I screwed up, now no start.

[icanfixall]

If that side cover plate is opened and you crank the engine fuel should flow out of that nicely even if the main shaft is broken. You will need a flashlite and small mirror to see into this cover area easily.

 

[6.9l ford]

If that side cover plate is opened and you crank the engine fuel should flow out of that nicely even if the main shaft is broken. You will need a flashlite and small mirror to see into this cover area easily.

Agreed about fuel, but sense he can't get fuel from the hard lines it sounds like the main shaft is broke and not pumping/ injecting fuel to the injectors?

 

[bbjordan]

Agreed about fuel, but sense he can't get fuel from the hard lines it sounds like the main shaft is broke and not pumping/ injecting fuel to the injectors?

Not necessarily, if the vane pump is gunked up and not developing enough pressure to force the high pressure plungers apart, there will be no fuel to the injectors.

Same deal if the pressure regulator is stuck open.

 

[6.9l ford]

Not necessarily, if the vane pump is gunked up and not developing enough pressure to force the high pressure plungers apart, there will be no fuel to the injectors.

Same deal if the pressure regulator is stuck open.

Right, but if the main shaft is broken from the steel parts expanding faster than the alum case from the hot wvo contacting the steel parts first; the IP is toast and time for a new IP.
For me, removing the fuel screw cover, the little triangle cover on the passenger side of the pump is easier than removing the IP from the engine to check the vane pump.
Wouldn't you say?

 

[bbjordan]

Don't have to pull the whole IP, just the feed line, the little hex screw locking gizmo, and then unscrew the bell cover. The little screen can be checked to see if its gunked up too.

Either way will work. I suppose its easier to remove two little bolts, but it's harder to see if the shaft is turning.
Either way, there'll be a bunch of fuel spilled on the valley pan.

Peace & love.

 

[6.9l ford]

Don't have to pull the whole IP, just the feed line, the little hex screw locking gizmo, and then unscrew the bell cover. The little screen can be checked to see if its gunked up too.

Either way will work. I suppose its easier to remove two little bolts, but it's harder to see if the shaft is turning.
Either way, there'll be a bunch of fuel spilled on the valley pan.

Peace & love.

Right on! Your right about hard to see the shaft. I didn't know you could remove the vane pump that easy. No hard feels meant!

 

[mjs2011]

So I had my brother tow my truck back to my place last night. Before we left, I attempted to check pressure on the filter head, but was using one of the big truck tire gages, and it did not move. I may need to get something smaller to test it.

He pulled me over a mile across town, the whole while it was in gear turning the engine over. That did nothing.

I forgot to look at the fss, so that's my next step, since I don't recall hearing the solenoid engage when I was messing with it earlier.

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[mjs2011]

The FSS and timing advance both make a very distinct click when disconnected. So I can assume the FSS is operating properly? Is there any other reason to remove the top cover to the IP. About the only options I have left are to check the inlet pump for crud, and to check to see if the shaft is broken.

 

[Brad S.]

Have you tried opening all the hard lines to the injectors, then crank it over..???
If you have a electric pump you could use that to push the fuel through the IP.
I assume when the pickup was indoors it got warmed up enough to melt anything,otherwise take the filter off and fill with
some antigel stuff, put it back on and crank it over...???

 

[mjs2011]

Have you tried opening all the hard lines to the injectors, then crank it over..???
If you have a electric pump you could use that to push the fuel through the IP.
I assume when the pickup was indoors it got warmed up enough to melt anything,otherwise take the filter off and fill with
some antigel stuff, put it back on and crank it over...???

I have not yet, I have only opened one injector line at a time, right at the back of the pump, and watched for fuel there. Not a thing was moving. I will try opening all of them, as well as the return line on the top of the IP.

My concern with using the electric pump is running it and the Mech. pump at the same time. Do I need to bypass the Mechanical pump, or can I have both pumps working inline for the time being while I attempt to prime the IP. I have heard that forcing fuel through the mechanical pump can cause diesel to be pushed into the crankcase, saturating the engine oil with diesel.

 

[bbjordan]

Crack the injector lines at the injectors, not the pump.

 

[mjs2011]

I have always done them at the injectors before, I think I just did it at the pump this time to eliminate the variable of plugged hardlines going to the injectors.

I think instead of trying to move lines around, I will just use my WVO system to get clean diesel flowing. Take the line from my wvo tank and put it into a jug of clean diesel, use the electric pump and wvo filter and see if I can get fuel moving that way.

 

[mjs2011]

One last update. I used my electric wvo pump to pump diesel through to the engine. I had excellent flow to the IP, but still nothing was coming out. I cracked every single injector and tried again. Nothing. Not any fuel coming out of the return on the top of the IP either. I fear the worst, but am willing to try anything.

If there anything else I can do? I have not looked for a broken shaft yet, and have not checked the inlet of the IP for gunk.

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[79jasper]

You're 110% sure you have power at the FSV?

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[Wyreth]

I still think it could be as simple as the return checkvalve being fouled. I would pull the top cover and start there. Simply because that's the easiest thing to check, and at this point you're going to have to get deeper into it. That will also give you a pretty good idea of how gummed up the rest of the pump might be.