Help a newb.

[nsjames]

I am a complete newbie to diesels and IDI motors.

I am very much contemplating buying a used Uhaul with 250K miles on the clock. It's a 1989 S1600 with the 7.3L motor and a spicer 5 spd.

I want to load my Jeep in the back and haul it around and get decent mileage. Guys that have done it say they get 10 MPG loaded or empty.

I read the buying one thread in the FAQs but still have some questions.

The one I'm intresetd in says it's had the clutch replaced in the last 40K miles. Whta kind of life can be expected from it?
What kind of power does this motor make? I know it's going to be slow, I can live with cruising at 60 all day, I'd like it not to drop below 45 on the long grades.
The 7.3 seems stupid simple to maintain and repair, so not too many questions on that.
What's the RPM redline? I was going to put a tach in it, along with a pyro and proper water temp/oil pressure guages. Is a fuel pressure gauge something worth considering as well?
What's the best cruising RPM for fuel consumption. Truck has 4.33 gears and 225 19.5 tires.

Thankfully Uhaul ordered these things with hydroboost and discs at all 4 corners, so aside from generally just looking it over any hydroboost tips? Super secret places to check for leaking fluid?

Are there any strange differences between the ford IDI and the IH one? Special parts that are IH specific?
Thanks for any tips/tricks so I don't screw this all up and my wife gives me that look.

 

[nsjames]

and a followup

I know that the IDI motors were known for the ability to run other things. I have used oil/and access to a bars fry oil, I would like to use it to offset the costs of the diesel when we go wheeling.
Opinions? Do I need to preheat it or just mix is 60/40 with the diesel in the tank after it's been filtered? I'm really not trying to get into bio diesel production, just have some filtered oil in a transfer tank to add when I fuel up. I am aware of the taxation issues and can fill out the appropriate paperwork.

 

[icanfixall]

First of al do you live in California... If you do do not buy the rig... That size truck is going to have some EPA requirements to meet very soon. This size of a weight carrying truck has probaly a set of 5.13 gears or lower in it... Thats why they get the same fuel mileage mt or loaded... Nothing to can do about it because there are no gear sets like 4.10 or 3.55 available... And thats too bad... They make a great hauling rig. Adding a turbo to it will give you better mileage too. More air equals more fuel but.... Less throttle used to get down the road.... The 250,000 miles is getting to the middle of the useable life of the engine but these engines can go much farther with average care. This truck is not a pickup truck body and frame... Its a business class truck with a straight axle up front and medium duty setups everywhere. The tires are probably 19.5 and that a good thing... Towcat will chime in with more information about these trucks... He has several of these size trucks on a tow business...

 

[nsjames]

truck has 4.33 gears
I m aware that this is a full on MDT truck.
They have G rated 225 series 19.5 tires.

My situation is this:
I currently borrow a trailer and truck, I was given the go ahead to buy a trailer, which would stil leave me borrowing a truck. I can score this F700 for what a trailer would cost me and solve all of my problems.

I know that insurance will be more, but that's not such a big deal when I can load it up anytime I want and go wheeling, and not have to drop off cars and pick up trucks and a whole bunch of crap. Not to mention that I'm towing nearly 7K lbs behind a light duty 1500 with GM's 4.8. I'd like to step up to MDT and just not worry about weight or brakes or anything else, just load my Jeep and go wheeling.

Here's what I hpoe to be stuffing in the back of this thing. About 4K pounds worth of jeep.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[icanfixall]

Sounds like your going ahead with the purchase... About the 4.33 gears... Be sure of that... All my information tells me the 5.13 is the lowest you can use in that differancial....

 

[nsjames]

I can assure you I'm not breaking new ground on this.
Here's a fw that have been done before:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=691445&highlight=uhaul

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=480067

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=487272

All of the Ex u haul trucks seem to have 4.33's, I assume that U haul special ordered it, just like the frame is different (lower) than al of the other cab and chassis F700.

Here's the drivetrain section from the Uhaul for sale ad:

Engine: V-8 7.3 liter/ Diesel
Transmission: 5 Speed standard, Spicer CM4054A with Power Take Off Access
Differential & gear ratio: Spicer 4.33
Fuel tank capacity: 50 gal

 

[Dieselcrawler]

so answer the question botut hing being different, the exhaust manifolds, oil cooler and filter, the flywheel and bellhousing adapter, the waterpump, injection pump, and a few other small things. the injection pump is only ratted for 2700 rpm in the medium duty setup. installing a IP out of a ford will bump the redline up to 3300 or so.

