Glow Plug Relay Switch

[fsSnowboard]

Ok, i think i need to buy a new GP relay switch. i found this one http://www.shopdiesel.com/index.cfm/action/productdetail/product_id/475.htm for 116 at shop diesel, but does anyone know of any other place that might have them for a little less? i'm trying to eliminate reasons why my GPs keep going bad. my WTS light stays on for about 20 seconds, and i don't think it should.

 

[The Warden]

$116 is a pretty good price IMHO...I don't think you're going to get any less expensive than that, unless you want to go used.

You can also keep an eye on eBay, but I wouldn't count on it...

 

[Pipeliner_86]

Or....you could go real cheap and wire in a push-button to operate the glow plugs, and by-pass the relay all together. Did to my truck, but thats just me being a cheap skate.

 

[NapaBavarian]

Or....you could go real cheap and wire in a push-button to operate the glow plugs, and by-pass the relay all together. Did to my truck, but thats just me being a cheap skate.

BUt your controller is much less likley to bite the dust

 

[Mont91]

I take it you keep burnig up glow plugs? The GP controller timer is electronic. Have you checked and cleaned all the grounds pertaining to the GPC. The timer works with resistance to ground. If a ground is not perfect it screws up the resistance sensor in the timer. Just because they look good does not mean they are, thoughly clean all grounds and recheck the operation. Also check all power supply connections, both at the controller and fender soliniod. A bad connection here will change the amperage and thus the resistance again screwing with the electronic timer.

 

[Mr_Roboto]

If the controller is the problem, you could always just disconnect the trigger wire (white wire) and wire in a manual pushbutton switch. Better to have to push a button twice a day rather than have the truck not start from burned out plugs.

 

[fsSnowboard]

I checked the ground once already but i'll go ahead and check the electrical connections again. i'll also think over installing a push button. i really would like to have a working controler so that when somebody other than me drives the truck they don't accidently push the button too long.

 

[The Warden]

i really would like to have a working controler so that when somebody other than me drives the truck they don't accidently push the button too long.

I have to say that I agree completely with your sentiments there. I originally had a push-button set up when my truck's controller (the old 6.9l bimetallic spring setup) died. I used it for about a year and a half, and lost two sets of plugs in that timeframe...and that was being with as careful about timing the cycles as possible. After the second set died, I decided to upgrade to the 7.3l setup...I still have some bugs to work out, but all in all, I think it's better than the push-button. With the push-button, there are too many variables that the driver may or may not know about, not to mention the potential for operator error if someone else is driving the truck.

Just wanted to put in a vote for fixing the system A push-button is IMHO better than the 6.9l setup (which tends to fail "ON"), but I'd take a 7.3l system over a push-button any day.

 

[Pipeliner_86]

I agree with you guys on the fact that a good working glow plug controller is better than a push-button set up. I went that route because I wasn't going to shell out 100 bucks for a new controller. Yes the 6.9 GP controller sucks, the 7.3 system is much better.
I have a donor truck with a 7.3 and ZF-5 speed waiting to get stuffed in my truck. When my 6.9 finally sings it's last song, I'll pull it and put the 7.3 + ZF-5 speed in.
But on a different note, I haven't used my glow plugs in over a year. They have no affect on starting my truck. Even after I replaced them, and verified that they are working. I think my IP is to tired and doesn't throw out enough fuel, or something. Every time I need to start my truck, I give a small shot of ether to the air cleaner, but thats only on the first start of the day. After the truck has run for a 1/2 hour or more, it'll start every time after that without problem, all day long. I know most of you reading this post are thinking, this guy's an idiot spraying ether down the throat of that poor IDI. If WD-40 was enough to do the trick I'd use it instead of ether.
But like I said, I have a 7.3 just waiting to get inside the old truck, which is going to go in this summer regardless if my 6.9 goes south or not.

 

[Mont91]

The '88 in my sig was ethered for years until i put it in my '91 with a good controller. A lot of medium duty trucks use ether injection systems for cold start. These systems are much easier on starters and batteries. A lot of tractors use ether injectors. The only time ether is bad is when used wrong. I prefer a good glowplug or heat grid system. But when it is 20 30 or 40+ below Zero even these can be ethered if done right. Done it many times.