GRADE 8 BOLT/THREAD DIE ???

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I need to cut extra threads on the unthreaded shank of two coarse 7/16 Grade-8 bolts, reason being I need two axle-flange studs, such that a nut will tighten against the axle-flange, and then a second nut holds the bracket for the Veederoot hubometer.

Can I cut these threads with my plain old run-of-the-mill thread-die kit, or will the material be too hard ??


What if I make these two studs from regular grade bolts, seeing as how the other six will still be the good stuff ??


Opinions and advice please.

Thanks.

 

[Devilish]

I have a Abbot hubometer on my superduty and all the bolts are the same. Are you trying to set up the hubometer so you can remove it without risking any gear oil leakage? If your bracket is anything like mine then you can bolt the bracket to the axle then torque the bolts to spec and afterwards bolt the hubometer to the bracket. That way you don't make a complicated project for yourself.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

The center protrusion of the axle-flanges on my Dana-70 is too close to the 11/16 nuts that hold the cone-washers and flange; there is not enough clearance for a bracket.

I have to mount the bracket on top of the flange nuts, in order to clear that raised center.

Thanks.

 

[Devilish]

So the bolts are have 11/16 heads because they are grade 8s. Both my dually with a D70 and my superduty with D80 use bolts with 5/8 heads. I blooked at the superduty and the bolts didn't have markings on them so I don't even think they are rated grade 5.
So to your original question then. I don't see any issues with using 6 grade 8 and 2 lower grade bolts for your hubometer. I don't know if the bolt is too hard to cut though with standard dies. I would think using bolts and say 1/4 inch spacers would help with the clearance issues. but then the problem is trying to find the spacers. Hmm, certain head bolt washers may work but I can't remember from what. some threaded rod might be all you need. Just cut to length. Since you'll be using grade 8s for the other 6 bolts.

 

[suv7734]

How about replacing two of the existing nuts with coupling nuts like this, cut to an appropriate length to get you the clearance? Mount the bracket to the coupling nuts using regular capscrews and you're done.
Just a thought.

 

[icanfixall]

Why not use grade 8 all thread and grade nuts??? Seems like it would work fine. At least you could just use this where you need it.

 

[69dieselfreak]

Why not use grade 8 all thread and grade nuts??? Seems like it would work fine. At least you could just use this where you need it.

yes this is what id do but this might be a stupid question but why do you need a hubometer
on big trucks i know why u need them

 

[Devilish]

Okay I just got a real good look at the flange on my 87 dually. Keep It Simple Stupid comes to mind for this little project. The step on the flange is minimal so lock washers will take up the difference. So lock washer, then bracket. bolt goes through both then you're done. At most you'd need bolts that are 1/4 inch longer than stock but I'd test the stock bolts first since they go into threads quite a ways.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

This particular rear has studs, instead of bolts, and the axle-flanges also have the split-cone-washers that have matching recesses in the flange.

For now, I cut some appropriate length studs from a 7/16 carriage-bolt.

When I find it, I will replace with Grade-8 all-thread.


The reasons for the hubometer is that these trucks work by the loaded mile ON THE HUB, not what some GPS or Google-map says, so I like to have two witnesses to actual mileage, in case one should fail, as in a speedometer-cable break or the odometer go haywire.

I also have hubometers on the goosenecks.


Thanks.

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

Snip...

I also have hubometers on the goosenecks.


Thanks.

Watch out now!!! I'll bet Mel will have a hubometer on the Moosetail next!

I guess that wouldn't be a half-bad idea, seeing as how the speedo/odo on my 87 does some screwey things at times!

Gary

 

[typ4]

Why not 2 new longer studs from the auto parts, easy fix, grade 8 and any length you want.

BTW the stock bolts are grade 8 and have a longer shoulder to locate the axle, I know the clamping force is what does the work but that shoulder has saved more than one hub by the threads not sawing thru the axle and hub

 

[RLDSL]

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer of the hubometer to see if they offer a mounting kit for your axle?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

Why not 2 new longer studs from the auto parts, easy fix, grade 8 and any length you want.

7/16 seems to be the problem there; plenty of 5/16 and 3/8.

Have you tried contacting the manufacturer of the hubometer to see if they offer a mounting kit for your axle?

That thought hadn't occured to me, but all I find on the sites are for big stuff.


Thanks.


I believe by merely using two lengths of all-thread, and the other six still original, I will be okay.

 

[RLDSL]

That thought hadn't occured to me, but all I find on the sites are for big stuff.


Thanks.


I believe by merely using two lengths of all-thread, and the other six still original, I will be okay.

They sell oodles of those things for local delivery trucks and small busses that would have the same axle you are working with, not to mention all the hot shot rigs, I would be real surprised if they didn't have an installation kit to fit your application

I would be wary of going with all thread. Unless you have found a source for grade 8 threaded rod, you would have lighter duty fasteners on those two , which would require a lighter torque, chances are something would end up getting tweeked in the long run. Not worth the risk.

 

[Agnem]

Watch out now!!! I'll bet Mel will have a hubometer on the Moosetail next!

...

Hmmmm.....