrwrx
yeah, son
Thanks a lot guys. So when installing the working ip.. will the dowel cause It to only go on one way? Or is there a possibility of installing 180* off or something like that? And also, guessing about the timing wont cause a runaway situation would It? I read the article and I don't know where I could get my truck static timed.. is it doable at home? Will the engine run at all?
gandalf
Senior Member
Right, the dowel on the timing gear fits neatly into the slot on the flange on the IP. It will install only one way, so even if the engine rotates a bit, the IP will adjust that bit to match. Notice, btw, the three threaded bolt holes on that flange. Those are for the three bolts coming through from the front, the ones requiring the 5/16th 12 point socket. Notice also the printed copy of Mel's article in the picture. Keep a copy handy for reference.
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Can30Diesel
Full Access Member
that dowel lets you make sure you have the pump in right. Unless I have been real lucky on my last three installs, I don't think there is a way to install them 180 out like with a distributor. Make sure the factory lines on the pump and on the housing line up and keep that gear housing on as it makes it harder to accidentally skip a tooth when installing the new pump.
Once the pump is in, make sure the injector lines are cracked open a little on all the injectors to speed up bleeding the air from the system. Remember to not crank the starter for long periods of time and give it time to cool off every so often. Once it is almost starting then tighten up the lines at the injectors and it should fire up pretty soon.
It should run though be it probably not perfectly and it might stall a couple times. Once its running, I would get it timed.
Once the pump is in, make sure the injector lines are cracked open a little on all the injectors to speed up bleeding the air from the system. Remember to not crank the starter for long periods of time and give it time to cool off every so often. Once it is almost starting then tighten up the lines at the injectors and it should fire up pretty soon.
It should run though be it probably not perfectly and it might stall a couple times. Once its running, I would get it timed.
slvrwrx
yeah, son
Okay guys I got the truck running. It runs real rough right now tho and I'm not sure if I have oil pressure to my turbo. My dummy gauge is working showing oil pressure but my aftermarket gauge is not yet attached. I ran it only for a short period of time. I think maybe the timing is off I have no idea where to take it to be timed.. I might look into doing it myself.
My buddy took a quick video of it running. My stack isnt connected yet its just the downpipe attached.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uwSlsu6r-U&feature=youtube_gdata_player
My buddy took a quick video of it running. My stack isnt connected yet its just the downpipe attached.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7uwSlsu6r-U&feature=youtube_gdata_player
Can30Diesel
Full Access Member
Well from what I can see on the video you have grey/white exhaust and that usually comes to be when the engine is cold and when there is air in the fuel system. If this is the first time its been started since you installed the pump, it sometimes takes a bit for the air to flush out and the idle to smooth out. It also sounds like your cold advance high idle isn't working because that engine sounds like its idling around 500-600rpm and usually the cold advance high idle bumps it up to about 800-1000rpm. There should be a blade connector for that and maybe it got missed?
Otherwise, make sure all the injector lines are tight and that nothing was missed and also check the timing lines like I mentioned earlier. Differences of the thickness of a postcard will make big differences in how the motor runs.
Otherwise, make sure all the injector lines are tight and that nothing was missed and also check the timing lines like I mentioned earlier. Differences of the thickness of a postcard will make big differences in how the motor runs.
slvrwrx
yeah, son
Is there a way I could have installed the ip with the timing so far off I'm going to hurt the engine? There's a little line stamped on the ip and I am assuming that is the tdc mark.. I just don't want to mess anything up by running it with the timing severely off. It should be pretty close tho..
Can30Diesel
Full Access Member
Things like skipping a tooth during installation and not lining up the timing lines could put your pump out of timing and it can be really ******* them if the timing is off.
That line on the top of the pump, look for one like it on the housing that covers the gear that the pump bolts to, line them up exactly and as long as you didn't skip a gear tooth during the installation this should get you close enough to base timing (also called static timing I think) to get the truck running well enough to get the pump timed.
Timing a pump can be done a few ways. It really depends on how granular you want to get. Generally people use the pulse method which is basically just a tool that clamps onto the #1 fuel line and picks up the pulses caused by driving fuel at high pressure through the line. It turns that action into an electric signal which can be read by a timing light as if it was connected to a spark plug wire on a gasser and the rest is pretty similar regarding the timing light.
One big difference in adjusting timing is with these engines, I believe the engine has to be running at 2000 rpm when you are getting your reading. Do a search, there are many detailed writeups on this and other timing methods.
That line on the top of the pump, look for one like it on the housing that covers the gear that the pump bolts to, line them up exactly and as long as you didn't skip a gear tooth during the installation this should get you close enough to base timing (also called static timing I think) to get the truck running well enough to get the pump timed.
Timing a pump can be done a few ways. It really depends on how granular you want to get. Generally people use the pulse method which is basically just a tool that clamps onto the #1 fuel line and picks up the pulses caused by driving fuel at high pressure through the line. It turns that action into an electric signal which can be read by a timing light as if it was connected to a spark plug wire on a gasser and the rest is pretty similar regarding the timing light.
One big difference in adjusting timing is with these engines, I believe the engine has to be running at 2000 rpm when you are getting your reading. Do a search, there are many detailed writeups on this and other timing methods.
if the gear wasn't moved in the R&R procedure of the pump, you won't have a problem. Only way you can move the gear is by removing the four bolts and pulling the cover.
oh yea....you can hear the turbo in the vid.
I am in Modesto, Ca. I have the necessary meter/light and have done a couple already. PM me and we might be able to get together to get it timed.
While we are at it, you can see what is needed and how to do it.
It isn't that hard. 
slvrwrx
yeah, son
I am in Modesto, Ca. I have the necessary meter/light and have done a couple already. PM me and we might be able to get together to get it timed.
While we are at it, you can see what is needed and how to do it.
Thanks! Ill pm you soon.. I'm going ti try to line thr factory lines up as best I can and make sure my turbo is getting oil. It should be a lot louder..
