Ignition switch mechanical problem

Full Monte

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My '88 7.3 250 has an ignition switch that doesn't rotate easily. I feel like I need to put a crescent wrench on it to get it to turn. Other than that, it works. Any advice? Is it difficult to replace it? Thanks:dunno
 

LCAM-01XA

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It could be several things - bad lock cylinder, bent linkage, or a very very messed up ignition switch. The switch is unlikely, methinks, the lock cylinder is easy to replace - turn to ACC, push paper clip through hole under it, turn to "OFF" (the position between "Lock" and ON"), pull the whole cylinder out, install in reverse order. Now if tis the linkage, that's where things get interesting, hope it ain't that cause you gonna need to pull the wheel.
 

Papabear

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just bypass the whole system and leave it as a dummy and put a locking kill switch under your dash and o toggle under there too than use a weather proof push button for the starter in plain sight i did this to an old pickup i had one time and i had 4 different peopke try to steal it by popping the ignition and well they always gave up
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I agree with just bypassing the whole mess.

You can have a hidden power-up switch that turns on power to the starter push-button.

A second toggle-switch can take care of "ignition ON" circuits, best by triggering a relay that in turn powers a fuse-block, with all the various "ignition ON" goodies connected at the fuse-block.

Over the years, I have had just about every single episode that one could have with failed key-switches.

One night, the wife came home in her little toodle-around piece of crap Corsica, came in the house, and says "I can't shut my car off.":dunno

That was a first for that car, as it usually was more apt to not start at all, rather than not shut off.cookoo

I knew exactly the trick to kill the engine; I turned on MAX-A/C and shifted to DRIVE; the engine promptly stumbled and died.LOL
 

Papabear

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i just tend to remove the b.s to make it more REDNECK friendly as it breaks down i just try to find a way to simplify the system and remove the specialty/specfic (expensive) parts out of the equation and convert to universal find them anywhere parts
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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i just tend to remove the b.s to make it more REDNECK friendly as it breaks down i just try to find a way to simplify the system and remove the specialty/specfic (expensive) parts out of the equation and convert to universal find them anywhere parts




EXACTLY !!! ;Sweet ............................
 

94f450sd

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like calvin said,is it a tilt column?there is a little white metal piece inside the column that breaks and it either make it very hard to turn the ignition or the ignition will turn and do nothing.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Sounds more like the ignition actuator is getting built up with crud and needs a good cleaning before it breaks.

IIRC someone did a write up on awhile back can't remember who for the life of me tho.
 

RedTruck

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Sounds more like the ignition actuator is getting built up with crud and needs a good cleaning before it breaks.

IIRC someone did a write up on awhile back can't remember who for the life of me tho.

Could this cause the starter to stay engaged in the run position? Have you cleaned it before?
 

Joe Mc

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i just tend to remove the b.s to make it more REDNECK friendly as it breaks down i just try to find a way to simplify the system and remove the specialty/specfic (expensive) parts out of the equation and convert to universal find them anywhere parts

Expensive specialty parts? When I replaced the ignition switch it was $8.99.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Could this cause the starter to stay engaged in the run position? Have you cleaned it before?

It's very possible because it can keep the actuator rod that goes down the column to the switch.

Yup after replacing 2 I keep them cleaned out and lubed up cause living on a dirt road they get dirty pretty quickly.
 

sassyrel

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papabear---please break up your sentences--not condeming you--just makes it hard to read----
 

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