How "HIGH" should the high idle be at initial startup?

[justinray]

You will not burn up the solenoid by not tapping the throttle. As long as the metal plunger is in the center of the coil of the solenoid, it will be fine. It will not hurt it to be pushing on the throttle, but not being able to physically move it.

Which brings up a question on the original post that started this thread; From his description, he starts the engine normally, it idles normally, and then revs up to 2100rpm. How can that be? We all know the solenoid doesn't have enough power to open the throttle by itself. So why is the engine rpm flaring up on it's own?

I also believe the best way to set the high idle speed would be with the engine fully warmed up. The initial rpm is drastically affected by the temperature and the viscosity of the oil you are using. I don't have mine hooked up, but I can hold my foot steady on the throttle, and as the engine runs for a few minutes, it's going faster and faster at a gradual rate as the oil and everything else warms up.

Maybe someone replaced the solenoid with a doorlock solenoid or something similar?

 

[whalebus]

No, its the coolant temp sensor, and a little solenoid like power door locks use.

So what do you do if you are using an after market sender and gauge in place of the stock sensorbe hind the A/C compressor?

 

[franklin2]

So what do you do if you are using an after market sender and gauge in place of the stock sensorbe hind the A/C compressor?

Aftermarket senders for gauges do not affect this circuit. Your engine has 3 sensors in the water jacket at various places on the engine. The overtemp sensor that turns the "engine" light on and pegs the gauge is on the far driver's side front corner of the engine on the cylinder head. The sensor that actually makes the temp gauge read is a few inches toward the center of the engine from the over temp sensor.

The sensor that controls the fast idle and the cold timing advance on the pump is located way down in behind the alternator on top of the engine(if you have a v-belt engine with the alternator on the pass side front).

Here's a picture of the fast idle sensor.

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[blakpete91]

Wow this forum rocks! Lots of good info posted on this thread. I guess I should be more specific when I say it just starts to high idle. It actually does it only when i tap on the gas pedal and not randomly. I just need to get out there and adjust it. I have no idea why it is way out of adjustment tho. I'll try to post a video tomorrow

 

[fx4wannabe]

Digging this up instead of posting a new one. When the high idle is off should there be a gap between the plunger and the throttle arm or should it be touching if adjusted correctly. Mine hasn't worked since I put the new pump on and trying to figure out if its and adjust issue or something else.

 

[no mufflers]

I have mine adjusted so I can get the most RPMS on high idle. I have a very small gap between the plunger and the throttle lever, maybe 2 business cards or so.

 

[BioFarmer93]

Amazing. I don't even know where the wire to the cold start is- it was missing from what was left of the harness when I bought the truck.. However, the Baby Moose pump (thanks Mel!) idles the engine at 750 rpm whether it's 22°F or 97°F. I really don't like the idea of a cold engine going over 1000 rpm for a few minutes after starting, especially if it's under 50°F. That may sound like babying too much, but most of know that cold starts concentrate the most wear into the shortest period of time on any engine, let alone these high compression diesels.