IDIT turbo removal

[Dualie]

Since I have never actually changed the Glow plugs on my truck myself, I always had someone else do it. NOW I REMEMBER why I never wanted to F with it.

But to the point of this post, How do you remove the stock ATS Turbo on a 1994 IDIT with the ATS upgrade housing and down pipe? I have got most of the heat shield off, I really cant tell too well what's the easiest way to get that basterd out of there.

I was thinking that removing the waste gate housing would be the ticket but I really don't think those bolts are coming without a fight.

This truck really needs to find a new home in the not too distant future. Just tired of having to fix something every 2 thousand miles.

 

[bikepilot]

You don't need to remove the turbo to change glow plugs.

 

[sassyrel]

as bkplt said--just need a deep 10 m/m socket--with swivel--and can get them out--just not a piece of cake----

 

[bikepilot]

Yep, in a pinch you can even get them with a open end wrench if the are not in there too tight.

 

[troutwest66]

I did mine over a year ago and the worst part of the job was getting the harness boots off the plugs without destroying them. I had to fix one with the shrink tube trick. I used a combo of 3/8" deep socket with a swivel and extensions to get the two under the turbo. I tackled them first because I knew the others would be a piece of cake. I also used the driver handle that came in my 1/4" socket set at one time or another while under the turbo. Use a piece of fuel hose to get the GPs started. Easier than trying to reach in with bare hands to get the plugs started. Don't forget the anti-seize on the threads for future removal. May want to have a return line kit on hand in case you develop a leak especially if your lines have been on there for a while. I did the lines after the plugs since they were on there for a while before I bought the truck. It actually wasn't as bad a job as it could've been. Just tackle the two under the turbo first. I believe I started with the furthest one back.

 

[Dualie]

IM having a hell of a time getting in there! My fat hands cant even get the damn plugs off either of the GP's back there. Plus the fricken plug disintegrated on me and I cant get back in there to get that SOB fixed. Also I want to compression test the motor since I have all the adapters to do so. And for peace of mind.

And now it started to rain! I wonder how much to have this thing towed over to the binder dealer and have them finish? UGH

 

[troutwest66]

I used a screw driver and sparkplug boot puller to get the wires off the GPs. Also try a piece of small nylon rope to wrap around the wire end and use the screwdriver shaft or something to pull at the right angle with. Use it like a lasso. I can't remember now which sequence worked under the turbo but trial and error will get you there. I was able to snake my right hand under the turbo a ways from the middle of the intake. There is a gap in there believe it or not. That's why I messed with the two under the turbo first because once I got those the other six were as fast or faster than changing sparkplugs.

 

[Dualie]

But no one has the answer to my actual question on how to remove the turbo? I still want to compression check those back cylinders. And I need to repair both those connectors that got screwed up. lately I have had the **** touch, every thing I touch turns to ****. So I really don't want to replace any parts that I screw up when I take the turbo off.

 

[towcat]

But no one has the answer to my actual question on how to remove the turbo? I still want to compression check those back cylinders. And I need to repair both those connectors that got screwed up. lately I have had the **** touch, every thing I touch turns to ****. So I really don't want to replace any parts that I screw up when I take the turbo off.

don-
if you don't have to pull the turbo, you are going to be skinned knuckles ahead. With the amount of heat shielding on your factory setup, this is going to be a challenge at the best. But if you do insist on doing a turbo pull, the four bolts on the up pipe and the two bolts on the oil return pipe are going to be your biggest challenge. Serously tho, there's no reason for you to pull the turbo. It's really not in your way. If you like to borrow my compression tester and the adapters, give me a yell. I know Gene is also in town, and he has the smallest fingers I know, so he can do wonders fishing out the GP's.

 

[bikepilot]

I used a long pry bar to reach in and pop the connectors off the GP's. Worked great, didn't damage any of them. It helped that I had the injector lines off the two under the turbo at the time (I had done the other six earlier...)

 

[troutwest66]

I used a long pry bar to reach in and pop the connectors off the GP's. Worked great, didn't damage any of them. It helped that I had the injector lines off the two under the turbo at the time (I had done the other six earlier...)

That's a good idea. I have one I use for popping loose the little retainer pins on the door panels.

 

[Dualie]

Just a status report. I have done absolutely NOTHING since I first asked this question. I screwed with it for 10 min while heading out the door to work. Its been cold windy and was raining intermittently. I might need to get to working on it soon as I think the PSD dualie has a getting larger front main seal leak that will need some attention soon.

Oh wait I did do something to it. I pressurized the cooling system to try and find out where the hell my coolant is going and how its ending up in the engine oil. rebuilt the engine oil cooler 12,000 miles and 4 oil changes ago and this latest sample turned up more coolant contamination not as bad as last sample but still big enough to be causing a fair amount of upper cylinder wear.