Help with replacing ball joints...

riotwarrior

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Can someone please explain to me step by step what I need to do next. I have my caliper off and disconnected the tie rod from the steering knuckle. I think I need to take apart the hub assembley to get the rotor off? (I have manual locking hubs) Will I need a special tool to get the hub assembley off? From there what do I do next? Thanks guys. Any pictures or links to any special tools I will need would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks i appreciate your run down. I think the newer super dutys have like 4 bolts that hold the hub on i didnt kno if this wud b similar.
Damn it...

Again posting without all the damn info...I'm going off yer 94 truck so how the hell should I know it's different! ;Poke LOL

Seriously post more details of what your doing, then we can respond with correct info, this is a pet peive of mine as I hate putting out incorrect information.

JM2CW

Al
 

HammerDown

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About replacing the u joints when your in that deep. Think about going back in that deep again in a year or so.. Would you do it willingly or scream about having to dive back in... Also think about how easy it will be because you used anti sieze on all the threaded parts. So to advise wether to do it or skip it... Thats up to you and your time. Some od us love digging into these rigs no matter whats going on.. They are so simple to fix.. But the extremely cold or hot weather can make you hate looking at the trucks...
Best line...EVER, and so very true! :D
 

94250turbo

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Does anyone have the torque specs for the hub nuts? I have everything put back together i jus need to regrease all my bearings nd torque these hub nuts down.
 

94250turbo

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Ok during the test drive I noticed the wheel does not really want to return itself to the center. What could cause this? I know I need to take it to a shop because I can tell the alignments off. Also I noticed if I cut the wheel either left or right as far as it can go while keeping the truck stationary the brake pedal becomes very hard to push down??

**UPDATE** I just read that moog ball joints (what I installed) have a bad reputation for being TOO stiff! After the ball joint install when I turned my wheel all the way to the left I heard a pop and now I don't here any popping noise. Idk if I should give them time to break in or go back to the drawing board??
 
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MUDKICKR

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maybe taking it to someone that has a good idea of how to repair the vehicle would be a good idea? also i have installed prob hundreds of ball joints, and have never had a problem with moog ball joints being to "stiff". i would recommend taking it to a repair facility that can repair your truck for you.
 

94250turbo

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maybe taking it to someone that has a good idea of how to repair the vehicle would be a good idea? also i have installed prob hundreds of ball joints, and have never had a problem with moog ball joints being to "stiff". i would recommend taking it to a repair facility that can repair your truck for you.

I can tell what your implying and trying to say I did it wrong..... Im not saying that "for sure" that is my issue but I just read on a bunch of forums where guys were complaining about there moog ball joints being to stiff. I wish I would have seen that before I bought the ball joints. Does the steering wheel not coming back on its own sound like an alignment issue possibly? Idk maybe ill break down and take it to a shop. I just know I would not have felt good unless I tried it myself lol. At least I know the hub assembly like the back of my hand lol.
 
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LCAM-01XA

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At least I know the hub assembly like the back of my hand lol.
Which is more that many people who have been driving these trucks for years can say. Knowing what keeps your vehicle right side up is a very good thing IMHO.

Moogs are good. People who complain about them being too stiff either have lousy steering pumps, or forgot to grease them, or are just whiners who are never satisfied. I also like McQuay-Norris, I call them Chuck Norris part cause of hoh strong they have've held up for me. Those are also pretty stiff to move by hand. IMHO if a ball joint requires anything less than a small deadblow hammer or a cheater pipe to make the stud move around, they are too loose and will wear out fast.

Alignment can cause poor return to center, yes. In particular, too little caster will do it. You probably altered caster and camber when you replaced the uppers, pretty normal situation actually. Take it to alignment shop for that, and while there have them look at your work to see if they can find a problem somewhere.

The pop you heard could have been the upper ball joint grease fitting breaking off and departing when axle shaft yoke got against it. Not unusual, there is very little clearance there. Some folks only put grease fittings (the right angle kind) one when they wanna grease the ball joints, when they're done and ready to drive the truck they pull fittings off again and replace them with the solid caps cause of how low they are and the space they provide for axle shaft yokes.