 

[nsjames]

so answer the question botut hing being different, the exhaust manifolds, oil cooler and filter, the flywheel and bellhousing adapter, the waterpump, injection pump, and a few other small things. the injection pump is only ratted for 2700 rpm in the medium duty setup. installing a IP out of a ford will bump the redline up to 3300 or so.

sweet, that's the kind of list I needed. So injection parts and injectors are interchangeable? Can I order a rebuilt ford pump and install it? An extra 600 rpm might make 70 possible.

 

[icanfixall]

Yes... You can buy a pump from Ford but don't do that.... We have a member here named agnem... He can set you up with a stock or built pump that just can'r be beat anywhere. The pumps are called Mose Pumps... The baby Moose is a stock rebuild but its far superior than any stock pump on the market... Now the Moose Pump is a highly modified pump that will kick the dust off these engines. They do require a turbo and intercooler to get the most out of them. PM him and ask about them.. I have owned two of the Moose Pumps... They are a great upgrade to these idi engines... Not really expensive either... In fact I'll bet the pump you buy from Ford will be more expansive than the Moose pump...

 

[nsjames]

I think I'll stick with the stock replacement. I don't have any aspirations of turboing a motor with 220K miles on it. I'd just like it to be reliable and get the best economy possible.

OK, so after purchase I'd like to bang out the injection maintenance and I found the FAQ to do that. Is there a lift pump of some sort? Mechanical? The Ford trucks seem to have electric in tank pumps or have I got that wrong? Anyway I can't see replacing the IP and then leaving the fuel delivery pump old.

 

[jonathan]

yes there fuel pump is on the passenger front part of the block.

 

[reklund]

I think I'll stick with the stock replacement. I don't have any aspirations of turboing a motor with 220K miles on it. I'd just like it to be reliable and get the best economy possible.

OK, so after purchase I'd like to bang out the injection maintenance and I found the FAQ to do that. Is there a lift pump of some sort? Mechanical? The Ford trucks seem to have electric in tank pumps or have I got that wrong? Anyway I can't see replacing the IP and then leaving the fuel delivery pump old.

I wouldn't be afraid of putting a turbo on that engine. In my opinion, a good turbo setup is all it takes it go from miserable to enjoyable driving one of these old trucks. The beauty of the medium-duty setup is that you'll have plenty of room to add the turbo and not fight the issues most of us have in the pickups. I'd stick a pickup calibrated pump and injectors on it, turbo it, and never look back. You'll have a little more RPM range and enough more power that it'll be tolerable on the long grades on the highway.

Oh, and I'd gut the cab and spend a weekend sound-deadening it. Those medium duty trucks didn't have much for creature-comforts!

Ryan

 

[icanfixall]

I definantly would turbo that engine... Moose pump it or Baby Moose it with a set of Bb code new injectors... Not THE "G" CODE INJECTORS... Thats are only good for emmissions standards... They make less power than any others... About sound proofing the cab... Get some Fat Mat... Its just like Dynomat and a lot cheaper. One roll will cover the cab with two layers easily. Do the roof and the back wall too. I did my dors too but I don't think your rig can be done like mine... I have a door panel that comes off. You could install the sound proofing inside the doors too. Probablt be easier to spray in a bed liner kind of material or undercoating too. If you have lots of air and road noise getting in thru the weatherstrip just install some 3/16 inch tygon tubing found at Home Depot inside the weatherstrip.... Work great on old stripping...

 

[nsjames]

Oh, and I'd gut the cab and spend a weekend sound-deadening it. Those medium duty trucks didn't have much for creature-comforts!

Ryan

I used to drive the Jeep to the trails. 8 hours in a standard cab pickup with no interior on bias ply super swampers. The cab of a MDT will be blissful compared to that.


That's a good tip on the tygon tubing fixall, a nice simple and cheap way to give some "spring" back to the rubber door seals.

 

[nsjames]

OK, So I contacted a member here about an F250 7.3 IP. It will just bolt in right?
I'd really like to pickup another 600 RPM so this thing might actually do 70.