HF compression tester fail, some pretty awesome numbers, and a ghostly hiss...

LCAM-01XA

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Our IDI's head gaskets appear to be leaking oil out the corners, so it seemed like a good idea to run a compression test before tearing into the thing - you know, to decide whether this engine is worth saving or whether to rebuild a spare one instead. Out the box the HF tester is a well-documented epic fail when it comes to the 10mm adapter IDIs use, but modifying it BDCarillo-style is easy and quick.

Starting with cylinders 1 and 7 as they are piece of cake to get to, gauge showed about 470-480psi - this was surprisingly high as those were the cylinders leaking oil the worst, but whatevs, fire rings must be doing their job well I guess.

With the easy ones done let's move to cylinder #5 - plug comes out np, adapter drops in and tightens np, hose hooks up np, hit the starter (ignition and fuel off) and all hell breaks loose - gauge needle bounces up to like 150psi but immediately drops to zero, and there is a massive hiss (compression leak) coming out of something there. Pull the works out, turns out the adapter got its valve stuck open - replace valve core, verify it works like it should, drop it in, repeat test, same result. Yet another valve core later, still no change in behavior.

OK, just to confirm the tester went **** we hook it up to cylinder #1 - sure enough, zero compression there, valve in adapter gets stuck open immediately and thus the gauge does not record anything.

Fine, tester is dead, major bummer but it is what it is, some numbers is better than no numbers at all. Drop all plugs back in, crank engine again with no fuel, and wouldn't you know, the compression leak hiss is still there!!! *** - aight, pull the plugs again, clean them nice and good, blue loctite on the threads just in case (gotta pull them with the engine hot next time, no biggie), wait a few hours, hit the starter again, SOB the hiss is still there!!! Sounds exactly like what you'd hear if you crank the engine with a plug removed, except all plugs are in and now obviously sealed extra tight.

At this point it's decided that the engine will be started anyways, if it goes **** then so be it - reasoning being the noise wasn't there before the HF tester failed, and there's nothing to a compression test that could cause permanent damage to the engine, so once the engine is running the hiss will surely go away, right? Yeah right - instant light-off after a 10-second glow cycle, the hiss was still there and clearly heard over the clattering of the engine courtesy of the cold advance. Then, after well over a minute pf high idle, IT WENT AWAY! No huffing thru the intake, no hissing, just decent amount of blowby coming thru the CDR but that's normal for this particular engine. 3/4" radiator hose used as a stethoscope with one end near the intake inlet (no air box) and the other against the ear shows nothing but normal whooshing sound of air rushing down the runners. Put air box on, filter in it, drop the top lid and engine vacuum immediately sucks it down tight against the air box - all air noises get much quieter, and of course till no huff or hiss to be heard... Engine got revved to the governor and nothing flew apart, seems like she's all ready and reporting for duty.

So, what do ya'll think happened there? What was that compression leak hiss, and why did it go away shortly while running the engine at high idle? Obviously the HF tester is getting returned, no point in having money tied into the POS if it won't stay working properly even for a single engine's worth of cylinders testing...
 

IDIoit

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perhaps a dirty lifter that wouldnt pump up and a secondary issue of a valve hangin?
odd for sure.
but thats the only thing i can think of.

this is another reason i preach for cylinder leak down tests only.

an engine is built to a desired compression, its gonna have what its gonna have, depending on the many many factors that we all know about(and if you dont, google it)
but what pressure a cylinder creates is all that its gonna tell you.

if im going to pull the GP, and insert a fitting, i may as well hook up a leak down tester to it.
with each cylinder at BDC, both valves closed.
people say "well, ill pull my rocker arms off so that the valves will be closed"
but your engine does not operate without cam specs!

sorry if i got off task,
but a leak down will tell you much more than i ever could
 

LCAM-01XA

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Yeah leakdown test will probably be next. A valve hanging open would have made for some interesting sounds when the piston came up for TDC, no? Unless it was just some carbon buildup that got knocked loose temporarily and eventually ejected thru the exhaust. Either way the heads will be coming off, that oil leak is getting super annoying. You can actually see oily bubbles out the front right corner of the engine, that's why at first we thought it's a compression leak but then the cooling system doesn't over-pressurize, so who knows... Gotta say it was a pleasant surprise to see those two cylinders get such high compression tho, expected way less based on how she's been running lately. In any case she's got one more load to haul soon, after that she can be torn down and worked on. Just wanna make sure she's not gonna do something stupid on that last run - reduced power is acceptable, rod thru the block eh not so much LOL
 

