Hypermax Turbo Install

[CampulanceMan]

Hi Everyone, I'm brand new to the forum and pretty new to trucks in general as well. Earlier this year I became the owner of a 1993 F-350 Ambulance with the 7.3 IDI, that has already been converted into a camper. Truck is great with basically no rust (from the desert) and low miles, but it's slooowww. I did some research and decided to go ahead and install a turbo kit, I went with a new Hypermax kit because of the cost and parts/service availability. I'm currently working on the install and have never done something so mechanically involved before so it's a huge learning curve.

One part of the install has me particularly stuck/confused at the moment though. In the instructions Hypermax included there is a section that reads as follows : "If equipped with a fuel return hose facing rearward out of the top fitting of injection pump, remove this hose. Turn fitting 180 degree while holding hex adaptor with wrench. NOTE: Use extreme caution when turning fitting. Turning hex adaptor in aluminum pump hosing will result in thread damage. Remove steel fuel return line and cut bend off. Deburr, clean and reinstall fuel line. Connect new hose and hose clamp supplied". Now turning the fitting 180 degrees was no problem, but that part that says "remove steel fuel return line and cut bend off" - I thought all the return lines were rubber hoses? There are steel, high pressure lines and one of them does connect from the back of the IP to the fuel/water separator, but is that a return line and is it what they are referring to here? I really don't want to start cutting high pressure lines without knowing for sure I'm supposed to. Also the kit doesn't seem to come with a new hose and clamp for this as stated. And if I'm replacing a steel line with a hose, isn't that asking for trouble? If anyone has done this install please let me know how you completed this step! Thanks!

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[CampulanceMan]

Looks like my photo links didn't work in the original post so here are photos of what I'm talking about.

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[Thewespaul]

Welcome to the forum! The steel line you have is the feed, you don’t need to touch that. Judging by the clamps you have the late style return lines with all soft hoses, so ignore the instructions regarding the steel line.

 

[CampulanceMan]

Thank you! I was not looking forward to figuring that out so that's a relief.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Wes is right. the steel return line off of the injector pump was used on earlier trucks. Maybe just on ones with a 6.9, but I'm not sure on that part. I do know that 6.9s did use this steel line.

 

[dgr]

Post lots of pics. We're simple and like pics

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Post lots of pics. We're simple and like pics

Good idea. I've never seen a modern Hypermax turbo.

 

[saburai]

Good idea. I've never seen a modern Hypermax turbo.

Please.
And welcome to the forum!

 

[CampulanceMan]

As requested I'm adding some more photos of this turbocharger install experience. Also another question for everyone regarding a hose that I need to lengthen/reroute and am looking for advice on.

This is what under the hood looked like before I started anything.

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Removed the air cleaner and the valve covers to tighten the head bolts

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Modified the driver's side valve cover

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Got the turbo mount installed, after bending the firewall to fit the down pipes

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Now here's where my question is - can anyone tell me what this hose is for? It's full of coolant, but it doesn't appear to be stock because I don't see it in any other photos of this engine. It looks like it's going to be in the way of the turbo so I'm thinking I'll need to go get a longer hose to replace it with and route it around the turbo. Any reason I shouldn't do that? Or any advice here?

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Thanks everyone. I can't wait to get done with this project and see what kind of performance increases it yields. Before this the ambulance couldn't go faster than 35mph on steep hills because the EGT's were so high. I turned down the fuel on the injection pump twice, but it was still so hot it didn't really help.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

That appears to be some type of aftermarket heater hose control. It comes out in the same place that the 6.9 GPC sits in. You could probably change the location of the outlet and then put a plug in that hole. The coolant usually comse out of a plug that's located on the lower part of the passenger's side head down by the oil dipstick.

 

[gfemling]

Since you mentioned your egt was running high it appears you have boost & egt gauges which is really important with your non-wastegated turbo setup. I have a hyper max on my 6.9 with T-19 manual and with fuel turned up you need to keep an eye on egts- if getting high then time to drop a gear! I eventually went to Hypermax’s intercooler which also helped lots but still need good coolant system.

 

[pastorjeep]

Since both the front and rear heater hose show some type of factory shielding on them it is probably a re-routing by the body installer (for rear heat?) and you will need to re-route for turbo install. As mentioned check passenger's side head and see if a nipple is extending from it right behind the first exhaust port. That is the normal location of the heater hose return. They have routed yours into the water jacket port used on 6.9 (as mentioned) for the gp controller. Get some pics of the passenger's side head and hose routing.

 

[CampulanceMan]

Ok great, I will grab a pic of the passenger side head and post it here.

Side question - the first step to this turbo install was to re-torque the head bolts to 110 ft/lbs. I did that, but am just now reading/learning that when you re-torque something it's apparently recommended that you "crack" loose the bolt first, and then torque it from there. I did not know to do that, so I just went in sequence and cranked each bolt until my wrench clicked. Should I go back, open up the valve covers and take off all of the rocker arms again to crack the head bolts loose and re-torque them at this point? It's really not something I want to do, but am I at high risk of blowing a head gasket if I don't?

 

[Thewespaul]

No youre fine doing it either way, its still better than the 25+ year old torqued gasket. Technically its better to loosen them one at a time but if you were going that far you could lube the washers on all the bolts to get a more accurate torque reading, since the ones inside the cover get oil and the ones outside are rusted from heat over the exhaust ports, but just torqueing them all to 110 is better than nothing.

 

[dgr]

That's a cool heater control valve. If there vacuum was hooked to the fresh air door c control, it would cut off all hot water to the heater core when max ac was on. I think I used one off a ranger or explorer that is plastic and prone to leaking.

Post some pics of the hoses at the heater core. Is there a separate core for the back that is connected to that valve? I'd forego having dual zones to eliminate or move that valve out of the way.