glow plug replacement.

phazertwo

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Just about to pull the plugs on my 7.3. I hope that they all come out, but I know they are mixed flavors so my hopes are not too high.

Anyway, I searched for this in the tech section but found nothing. Do I need to anti-seez the treads, or any other coating for that matter?

Also, If you do get a stuck plug, what is the best way to get it out?

PZ

P.S. with all the issues with swelled plugs, I just assumed there was something in the tech section. Maybe time to start one?
 

Matrix37495

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I read somewhere about someone put a drill on a swelled glowplug and sprayed pb blaster on it while spinning it pulling very carefully....
 

phazertwo

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On my new Beru plugs they were already coated.


The old ones all came out with no trouble at all. Not even one was a little swollen!

PZ
 

phazertwo

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Yeah, but I think my GP system have have issues other places too. Still didn't start as easy as I think it should.

PZ
 

mabc926

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If the GP controller is bad I'd just put in a push button, that's what I did on mine and I think it's just fine, but I also have the old style GP system so I don't know how easy a push button would be on the new style.
 

Matrix37495

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Mine started with the new system, but the controller was beyond shot.... terminals pulled out of the sol. housing....

Now it's a starter relay triggered by a switch in the cab...
 

opusd2

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And you always know when they are working as well as how long. That's my setup
 

SLC97SR5

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I replaced my original BERU plugs with BERU's today.
The originals went 112k! I observed a slight decrease in diameter and length of the tips on the old plugs.
3 GP's showed open and one had very high resistance, that's four inoperative plugs and it was manifest by a very quick WTS light (3sec) and difficult starting at 30*.

It starts much better and has a nice long 10-12sec WTS light!

FTR: I coated the threads with Pure Nickle Anti-Seize rated for 2400*F
 

BigRigTech

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I have manual Beru GP's in my truck - one of the best mod's I've done to the truck....Most times 5 seconds is all I need for a cold start and I haven't burned out a GP since I've converted the GP's to manual. If the engine has any heat in it at all GP's are un-necessary. I have a large red light in the dash to warn you when the GP's are on.
 

phazertwo

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I have no interest in manual glow plugs. I am following the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) so that I don't have to teach anyone (including my wife) what to do to drive the truck.

Seems after the plugs have been burned a few times, they are working better. I will have to try them at a lower temp tho.

PZ
 

SLC97SR5

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I have no interest in manual glow plugs. I am following the K.I.S.S. (keep it simple stupid) so that I don't have to teach anyone (including my wife) what to do to drive the truck.

Seems after the plugs have been burned a few times, they are working better. I will have to try them at a lower temp tho.

PZ

Did you ohm out the new plugs to verify they really are good? Remember, you are looking for .5-1.0 ohm for a good plug out of the package. I test mine on the rubber that seperates the radiator from the air intake/grille area. I could not obtain an accurate reading with the GP's installed in the head.

Do you have a solid connection at the bullet/GP interface?

Does the GPR afterburn them, continue to pulse them after starting?

What is your ambient temperature and how long does your WTS light remain illuminated?
 

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