IDIoit

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it only takes tens of thousandths of an inch for air to find a way to escape, esp. at 500 psi lol
carbon would be a good guess too,
good luck on the haul, i hope shell be nice.

if a connecting rod was about to stop by with a bottle of jack, you should be able to hear signs from a mile away.
ive blown up many a gassers, and i always new that if i beat it, she will come apart.
most of the times she did LOL

my old 6.9 would knock like no tomorrow.
but she held. even after the vicious beating i gave her.
 

BDCarrillo

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Curious that the valve core failed in the fitting... That's a real bummer. Could it have had issues sealing to the cylinder head?
 

texcl

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I went through a couple HF compression testers until I got one that worked fine. Once you get one without QC problems they tend to hold ok, at least mine did.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Yeah not sure why the valve keeps getting messed up, it could have been an issue of some soot getting blown up from the precup, I'll take it apart again and see what I find out. I wouldn't think it has troubles sealing to the head, as that plug hole looked exactly like the others and got blow with compressed air numerous times, but who knows...

The she-devil actually had an interesting idea last night, about completely gutting the 10mm adapter from its valve core and all, and instead running a 1000 psi check-valve on the other end of the hose, up by the gauge. Which would solve all the sooting issues that may be present, and would work very well, however the air bleed valve is part of the hose assembly and cannot be separated from it - meaning the check-valve will have to go after it, at which point any air pressure building up in the gauge has no way of being released. Unless a manual bleeder is added, into which we'll look later tonight...

Engine definitely does not sound like it's gonna fly apart, it's got the normal injectors/IP tick and the valvetrain clatter and maybe an exhaust leak or two so not quiet by any means, but she's been like that for years now and has seen thousands upon thousands of trouble-free miles. Great oil pressure as well. So I kinda doubt there is actual need to tear her apart, it's just that oil leak is not very confidence-inspiring, plus we'd like to know what the inside of the cylinders look like as we got a Banks turbo setup to go in eventually.

About the leakdown tester, how do we hook one up to an IDI? Most kits seem to come with several spark plug hole adapters, which obviously won't work in this application...
 

texcl

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my first one the release valve locked and wouldn't release the pressure, made getting it off interesting. The good thing is they usually break right away, lol . As for the engine valves hissing, never had that happen, hope it all ends well for ya.
 

BDCarrillo

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You really have to whack the pressure release valve... Pushing with your finger won't work.

The 1000 psi one way valve would work anywhere... Just loosen it slightly to bleed off pressure
 

LCAM-01XA

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Lol, yeah, I guess it can always be unscrewed a bit to air out, not the cleanest solution to the problem but if it's cheap, simple and it works, why not...
 

riotwarrior

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I forget whete I ordered my adapter but it has female fitting like a glowplug adapter for comp tester and a male fittjng to fit the leakdown....

Just saing adapthers are out there and the fact yer only dealing with 100 psi you coiluld make an adapter hose simple nuff...

JM2CW
 

LCAM-01XA

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If you can jog your memory some and come up with the source for said adapter, that would be pretty darn cool - proceed to bang head into wall till that happens :D

I was actually thinking of fixing up the HF comp tester in a manner to utilize its adapter and hose for the leakdown tester as well. Leakdown actually runs at pretty low pressures, its input should be capped at 100 psi but its regulator only fills the cylinder to like 15 psi (I guess to avoid blowing gaskets and oil caps in case of severe cylinder leaks) so just about any contraption will work for that.
 

TahoeTom

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Glow plug threads are 10x1.00 metric. 1/8 NPT thread is pretty close, so a metric die ran over a 1/8 brass pipe fitting will get you the head side of an adapter.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Glow plug threads are 10x1.00 metric. 1/8 NPT thread is pretty close, so a metric die ran over a 1/8 brass pipe fitting will get you the head side of an adapter.
Yes this is true, however there is still the problem of the adapter sealing to the head. The glowplugs do that with their nose cones, any NPT fitting by default doesn't have such a thing as it relies on interference thread to seal - once the thread has been changed to non-interference, how is the seal accomplished?
 

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