I think I found the "real" problem!

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
I have not found any loctite on these three bolts ever. My navistar shop manual states the torque is 25 lbs....:eek:I know that sounds high for such a small bolt but.. They are a hardened material. Nappa sells them as replacement bolts for the u-joints. Hope this helps out some... Defenantly 7 lbs is not correct.
 

Agnem

Using the Force!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Posts
17,067
Reaction score
374
Location
Delta, PA
All these bolts do is hold a gear on. There is virtually no force being exerted against them! If the engine was running, and you had a way to do it I bet you could hold the gear on the IP shaft with your finger and it wouldn't come off. Locktite is way overkill. Yours were loose probably because they were not torqued correctly.
 

Brutis

Work in Progress
Joined
May 26, 2009
Posts
226
Reaction score
1
Location
Niagara, Wisconsin
What, hold the gear to the shaft with your finger? ;p

No, I was actually trying to reply to Mel's previous post about calibrating my thumb. I got the position of my post messed up LOL

Well, all my hopes were dashed :mad: when a couple valves let loose. So now at least I know my problem and can head in the right direction. The big question I still have is the big oil leak (more like a flow) down the back of teh engine somewhere - I can't see where it starts. Should I just plan on pulling the motor? Probably easier to do the valves anyway.
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
Wait, did the valves just self-destruct today? If they took a beating from the pistons would you have to replace the pistons too?
 

88beast

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 23, 2009
Posts
2,219
Reaction score
1
Location
pa
penndiesel great prices at least for me
so if valves are bad why? what caused is this now a new issue
but if you had fuel in oil lift pump is the only gasket that could leak for that
the ip could leak to the drain thing on the back of the block but highly unlikely
 

Brutis

Work in Progress
Joined
May 26, 2009
Posts
226
Reaction score
1
Location
Niagara, Wisconsin
No, I'm sure they were the problem all along, but up till this afternoon any noise they made was so intermittent that it was hard to track. I was chasing fuel system issues (partly upon recommendation, partly blind hope), and was running the truck today and the noise really got bad. Now when I crack injection lines #1 and #4 make no effect whatsoever. Before when I cracked lines the idle dropped at all cylinders - keeping my hopes of fueling problems alive. Not sure why the valves acted quite the way they did, or what the full extent of the damage may be. I still need to figure out what cause the big oil leak too.
 

LCAM-01XA

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Posts
5,932
Reaction score
12
Location
my very own hell
On the oil leak, could it be a loose sender for the gauge? Some people here have reported the thing vibrating itself loose and then since it's in the main pressure line it will leak a lot of oil...
 

Brutis

Work in Progress
Joined
May 26, 2009
Posts
226
Reaction score
1
Location
Niagara, Wisconsin
That is possible. On quick examination I don't think its leaking. I actually just re-installed it yesterday. Its obviously hard to see back there (I'll use a mirror tomorrow), but I felt around back there and it doesn't feel wet right now.
 

plywood

Recovered N/A
Joined
Mar 14, 2010
Posts
952
Reaction score
8
Location
Portland Oregon
I would check the two front body mounts just under and to the outside of the radiator for looseness, and just plain broken down rubber.

Mine were so bad I figured the whole front clip must have been jiggling around on bumps.

Could have something to do with the broken rad mounts???? :dunno
 

hesutton

The Anti-Anderson
Supporting Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Posts
8,200
Reaction score
738
Location
Bowling Green, KY
If you've dropped a valve or two, have had hydrolocking, and fuel in the oil pan.......... It's time to pull the motor and completly go through it.......i.e. a rebuild.
The hydrolocking has likely damaged the rod(s), the dropped valves have likely damaged/broken the pistons, and the fuel in the oil has likely damaged the main and rod bearings.

Just my two cents.

Heath
 

Brutis

Work in Progress
Joined
May 26, 2009
Posts
226
Reaction score
1
Location
Niagara, Wisconsin
Yeah, I figured my pistons would be suspect. I actually started disconnecting wires and hoses today. Also pulled rad and fan clutch. I did the same to my parts truck ('94 IDIT). My plan is to swap motors. However, the parts motor sat for about 2-3 years before I bought it (ran when it was parked). What should I do to it before installing? I can turn it over with a socket and breaker bar. Any way to test compression/condition w/o running it?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,376
Posts
1,131,377
Members
24,177
Latest member
RangerDanger

Members online

Top