This comes up enough. Could you post the ARP Pn's and quantities? Maybe we can get a Mod to drop the info in a Faq thread or in the parts Bin if it's not there already.
Head Studs
- Thread starter USNENFTS
- Start date
This comes up enough. Could you post the ARP Pn's and quantities? Maybe we can get a Mod to drop the info in a Faq thread or in the parts Bin if it's not there already.
I have read the posts about using these and are aware of it. I thank you for the information 
Studs- AR7.00-LB- (34ea)
Washers- ARW78N- (34ea)
Nuts- ARN12-1- (34ea)
The nuts are the 12 point when I get mine I will post the p/n for those as well
Washers- ARW78N- (34ea)
Nuts- ARN12-1- (34ea)
The nuts are the 12 point when I get mine I will post the p/n for those as well
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
Wow excellent price! Thanks for posting part #'s. Can't beat that price
G. Mann
Full Access Member
I just today received the ARP stud set I ordered from AllensFasteners at $475.00...
They are specific according to the box and ARP listing for 88 to 94 7.3 engine. Looks like I paid a bit more for that feature. Looking at them, they sure look good, came with the little tube of special "ARP" lube and instructions.... I wonder if the lube goes on the studs or my ass after paying for them though?
Based on the earlier post I measured the studs I just got.. They measure 6 3/4 in. , came with 12 point nuts and the "special washers".
So... are the 7 inch studs rated for the same strength? Seems like, for $100 less and 1/4 inch more stud, it's the better deal if they are..
Question to those who have used them, no clearance issues? Or, just need an extra deep 12 point socket to torque them?
They are specific according to the box and ARP listing for 88 to 94 7.3 engine. Looks like I paid a bit more for that feature. Looking at them, they sure look good, came with the little tube of special "ARP" lube and instructions.... I wonder if the lube goes on the studs or my ass after paying for them though?
Based on the earlier post I measured the studs I just got.. They measure 6 3/4 in. , came with 12 point nuts and the "special washers".
So... are the 7 inch studs rated for the same strength? Seems like, for $100 less and 1/4 inch more stud, it's the better deal if they are..
Question to those who have used them, no clearance issues? Or, just need an extra deep 12 point socket to torque them?
Last edited:
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
I felt an extra deep socket was needed but I used my craftsman deep socket. It started to round off the very top thread on the stud. As for fit of the longer stud thats not an issue. They fit fine. Russ and I are the ones that found this out. both sets are the same strength too. 200,00 lbs psi breaking strength. A new stock head bolt breaks at 154,000 lbs psi. I had one tested to breaking strength. I have not tried a 6.9 head bolt but I know it will be less because its a 7/16 diameter bolt compared to the 7.3 bolt at 1/2 inch.
Hydro-idi
Full Access Member
I am really curious to find out what the breaking point is with the stock 6.9 bolts. I have lots of bolts that are in excellent shape. A few of the bolts came out looking like they were brand new. If you have a way of testing this, I can send them to you if you would like. Don't know how accurate the data would be since they are not brand new though.
USNENFTS
U.S. Navy Engineman
I just got my head studs and injectors today from R&D, can't really beat the price for a good set of head studs.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
The stock head bolts I had tested went to a testing lab in Long Beach Ca. They are known for the work they do for the aerospace community especially NASA. The name was Stork.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1306098-head-bolt-stud-tech-thread.html
The guy at R&D Performance did some testing and posted results on FTE.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Really interesting read over on fte. Because I did not witness these tests nor have I done the same I wont say I agree yes or no to the results. This is the internet after all. I just like doing things myself before I comment on others results
.
.
G. Mann
Full Access Member
I used to do tensile strength testing when I worked for an aerospace company. To yield results you tension the test sample to failure and observe what pressure the material reaches the yield point.
Not practical for used studs, or bolts, I think. It requires the destruction of the test sample, which is taken at random from a production run, where all other samples are made from the same material under the same conditions, such as heat treat, machining or forming processes, etc etc.. Even then, such testing doesn't always cover all things that can happen to the part in actual service.. like improper assembly, over heating, pressure cycles,, etc..
In Aerospace, that problem is covered by over building everything by a minimum factor of 3. So each part is 3 times stronger than it needs to be for the design application.. $$$ is no object of course..
Go safe.. buy new ones, would be my suggestion.
Not practical for used studs, or bolts, I think. It requires the destruction of the test sample, which is taken at random from a production run, where all other samples are made from the same material under the same conditions, such as heat treat, machining or forming processes, etc etc.. Even then, such testing doesn't always cover all things that can happen to the part in actual service.. like improper assembly, over heating, pressure cycles,, etc..
In Aerospace, that problem is covered by over building everything by a minimum factor of 3. So each part is 3 times stronger than it needs to be for the design application.. $$$ is no object of course..
Go safe.. buy new ones, would be my suggestion.
USNENFTS
U.S. Navy Engineman
Should I put anything on the studs when I put them in? I don't have that moly lube, what about Antisieze? I guess it doesn't matter since I probably won't be taking these out ever again.
stealth13777
Full Access Member
I forget the guidance on this from ARP, but if it isn't in your box, on their website they provide instructions that should answer your exact question.
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icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well it was suggested in an early post to make sure you use the ARP Molly lube. Sadly you did not catch that. Now you are on the inclined plane....
Your screwed...
So now you will have to use what ever you can find and use a much higher torque. I recall when I installed my ARP studs I was advised to use the molly lube and 100 lbs torque. Tighten and loosen 5 times to break in the threads and the friction between the nut and the washer. Not using their molly lube I was to reach 130 lbs... So 130 lbs times 34 nuts... Times 5 times. Then follow the torque sequence... Nope I sure did not want that job. Best figure out what you are going to use and the torque needed before you make a mistake of too tight or too loose. Sorry you have this decision to make too but at least you have some idea of whats ahead.
Your screwed...
So now you will have to use what ever you can find and use a much higher torque. I recall when I installed my ARP studs I was advised to use the molly lube and 100 lbs torque. Tighten and loosen 5 times to break in the threads and the friction between the nut and the washer. Not using their molly lube I was to reach 130 lbs...
So 130 lbs times 34 nuts... Times 5 times. Then follow the torque sequence... Nope I sure did not want that job. Best figure out what you are going to use and the torque needed before you make a mistake of too tight or too loose. Sorry you have this decision to make too but at least you have some idea of whats ahead.Similar threads
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