How to relocate fuel filter?

jhenegh

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What do you do with the return line that goes to the fuel filter when you relocate it out of the engine bay? Life would be simpler under the hood without that giant filter bracket behind the alternator, I just don't know the right solution for that return line.

Thanks
 

IDIoit

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i will be running a racor water/fuel separator.
installing it on the fender, most likely running an extra long line to the filter.

kinda curious how other people did this as well.
 

sjwelds

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Thought I read on here that it can be deleted and the line capped off...... dunno
 

mcghan

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on my lil 4x4 i deleted the front tank,installed a 10 micron filter,electric diesel pump,2 micron filter,ran line up to front of engine and teed into return line and then back to tank,thinking about putting coolant filter where fuel filter was,and thinking about relocating batterys under the bed of the truck when spring comes,trying to get a lil wieght off the front
 

HS108

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I too would like to relocate mine, or turn it, as I would like to make a clean shot into my turbo inlet
 

BioFarmer93

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What do you do with the return line that goes to the fuel filter when you relocate it out of the engine bay? Life would be simpler under the hood without that giant filter bracket behind the alternator, I just don't know the right solution for that return line.

Thanks

You could do it like I did in this photo. A short piece of diesel rated fuel hose makes the curve from the OEM return fitting on the top of the IP to the 3/8" hose barb/NPT elbow which screws into a 3/8" female NPT Tee with 1/4" hose barbs screwed into each side. A leaky OEM filter head annoyed me to the point of getting rid of it completely. In its place are now two filters, a Goldenrod waterblock fuel filter and the NAPA coolant filter. The waterblock is actually the second fuel filter, the first one being between the FSV and the Walbro Industrial E-Lift Pump on the frame rail.
You can either cut the steel fuel tube with the fitting on it that screws to the back of the IP and use it to clamp some diesel rated fuel hose on, or buy a new SAE/hose barb elbow to screw in there. Don't try NPT fittings- they'll just ****** up the threads and leak.
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89Laredo

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I think I read somewhere that the IP fitting is a -5 orb.

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jhenegh

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You could do it like I did in this photo. A short piece of diesel rated fuel hose makes the curve from the OEM return fitting on the top of the IP to the 3/8" hose barb/NPT elbow which screws into a 3/8" female NPT Tee with 1/4" hose barbs screwed into each side. A leaky OEM filter head annoyed me to the point of getting rid of it completely. In its place are now two filters, a Goldenrod waterblock fuel filter and the NAPA coolant filter. The waterblock is actually the second fuel filter, the first one being between the FSV and the Walbro Industrial E-Lift Pump on the frame rail.
You can either cut the steel fuel tube with the fitting on it that screws to the back of the IP and use it to clamp some diesel rated fuel hose on, or buy a new SAE/hose barb elbow to screw in there. Don't try NPT fittings- they'll just ****** up the threads and leak.
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That may be the ticket!

I already made a rubber fuel line from filter to IP with ORB fittings as @89Laredo mentioned. I ditched the steel hardline from filter to IP to the tune of about $25

Thanks!
 

no mufflers

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here is my setup, I bent all the lines and used 3/8 steel tube. the fittings that I used came from an early 7.3 PSD. the pictures weren't meant for the fuel filter.


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