Fuel Lines @ Top Of Sending Units ???

HammerDown

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
2,159
Reaction score
82
Location
Glenolden Pa
Question...the fuel lines running to the top of the tank's sending-units (I'm guessing 3, feed-return-vent) are they plastic or rubber?
Regular hose clamps or, some fancy, factory clip that requires a tool to remove them?
Are they somewhat flexible, or can I assume they will crack and split when I start to remove them?
Anyone got a picture or two?

And yes > both shower heads must be busted-off :mad:
 

Agnem

Using the Force!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Posts
17,067
Reaction score
374
Location
Delta, PA
Ray, great to hear from you! It depends, is the only answer I can give. I've seen both, and until you look, you won't know what you have. The plastic hoses have plastic clips, and your right, you will pretty much have to ruin those clips to get them off. Good news is, they sell replacement clips on the red HELP rack at the local autoparts store. Rubber hoses will just have plain old hose clamps. There will only be the supply and the return. The tank vents are usually seperate.
 

HammerDown

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
2,159
Reaction score
82
Location
Glenolden Pa
Thanks Mel :hail
So, I could assume 'if' it's plastic fuel line...and it's from 1988, it will pretty much be brittle and break when I try to pull it off...and probably won't reseal either. :rolleyes:

BTW > congrats on the renewing of your wedding vows. ;Sweet
 

icanfixall

Official GMM hand model
Joined
Apr 10, 2005
Posts
25,858
Reaction score
673
Location
West coast
What Mel has posted pretty much sums it up. Dropping the rear tank is the tuf tank to work on. The fuel left in it will throw off the balance when your dropping the tank. I found its easier to cut loose the lines that run across the rear frame member so you have moore slack when dropping the tank. You have to drop the tank just to reach the sending unit to remove the electrical and lines. My 89 was not brittle but the clips were tuff to reach because I didn't free up the lines from the frame cross member. I actually damaged the suction line in the sender. I broke loose the weld joint and it only leaked fuel when the tank was full... Really bad time to find a fuel leak too. The roll over valve line is plastic as I recall with no clamps.
 

gandalf

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Posts
3,883
Reaction score
1,073
Location
CA &/or Maine
The lines on my '92 CC are plastic, I'm pretty sure. I've had them off the front tank in order to clear the hard lines into the tank with air pressure. The lines were flexible enough that they moved sufficiently for working on them.

The connectors to the metal stubs coming from the tank do require a clip. The clips seldom survive removal. Have spares on hand. My spares came from Dorman, part number 800-015. The pack has three each, 5/16" and 3/8". They come in two colors, black and white. I believe the white are 3/8" and the black 5/16". You need one of each, since your supply line and return line are different sizes.

All that being said, our trucks are four years apart. They may not be the same setup.

I'll include a picture of the front tank connections. The rear should be fairly similar, but I haven't had to deal with them yet.


You must be registered for see images attach
 

towcat

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2004
Posts
18,196
Reaction score
1,439
Location
SantaClara,Ca/Hamilton,TX
ken-
his is the same as yours. later '92 and up trucks went to metal fuel lines and required a tool to remove the line if rust has not set in.
 

HammerDown

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 12, 2005
Posts
2,159
Reaction score
82
Location
Glenolden Pa
The lines on my '92 CC are plastic, I'm pretty sure. I've had them off the front tank in order to clear the hard lines into the tank with air pressure. The lines were flexible enough that they moved sufficiently for working on them.

The connectors to the metal stubs coming from the tank do require a clip. The clips seldom survive removal. Have spares on hand. My spares came from Dorman, part number 800-015. The pack has three each, 5/16" and 3/8". They come in two colors, black and white. I believe the white are 3/8" and the black 5/16". You need one of each, since your supply line and return line are different sizes.

All that being said, our trucks are four years apart. They may not be the same setup.

I'll include a picture of the front tank connections. The rear should be fairly similar, but I haven't had to deal with them yet.


You must be registered for see images attach

Wow...no rust up there!
What's the magic with the retaining ring > righty tighty-lefty loosey???
Thanks for all the feedback fellas.
 

jlwoods99

Registered User
Joined
May 10, 2012
Posts
229
Reaction score
0
Location
midland, mi
Guys, not to get to far off topic but this weekend I quiz ya'll about the fuel lines on my 92 f350 at the tank transfer line as I had a leak and was pumping air. The reply I got was the the line sizes were 5/16 and 3/8. the steel line had a small hole so I bought both sizes. went to put it on and both steel lines appeared to be the same size and the 5/16 fuel line was larger than the steel line so I slit it and took a slice out to make it clamp down tight to seal my air intrusion. I got home ok but not sure now what to replace the steel with One line I could read and it said x.x mm line don't remember the size but was metric. Any sugestions what to replace the steel with as it had those same funny clamps on the transfer valve so I'm guessing I have to attach to the old plastic line.

Thanks
Jim
 

subway

be nice to the admin :D
Joined
Oct 4, 2006
Posts
6,542
Reaction score
1,038
Location
York PA
Jim, i carefull slit the hard lines and underneath them is a regular hose barb to attack a regular rubber line to. then the other end is still the correct end to latch into the fuel selector valve. i had to replace both rear lines from the fuel selector valve back about a year ago. i just bought some bulk 5/16 hard line bent it to shape then connected the ends of the hard line with short lengths of regular rubber line the way i mentioned. this is on my 94.

Bob, yes the rings are right tighty and lefty loosey. get a brass drift or hammer to hit the tabs CCW, it will probubly take some muscle and working around the ring to break it loose and get it to turn. you only have to get it to turn 30-40 degrees and it should lift out. i have gotten some nasty ones out though. afterward i wire wheel them down paint them and coat them with anti-sieze in case i need to get back in again.
 

Agnem

Using the Force!
Supporting Member
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
Posts
17,067
Reaction score
374
Location
Delta, PA
Ray, I've not had any issues with the lines being too brittle to re-use or re-seal. Of course none of us are getting any younger, but I think you would have good luck if you just have the new clips handy.
 

Zaggnutt

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Posts
761
Reaction score
4
Location
PA
ken-
his is the same as yours. later '92 and up trucks went to metal fuel lines and required a tool to remove the line if rust has not set in.

I have a 94 with a leak in the front tank and rotted off tank lines in both... What is the tool you are referencing to remove the lines on top of the tank?
 
Last edited:

PackRat239

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 10, 2012
Posts
311
Reaction score
0
Location
Illinois/ SW Fla.
ken-
his is the same as yours. later '92 and up trucks went to metal fuel lines and required a tool to remove the line if rust has not set in.

Not So. My 93 has plastic lines with steel line sections in the center and the standard style quick connects at the ends. My senders rusted at the fittings, and the steel sections of the lines rusted too. I replaced with rubber using the factory ends. Carefully slit plastic, remove fittings and insert in rubber lines using Oetekar(sp) clamps.
 

Zaggnutt

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 20, 2013
Posts
761
Reaction score
4
Location
PA
What size hose do I need to extend the line in the tank?
 
Top