Fuel Problem
- Thread starter TMACK0034
- Start date
TMACK0034
Registered User
Yes it has power to it. I was hoping that was the problem so I checked that and the other connections and they all have the correct voltage. The IP was a little loose where it bolts to the timing gear cover. I was wondering if that could affect it not running? I'm trying everything I can before I have to take the IP off.
finitetime
Full Access Member
Unless the lines (assuming your talking about injector lines) were removed from the truck I don't think they would be clogged. And I would bet money that even if they were laying on ground for years that not all of them would be plugged so bad that they couldn't push a little fuel through them. There sealed pretty tight and could just sit there for years with diesel in them if they were on the motor the whole time.
How do you know the pump is getting fuel?
Did you take the rubber return line on the top of the pump loose and get fuel out or somewhere else? If your getting fuel out of the top of the pump. Loose a couple of injectors or several and turn truck over. Hook a battery charger to batteries cause you will drain them.
If you don't get fuel out of it then I would say the problem is in the pump.
The loose pump might affect the truck running but not its ability to pump fuel!! The fact that it was loose makes me wounder if someone just stuck it on there to sell the motor? I don't think it will run it you can move the pump so without tearing the pump up. And that might be what happened.
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finitetime
Full Access Member
The fuel shut off solenoid could be getting power and it still be bad. It will click and you should be able to here it if someone else turns the key on and you listen to the pump.
TMACK0034
Registered User
Yes I took the return line of the top of the IP and it was a getting a good steady stream of fuel. The FSS does click off and on when I unplug it and plug it back in. I'm having one of my friends thats a diesel mechanic look at the IP today to see if it has gone bad. I'm just about ready to go a powerstroke out of a 94 at the salvage by my house and put it in.
These trucks, require extensive use of TIME management to MANAGE fuel
It takes quite a bit of time to get the IP to prime up with lines disconnected and engine spinning on starter. Once there is fuel at most of the injectors, you can tighten the lines down and be good to go.
One piece of advice while cranking engine OVER and bleeding OPEN injector lines....HOLD throttle in Wide OPEN position to move the MOST amount of fuel to those lines you can!
This will help to expedite fuel delivery to the injectors.
Remember 20 seconds of Cranking, two minutes of cool down on starter, repeat till lines bleed out.
If this engine has NOT run in some time this actually may take many cycles of said crank/wait.
I'm of the jumper wire to FSS, and remote starter switch in hand to do this type of first fire work.
No need to swap to PS this engine will be fine so long as it's a runner.
GOOD HEALTHY charged batteries and even a good booster to assist can be a great asset.
To make things even easier on the starter pull the GP's so there is no compression to fight, this will make things happen quicker and as well let you see what the GP's look like and replace the bad ones as needed.
JM2CW for a first fire
Al
It takes quite a bit of time to get the IP to prime up with lines disconnected and engine spinning on starter. Once there is fuel at most of the injectors, you can tighten the lines down and be good to go.
One piece of advice while cranking engine OVER and bleeding OPEN injector lines....HOLD throttle in Wide OPEN position to move the MOST amount of fuel to those lines you can!
This will help to expedite fuel delivery to the injectors.
Remember 20 seconds of Cranking, two minutes of cool down on starter, repeat till lines bleed out.
If this engine has NOT run in some time this actually may take many cycles of said crank/wait.
I'm of the jumper wire to FSS, and remote starter switch in hand to do this type of first fire work.
No need to swap to PS this engine will be fine so long as it's a runner.
GOOD HEALTHY charged batteries and even a good booster to assist can be a great asset.
To make things even easier on the starter pull the GP's so there is no compression to fight, this will make things happen quicker and as well let you see what the GP's look like and replace the bad ones as needed.
JM2CW for a first fire
Al
finitetime
Full Access Member
All good advise.
As for getting a used power stroke . Your already dealing with a used engine and the one you have is way simpler and way cheaper to work on than a power stroke.
TMACK0034
Registered User
Thanks for the advice Riotwarrior. To my knowledge hasn't ran in at least 2 years and probably has actually been longer then that. Im just being inpatient cause I'm used to hooking the engine up and it runs but this is my first diesel. I have a good 150amp booster/starter. I would much have the idi for reliability and how much cheaper it is to work. I found the powerstroke with everything there for $400 but that's also not knowing what shape it's in. Thank you all the advice. I will do that today when I get it back from my friend and let you know what happens.
TMACK0034
Registered User
The question I have though is I took the top of it off last night to look at the FSS and look inside the IP for any bits of sludge or anything that is not supposed to be there. The black plastic of the FSS looks like its been scratched up and the metal inside of the IP looks rusted. Would that anything to do with it?
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Well from what you "found" inside the pump its my guess that pump is shot. Never should you see any rust on anything. Thats a sign of a ruined pump. Before you try to buy a rebuilt pump please read the Hall of Shame forum to know where NOT TO BUY. Now if you choose to buy from the cheapest ebay seller then expect the pump to be much less than a rebuild too.
TMACK0034
Registered User
There are 5 or so 7.3 idi out at the salvage and couple of recent additions. The guy only wants $50 for an IP. Should give that a shot before I shell out $300 or more for an IP. I definitely replace it this summer with a brand new when I have more income from my landscaping.
TMACK0034
Registered User
Okay so I have installed another IP that I got for free on the truck and I am getting fuel to the injectors but it is still not firing off. Is there anyway I can tell if the pump is just to weak or the injectors are not allowing fuel through. I have 8 brand new motorcraft glow plugs and all of them are getting voltage with the key on.
TMACK0034
Registered User
I have also done the Seafoam treatment in hopes something was just clogged up and no luck.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
How did you install the pump. did you remove the pump, gear and housing off the top of the engine. Did you loosen 4 long bolts to remove the pump..
TMACK0034
Registered User
No I removed the IP from the gear and housing. The housing stayed on the engine and I installed the back the same way. I read to not remove the housing and I didn't want to make things any harder
