Gutless or just me?

[Cheapthrillb2]

Okay, went back out and it started and idled normal and had the check engine lamp on. Went and drove it and it seemed normal or as it was before other then the constant CEL. However now all my trans shifts are really really firm.

I had installed the sonax spring in the valve body a few weeks ago and it barely made a difference then.

Drove to a buddies to get my little pocket obdII scanner to check the light. On the way back the CEL turned off and it got doggy, couldn't accel. Pulled over and it idled okay but wouldn't rev. So I hooked up the scanner and hit the check codes button and the truck hiccupped and the CEL came on and it was smooth and ran fine again and drive home with no issues.

Once home I hooked the scanner back up with it running and same thing it hiccuped, scanner read no codes while the CEL was on. Tried to do a KOER test and it would not communicate. So I shut it off and did a KOEO test and it came back with

p0120 Throttle pedal position
p0110 IAT sensor Circuit
p0090 Fuel pressure Regulator control

I popped the hood and noticed I had a fuel leak from the line that goes into the fuel control manifold. The line that wraps around under the fuel bowl then to the fuel pump. couldn't tell if it was the line or the seal behind the large snap ring on the manifold.

Right now i have the manifold off so I can try and find those seals tomorrow.

My head hurts from banging it against the wall.
__________________

 

[Cheapthrillb2]

I need to find orings for these parts today.

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[Cheapthrillb2]

Okay update time...

Fixed the fuel leak. Turns out the "known good" IPR was actually a bad IPR. The guy I bought it from realized it afterwards. And my buddy brought the actual "known good" one to me today at my shop which was very cool of him being it is a 25 mile drive from his shop to mine. And I had NOT rewired the IPR wrong.

So I installed the 2nd IPR and all the new problems are now gone. Back to shifting normal and acceling how it was. So more or less I have fixed some wiring, installed sensor, fixed my fuel bowl heater and am now back to where I was a week ago lol.

However, Now when I do the contribution test it fails all 8 cyl's. But now I actually get to perform the buzz test unlike before when it wouldn't even try. But now it goes through the buzz test and I can here all 8 buzz and the only response is the P1298 IDM fault code. As well when I perform the KOER test is only flags the EBV sensor code as well when I do the KOEO test same result with the ebv which I already know I need the back pressure sensor anyways.

So I guess I should get a modd'd IDM as my next step?

 

[Cheapthrillb2]

Okay so drove all around yesterday no new issues, same as was before just gutless.

On the drive in this am, it would intermittently lose power then the CEL would come on and it would hiccup, trans shift hard again, then the light would turn off and back to normal then after a couple miles it would do it again.

got to work and pulled the code and it was an ICP code. Could it be intermittently going out? Also noticed while driving and viewing live data that the map always reads 14-17psi all the time regardless of rpm or boost.

 

[Cheapthrillb2]

Picked up a used IDM that had a matching number as to mine (thanks dumper). Just installed it, ran the inj buzz test prior to install and kept getting the IDM fault, installed the new used and I have ran the inj buzz test 5 times and it has passed everytime. Gonna go out and get it warmed up and run the contribution test (fingers crossed).

Back side of my IDM I removed...

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got it warmed up and ran the contribution test and the test itself was way different then any of the other contribution tests I have run. It was about twice as long and did things differently. But all cyl's now PASSED WOOT.

 

[zpd307]

whats the concensus, does it run better?

 

[Cheapthrillb2]

Maybe, haven't towed yet.

But now I pass the Buzz tests and the contribution tests. So now I feel I am clear to make some upgrades now that the stock stuff is up to par. Looking at some stage 1 injectors and a tuner eventually. And a Trans rebuild.

 

[Cheapthrillb2]

Maybe, haven't towed yet.

But now I pass the Buzz tests and the contribution tests. So now I feel I am clear to make some upgrades now that the stock stuff is up to par. Looking at some stage 1 injectors and a tuner eventually. And a Trans rebuild.

 

[zpd307]

with your scanner, are you able to see your hpop pressures? are they in good shape? an upgrade would be a stock 17 degree or adrenaline pump.... i got a buddy who has a scanner, i want to hook it up to see where i am at with 206k on the clock.... if my 6.0 tranny cooler would ever get here, i am going to put in a 6.0 intercooler at the same time. i had it lying around to put on the 90, which never happened before i sold it.

 

[Cheapthrillb2]

I think it does, what are "normal" readings?

 

[zpd307]

i would have to look those up. i saw a post where 500psi at idle and 2800 psi at wot was fine.

 

[Cheapthrillb2]

I have also noticed that the EBV isn't nearly as bad as it was in the mornings before the IDM replacement. Now the valve just barely restricts flow for about .5 mile unlike before when I couldn't even clear 30mph for almost two miles.

 

[u2slow]

I have also noticed that the EBV isn't nearly as bad as it was in the mornings before the IDM replacement. Now the valve just barely restricts flow for about .5 mile unlike before when I couldn't even clear 30mph for almost two miles.

The EBPV works with the temperature sensor in your stock airbox. It can be converted to manual control to act as a brake. It can also be disconnected or deleted entirely. Bottom line is you have options even if your otherwise-good IDM isn't playing nice with the EBPV.

 

[Cheapthrillb2]

The sensor at the end of the pipe off the right manifold is bad......its stuck showing 50 psi of pressure all the time even with the truck turned off and sitting.

 

[zpd307]

if you want to replace it, tousley ford parts online is the cheapest i have found. everything you would want has been the cheapest. they are fast to ship too! i got a new tube and sensor for $116 shipped.