While holding steering wheel at full lock you're forcing the steering pump to work harder (and enter bypass mode as well), which slows engine down some. If you're hydroboosted that could affect your brake assist. Alternatively, if the vac pump is about to go, or you have a vacuum leak somewhere, same effect can be observed.
 

fordf350man

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just my 2 cents, i have had bad experience with moog ball joints on my dakota, went through many of them using the warranty got sick of it and bought autozone ball joints and never had a problem 2 years later i sold it with the same ball joints still were fine, even took the truck off road very often, dont know how moogs are on our trucks but i wont buy them again because of what happened to me
 

94250turbo

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Which is more that many people who have been driving these trucks for years can say. Knowing what keeps your vehicle right side up is a very good thing IMHO.

Moogs are good. People who complain about them being too stiff either have lousy steering pumps, or forgot to grease them, or are just whiners who are never satisfied. I also like McQuay-Norris, I call them Chuck Norris part cause of hoh strong they have've held up for me. Those are also pretty stiff to move by hand. IMHO if a ball joint requires anything less than a small deadblow hammer or a cheater pipe to make the stud move around, they are too loose and will wear out fast.

Alignment can cause poor return to center, yes. In particular, too little caster will do it. You probably altered caster and camber when you replaced the uppers, pretty normal situation actually. Take it to alignment shop for that, and while there have them look at your work to see if they can find a problem somewhere.

The pop you heard could have been the upper ball joint grease fitting breaking off and departing when axle shaft yoke got against it. Not unusual, there is very little clearance there. Some folks only put grease fittings (the right angle kind) one when they wanna grease the ball joints, when they're done and ready to drive the truck they pull fittings off again and replace them with the solid caps cause of how low they are and the space they provide for axle shaft yokes.

While holding steering wheel at full lock you're forcing the steering pump to work harder (and enter bypass mode as well), which slows engine down some. If you're hydroboosted that could affect your brake assist. Alternatively, if the vac pump is about to go, or you have a vacuum leak somewhere, same effect can be observed.

Thanks for your input on the situation. When i did the upper there was a little metal insert that i took out nd put back in. I wonder if that knocked my alignment off? I think i will take ur advice nd have it aligned nd ask for them to check my work.
 

LCAM-01XA

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fordf350man said:
just my 2 cents, i have had bad experience with moog ball joints on my dakota, went through many of them using the warranty got sick of it and bought autozone ball joints and never had a problem 2 years later i sold it with the same ball joints still were fine, even took the truck off road very often, dont know how moogs are on our trucks but i wont buy them again because of what happened to me
Aye, the Duralasts used to e good indeed. However in the last year or so my experience w/ them has been less than positive. To put it bluntly, now I stay da fuq away from dem things. So now it's only Moog for me. Well, assuming Chuck Norris parts are not available.

94250turbo said:
Thanks for your input on the situation. When i did the upper there was a little metal insert that i took out nd put back in. I wonder if that knocked my alignment off? I think i will take ur advice nd have it aligned nd ask for them to check my work.
Affirmative. That insert's hole where ball joint stud goes thru is not in the center of the insert, instead it's offset to the side. As you rotate the insert (before you clamp it down good) the upper ball joint will "walk" around, thus changing the angles of the steering knuckle w/ respect to axle. This changes your caster and camber angles. If you marked how the insert was positioned initially, and you reinstalled it the exact same way, then your alignment should be the same as before. But I gather you didn't quite do that? No biggie, there's no guarantee the settings were right to begin with.
 

94250turbo

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Ok well i took the truck to the alignment shop and the truck drove great... For a bit. Randomy my steering wheel tightens up and when i turn i will hear a popping noise. Now this only happens randomly and i can tell when its gonna happen becuz of how my wheel tightens up. Is this a bad gearbox?
 

LCAM-01XA

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Does this happen at the same angle of the steering wheel? Was it happening before you replaced the ball joints? Almost sounds like you left the hubs locked in and one of your U-joints is binding... Wheels off the ground turning wheel lock to lock, does it happen then also? Or just while driving?
 

94250turbo

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Does this happen at the same angle of the steering wheel? Was it happening before you replaced the ball joints? Almost sounds like you left the hubs locked in and one of your U-joints is binding... Wheels off the ground turning wheel lock to lock, does it happen then also? Or just while driving?

I believe this is the noise i heard before i did ball joints. But when i did the 6 o clock nd 12 o clock test my wheel had alot of play. Now its all tight but i hav this random popping issue. My hubs r unlocked also. If i jack it up and it dosent do it will that tell me nething?
 
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