HELP Glow Plug System

tgomes

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So I replaced all 8 gps with beru. Brand New Controller/Relay behind the intake and Brand New Harness. Still a pain to start in the cold. Turn the key on and no noise for about 12 seconds ish and then the relay starts clicking. Truck takes about 3 or 4 tries to get it up and running.
 

BrianX128

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Any air leaks into the system/ leaking injector return caps or lines? Does it start immediately if plugged in?
 

sgallaty

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Your sequence should be -

Wait light comes on
some time passes
clicking sound (that's the relay cutting in and out keeping the plugs hot)
eventually, the clicking will stop and your GPC will stop cooking the Glowplugs.

When it does start, is there smoke? Does it lope like it's running on a few cylinders and then smooths out?

Lots of people know what they are doing here more than I do but if there's smoke it's probably intake issues, if not - could be fuel delivery issues. Can't smoke without fuel.

When it doesn't start does it try to start, or does it do nothing? If nothing, that's no fuel assuming GP are hot. If you have fuel and bad air mix you'll get smoke.

I don't know how to check your injector pressure and IP output but that would be my next diagnostic check. Your GPC sounds to me like it's making the sounds it should make when it works.
 

OLDBULL8

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So I replaced all 8 gps with beru. Brand New Controller/Relay behind the intake and Brand New Harness. Still a pain to start in the cold. Turn the key on and no noise for about 12 seconds ish and then the relay starts clicking. Truck takes about 3 or 4 tries to get it up and running.

That is about the length of time the GP's cycle as cold as it's been in your location. from what your saying, your GP system is working correctly.

The batteries have to be up to ***** to turn the engine over at least 100 to 150 RPM. I would suggest you clean the battery posts and make sure they have a good connection, also the Neg. cable connection on/at the engine.
 

icanfixall

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Sounds like a fuel leak down issue. You mentioned all the harness, plugs and controller are new. Only thing left in the glow plug system is the main engine wire harness plug. Might open that and see if any corrosion is in there. Than plug can corrode. Then it gets hot trying to pass enough power to to controller. It can melt or worse. Catch fire. Many trucks have burned down because of this bad engineering issue. Try starting the engine. Then feel this plug. If its hot then you need to clean it. The connected together yellow wires are the controller power. Its a cheap engineering deal to make 2 wires carry the power that one large wire can safely carry. Its cheap. Some members have changed this 2 wire mess to one large 6 gauge wire and run it directly from the controller to the fender mounted solenoid. Only reason for that engine wire harness plug is for ease of changing engines. How often do we do this. I just cut off the yellow wire ends and ran the 6 gauge wire along the same path. Now I have direct power to the controller. Now a word of caution. This is a hot always wire just like the alternator heavy wire. Be careful working round this because you have about 1800 to 2000 amps ready to melt anything it accidently touches. Best to lift the battery positives or the fire and sparks may happen.
 

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