Glow plugs on too long... but not getting too hot?

Macrobb

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OK, so I've got an interesting one here:
In my 93, the glow plugs stay on for a very very long time before cycling. Like, I can turn the key on, hear GPC click on. Wait for 10 seconds, WTS light goes out. GPC still on. Wait for another 30 or so seconds... GPC finally clicks off and that's it. No cycling.

Key off and back on. Does the exact same thing. On the third key cycle(with the GPs finally hot), it'll start cycling off and on.

Now... After a single key-on cycle(~30s), it won't instantly start. If I wait for two key-on cycles, it'll fire right up within 5 revolutions.

I've replaced the actual GPC relay with a new one; with the GPC actuating it, there's about a 0.5V drop across the relay. I think 1.2V from battery to GPC output terminal(including drop across the resistor).

Now, I know all 8 glow plugs are Motorcraft ZD9s, all of them recent. It's done this for a while now, but because it's always worked and fired right up, I haven't worried about it.

I'm trying to figure out what's wrong. It's like... something past the GPC is preventing current from flowing and the GPs aren't getting hot quickly.

Oh, I also checked voltage from block to B- and GP controller ground to B- - less than 0.1V when GPs are on.

Any ideas on what to try?
 

DrCharles

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I have to wonder how much current your GP's are actually drawing. The long heat times (and multiple cycles needed) sure sound like they're not getting hot enough.

Do you have a suitable shunt to measure the actual current draw?
If not, what does your dash voltmeter show while the GP's are heating? Mine goes down near the bottom of the scale arc but not all the way to 8.
 

BrianX128

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Can you hook a higher wattage light or something to the output side of the glow plug relay and make sure it is supplying enough oopmh to the controller and thus to the plugs? Maybe see if your supply wire to the relay/controller is melting. Not really sure but maybe keep tapping a higher wattage test light backwards from the controller/relay area towards the battery and see where you have good power or possibly poor power?
 

MtnHaul

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Why not rig up a manual switch so you can bypass the controller? That would at least let you know if the controller is somehow the culprit.
 
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