fun idea aka turbo and fabrication

hairyboxnoogle

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Ok, so i got into some trouble, and as it turns out im not going to be driving my truck for a while... legally at any rate. So i started thinkin of things i could do to it since i dont need to drive it. After talking to a dodge buddy of mine i can get an HX35 for pretty much nuthin. So now im thinking i can play around with fitting it on there and getting it working.

Parts list right off the top of my head:
turbo, manifold flanges, turbo hotside flange, weld elbows and pipe, 7.3 SD intercooler, aluminum tubing, silicone boots, pyro, oil supply /return line, cone air filter.

Im sure i missed a bunch of important stuff, but realistically it should be fun, kill time, keep me from driving my truck, and be a learning experience.

Now speaking of experience, i have none with turbos so here is what i propose. On my stock NA 7.3 with 280k, no studs, no new head gaskets, and stock IP / injectors, will the HX35 do what i need or should i look into the hx40? I can get either the 40 is $50 more. I dont want to do anything to the engine besides turbo it, and not blow it up. Figuring on 15lbs of boost, might see 17. As far as i know the 35 will do all this just fine long before egts and lack of fuel come into the equation.

I chose this turbo on price and availability alone, i have to run custom manifolds and up /down pipes anyway in my truck so i figured what the hell.

So lemme hear all the cheers, advice, booing, flaming, ideas or anything else y'all want to throw my way.
 

towcat

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here's an alternate and attainable suggestion.....
2in body lift. why? so the HX35 can tuck under the cowl.
hot side crossover and uppipes from either factory ATS or WG banks kit.
why? T3 mount already there and prefabed. WG Banks is ideal due to the fact the turbo is unrestrained by the drainback tube.
you will have to custom fab the downpipe.
IC tubing and cold air supply will have to be fabbed. nowhere as hard as doing the hot side.
here's a linky to a WG banks install kit I sold. if you can think outside the box, you can see the install potential.;Sweet

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=42501

check out the pics in post #7 and you can get the general idea.
 

88beast

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you can read my build thread but long and short a 40 will be too big for the motor
on my stroker im using a hx35/40 hybrid to spool it as i want
the hx series is a great option cause you can build off and mod it
so an hx35 will do good
 

hairyboxnoogle

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here's an alternate and attainable suggestion.....
2in body lift. why? so the HX35 can tuck under the cowl.
I already have a 2" body lift from swapping the supercab onto a SC frame.

hot side crossover and uppipes from either factory ATS or WG banks kit.
why? T3 mount already there and prefabed. WG Banks is ideal due to the fact the turbo is unrestrained by the drainback tube.
There is no room behind my engine whatsoever, it almost hits or does from the back of the heads to the shifter on the trans.

you will have to custom fab the downpipe.
Looking forward to it.
IC tubing and cold air supply will have to be fabbed. nowhere as hard as doing the hot side.
Ya not sure just yet how im going to start that one, but it will be less critical since i will be able to run the engine w/out the IC. Hardest part is going to be modifying the grille and core support to make room for the IC. Still trying to find some 60s/70s Ford heavy truck hood latches.

here's a linky to a WG banks install kit I sold. if you can think outside the box, you can see the install potential.
Im sure i can, but i would have to know what im looking at first. Right now i get the concept of add turbo, make more power, and have something else to play with.

Remember this isnt on an 83-94 truck, its on 79 and i stuffed the engine as far down and back as possible without rebuilding crossmembers. I have a rough idea on how it will all fit together, question is do i have the room to do it without remote mounting.
 

wmoguy

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someone here posted up a nice flow chart for various turbos recently. I had fun plans to do exactly what you mentioned here, but decided I don't have the time to jack around with custom crap right now and am just putting the 94 back together with other various performance parts. :sly

Check out that flow chart though, the hx35 may not give you the CFMs you want/need. It'll boost like a mother down low but I think you'll run short of air. As 88 said, take a look at a 40/35 hybrid. I have one, that is one bad **** turbo and might give you the best of both worlds. Or you could step up to a hx40 and do a t3 to t4 flange adapter (they are cheap) the 40 flows almost exactly the same CFMs as a Powerstroke Turbo IIRC. If you go a 40 buy a good one thats been upgraded. The 40's are notorious for grenading the first time they get barked. I've seen several do some ugly things to Cummins powered trucks.
 

hairyboxnoogle

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ill check it out for sure. even if it is a little on the small side i think it will work for what it is. basically im looking for quick spools just to help it out, i have 5 spd with tall gears and tires so quick spooling down low sure isnt going to bother me any. I dont tow much and when i do its usually only around town, or on the freeway for short stretches. So all out towing up grades and what not is no concern.
 

wmoguy

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yep worse cased scenario, you can get a HX35 cheap cheap cheap on Fleabay or Clist and if it's too small send it off to have it turned into hybrid

definitely don't get the 12 cm housing that some of the 35s came with. A 16cm housing I think would be a nice happy medium. you could always step up to a 18 or a 21 cm housing if EGTs were an issue
 

88beast

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im running a 21 out of a 40 and it will spool later but i want more high end power so ya
 

93_444idi

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how is a hx40 too big? these are meant for small volume cummins motors, even an hx40 makes quite a bit less cfm than a stock psd turbo. rotaryboots runs a stock psd turbo and gets almost 300 hp as a dd. with a moose pump, studs, intercooler and typ4 cam.
 

hairyboxnoogle

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Not necessarily 'too big', just bigger than i need, the turbo is only for fun power when i mash the skinny pedal, to kill time, and have a fun learning experience. Im not studding, not running a modded pump, or bigger injectors. If I build 5lbs at 1400 awesome, if egts start climbing at 3k plus on long pulls. who cares ill let out. Quick spooling and low end boost is more important right now. Did the 12,16 and 18 come on factory pickups? the one im getting is off either a 99 or 2002 24v. All i know about it is its a wastegated HX35. Will find out more after this weekend i think.
 

wmoguy

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Not necessarily 'too big', just bigger than i need, the turbo is only for fun power when i mash the skinny pedal, to kill time, and have a fun learning experience. Im not studding, not running a modded pump, or bigger injectors. If I build 5lbs at 1400 awesome, if egts start climbing at 3k plus on long pulls. who cares ill let out. Quick spooling and low end boost is more important right now. Did the 12,16 and 18 come on factory pickups? the one im getting is off either a 99 or 2002 24v. All i know about it is its a wastegated HX35. Will find out more after this weekend i think.

The 2002s had a 14cm housing iirc. If it was an automatic it's an hy35 which had a 9cm housing That is not interchangeable. The hy35s are very common turbos for snowmobiles.
 

88beast

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93 444 40 were on 8.3s 35s on 5.9s but you got to remember on that 5.9 a 35 can be made to make more boost than we need and a 40 on a stock motor will spool late in the rpm too late for him
hairy get the numbers off the intake and google them itll give you model then look inside the exhaust housing itll show the cm for that housing if you can get it mad cheap just get another housing
 

93_444idi

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what cfm do our units push? Are you sure an hx-35 pushes more cfm than an 093 turbo?

while an hx35 makes lets say 25 psi in a 5.9, in a 7.3 it has a lot more volume to fill up and pressurize, causing it to make less boost. If I'm wrong correct me, this just seems like common sense to me.
 

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