hydroboost or rear disc

[Vegas-Misfit]

hey guys... another question for everyone here... i have a 1986 F250 4x4 with a sterling 10.25 rear end and my brakes are not the greatest. IM going to be upgrading the system some how to get better stopping power. my question for everyone here is should i do a rear disc conversion or upgrade to hydro boost?... i plan on doing both but can only afford 1 for right now so curious what you guys think would be the most beneficial upgrade to do first?... thanks in advance for the help guys

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

i'd do rear disc first. later on i can get a GOOD link that uses e-350 dual piston rear calipers.

on edit: the vac brake system just plain sucks. it is dangerouse. now that i think about it. i would do H-boost first and see where that gets you. it might take away the need for rear disc. just something to consider.

 

[Vegas-Misfit]

thatd be awesome... especially if i can keep my emergency brake... thanks 94... and why is it you would choose discs first?

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

yes, they keep the factory drum and hat parking brake that the van uses. see my edit.

 

[Vegas-Misfit]

so hydro boost first?... and i was told to get all the parts off of a 1990 F-350 or 450... is that correct info?

 

[freebird01]

YES hydroboost first...

i can stop my truck full loaded till the overloads were touching the stops...and pull an 18' 7k car trailer with an idi ext cab F250 4x4 loaded on it with no trailer brakes and it will stop it pretty well.

and my trucks a 2wd CC LB dually

 

[Vegas-Misfit]

alright guys so hydroboost it is... IM looking right around a 500 price tag to do the swap myself... just so i know i order the right parts... i need to get hydroboost parts for a 1990 F350 or 450 with hydroboost correct?... and any advice on what power steering lines i should get?... thanks for the quick replies guys

 

[freebird01]

get the lines for a F-superduty...

i pulled my entire system from a truck in the junkyard....pump..bracket...booster...master...lines....everything

 

[Vegas-Misfit]

i plan on keeping this truck for a while so was just going to get all new parts and does it matter what year f-superduty i get the lines from?... sorry for all the newbie questions

 

[freebird01]

87-91

you may have to move the pin up in the pedal assembly. not sure if there is a difference in height from an 80-86 to an 87-91

 

[riotwarrior]

so hydro boost first?... and i was told to get all the parts off of a 1990 F-350 or 450... is that correct info?

The absolute simplest is HYDRO boost brakes first, this is some simple re and re and some bleeding of brakes.

Remember a properly setup drum system will work well, however if the truck has no load those brakes do little to stop the truck.

Doing a Disc rear setup is more involved and may require machining or custom NON stock parts.

So Hydro then rear disc IMHO

JM2CW

Al

 

[Vegas-Misfit]

sounds good... will be ordering parts by the end of the week hopefully and possibly starting next weekend... whats the estimated time the job will take?

 

[typ4]

also going up one size on the rear wheel cylinders will make a world of difference, especially if you use the hydroboost master. I slotted and used the vac booster master with bigger wheel cyls and it will stop on a dime. IF THE DAMN ADJUSTERS WOULD STAY WORKING.

 

[NO_SPRK]

id like to do hydro boost and maybe throw in a dodge dana 80 with discs or a AAM 11.25 axle w/ disc

 

[icanfixall]

None of the idi equipted trucks were ever an F450.. They were called super duty trucks and they had the hydroboost brake system with the 1 5/16 bore master cylinder. Our oem brake line pressures with the vacuum booster is around 100 lbs.. With the hydroboost assist system that pressure now is around 2200 lbs. So does it increase the braking capability.. Yes. Now don't run off thinking this is the be all to end all.. Your still running the same brake lining.. That has not changed one bit.. But the ability to stopp quicker has mulitiplied greatly. The main issues with our oem brakeing is the rear shoes don't self adjust very well.. So far nobody has been able to fix that.. So whats happening is the front disc is doing all the stopping. Think this may not be true.. Wel next time to roll up to a stop wait for the feeling that the rig is slipping forwards. You fell this and press down more on the brake peddle. So whats going on with that... Well its simple scinece. When the rear shoes get way out of adjustment they require more fluid to fill the brake wheel cylinders to effect stopping.. But they can't with the peddle travel. So the fronts do the stopping. Once stopped the peddle is still trying to fill the rears... So the peddle drops and you begin to slip forwards... The feeling is like you let off the brake peddle a little. Still don't believe this.. Well tell me how far down the parking brake peddle needs to go before it holds the rig.. If it more than half way to the floor then your rear drums shoes are way out of adjustment. Still don't feel this is correct.. Do this but do it on a side street when no traffic is around... Apply the parking brake down about 1 or 2 inches. Now test drive the rig... Are you feeling the brake peddle stopping the rig when the peddle is higher up in the travel... Sure you are... So whats the solution to all this... We need to adjust the rear shoes before we loose the rear brakeing. Because I run the hydroboost and the 1 5/16 master cylinder I rarely need to adjust them. I watch the peddle feel and the parking brake position. Hope this clears up some of the problems we have with our brakes.. P.S. When converting to hydroboost is a great idea and a very good reason to replace the rubber brake flex hoses front and back.. Its only three lines but recall the line pressure is going to be doubled. And your going to be bleeding the system anyway... May as well do it once and do it right...