I screwed up, now no start.

[leswhitt]

Just put it in the tank, it'll mix on it's own.

I've run WMO for close to 35K combined miles and there's been times that my fuel pressure has been lower than I like so I've stopped, added RUG at the gas station, and immediately started driving again. After about 10 minutes, the RUG lowered my viscosity and the fuel pressure returned to normal.

 

[FordGuy100]

That might be a little dangerous. How is he going to mix it. It won't mix just by adding it.

Jumping in the bed

 

[NO_SPRK]

Put a air line in the tank and make it percolate

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[mjs2011]

Well the bad news. Got fuel flowing out, the mech pump is pumping good, I think. Had a good stream of fuel, though there would be some small gaps in fuel flow, so it was not a constant stream, but pretty close. Not sure if thats just how the mech pump is. Anyways. good fuel flow to the IP inlet, but the IP isnt pumping a thing. I opened up one of the hardlines at the IP and nothing there, nor was there anything at the Return port on the top of the IP.

I do have power to the FSS as well as the timing advance. Is there anything I could be missing, or can I assume the worst that My IP is toast? I am fairly certain that it is the factory IP, I can see gray paint on the base of the pump as well as the hardlines. That would be 220k miles.

 

[JSVD]

if you have fuel to the lift pump the last thing you could try is to tow it in gear with your injector lines cracked... I'm not really sure if it'll move the thick oil... but it'll be a lot better than only the starter.

 

[Wyreth]

If you're getting good fuel flow into the pump, but not getting anything out of the IP return line, then that's the first place to look. Without the return freely flowing, your IP is effectively "Off." (there's a video a few pages back that explains why that is)

You said you're getting power to the FSS, if you pull the plug and plug it back in, do you hear it click? If so, then the checkvalve may have gotten fouled or plugged. (which is usually a bad sign, as it's bits of the inside of the pump that end up fouling it.) You can try pulling the return line fitting, and see if you can get it cleaned out from the top. Or if you're feeling pretty savvy, you can pull the top cap, and make sure the valve is free. That would also be a good time to check the FSS visually to make sure the arm moves when you give it +12v.

BE VERY CAREFUL! If you remove the top cover, and don't get the FSS arm in correctly you will have a runaway situation. So have an adequate intake plug handy, or a way to plug the IP's fuel return.

 

[mjs2011]

Is this something the backyard project man like me can take on. I dont have my garage to work anymore, and would be doing this work outside, or else taking it to a mechanic. Is it just a matter of ungunking whatever is in there, or is the process more involved. Also, I did have the return line nipple off and did not see anything. Dribbled a little diesel and had the other guy crank the engine over and got a few tiny bubbles out of the return line port.

 

[Wyreth]

I would totally feel comfortable doing it, but then I am just a little crazy. You need to be the judge of your abilities tho, it's a simple job, but you could get yourself into big trouble if you're not careful.

Watch this: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?66532-Interesting-U-Tube-Video
that's the video I mentioned, around 9:00 to 10:30 is where he goes over the return fitting and case pressure bit.

Then read this: http://oilburners.net/brian/idi/FuelInjectionServicing.htm
That's Mel's fuel system write up. Near the end he goes over the shutoff arm positioning. (note you can use a bent paperclip to help you position the arm as your re-installing the cover)

Once you've looked over the info, then decide if it's something you feel you are up to doing.

 

[mjs2011]

Thanks for linking that info. I will give it a look and see if I can tackle this on my own some time. If I could get her running myself that would be great. College is sucking the funds out of me right now.

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[laserjock]

Shot in the dark, but you might try pulling the IP off and soaking it in diesel or some other pump friendly solvent. If it's toast, I don't think you can hurt it. If it's just gunked up, maybe you will free it up. A good soak in warm solvent might do the trick. Never tried it myself but if I were in your place I'd give it a shot for what it's worth. Mark the IP for timing before you take it off.


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[bbjordan]

Polymerization

Hopefully, you don't have a bad case of polymerization going on there. This is what my IP looked like :

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You could take the back off of the IP and check the vane pump to see if it looks like this:

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If it does, clean it up and put it back together. That will get fuel/ATF/cleaner going through the IP.
With the back cover off, you can also bar the engine over and see if the IP shaft turns. If it doesn't...probably a broken shaft.

Your injectors will probably be gunked up too. If you are getting fuel to the injectors and it still won't start, pull the injectors out and have them pop tested. I tested mine and two of them were so badly gunked up they wouldn't even pop! You can pull them apart and clean them up too.

For the record, I pulled the IP in the pics above completely apart, cleaned it up, put it back together and it ran! So there is hope.

Oh, and when you clean it and put it back together, it has to be super clean. SUPER CLEAN. The tolerances in these pumps are very tight. Don't touch the internal parts with you bare fingers either. Use nitrile gloves.

Good luck.

 

[icanfixall]

Wow is that a gunked up pump. Really great pics showing the transfer pump and vanes too. For this reason is why I wont run wvo. I'm not a lucky guy so you know whats going to happen to my fuel system...

 

[mjs2011]

So here's what I plan to do.

-check the fuel pressure at the filter head to see if my mech. Pump is moving enough fuel.

Does anyone know what that pressure should be?

-listen and feel for the fss to be working with power.

-remove the top cover of the IP to ensure that the shutoff arm is moving.

-remove the return line check valve and ensure that it is opening.

Can anyone think of any other steps I should take?

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[6.9l ford]

On the passenger side of the IP there is a triangle shaped cover, under it is the main shaft & rotor. take the top bolt for the cover out & loosen the bottom to move the cover out of the way.
Some fuel will spill, have a friend turn the engine over with the starter, & if the main shaft doesn't turn it's broke, this will cause the IP not to pump to the injectors.
This happened to mine last winter.

If someone has already posted this idea sorry I missed it reading.
good luck

 

[Wyreth]

-check the fuel pressure at the filter head to see if my mech. Pump is moving enough fuel.

Does anyone know what that pressure should be?

Pressure isn't the issue so much as volume. IIRC normal is one pint out of the schrader valve for 10 seconds of cranking. (you can remove the inner valve, slide a rubber tube over the valve stem drop it in a jar/bowl/jug to test this.)


As far as adding to your list, I think checking for shaft rotation is the only extra thing you can do.