Fuel Heater Leaking

[Zeb1989]

I'm going to tap and plug housing as the terminal for the heater is bubbling up through the middle. Question is when I put the plug in the tapped hole do I use Teflon tape or locktite?

Thanks

 

[IDIoit]

i use RTV on coolant areas and teflon on fuel areas.
theoretically NPT does not require either, because of the tapered thread, but not bad insurance.

 

[BDCarrillo]

Teflon should be fine, it's on the unfiltered side anyway so any bits of tape would be caught by the filter.

Just don't tap it too deep.

 

[madpogue]

Teflon tape is a great way to break anything soft, as it makes it WAAAY to easy to over-torque. Use a paste thread sealant such as Gasoila.

Loctite is a thread locker, not a sealant.

 

[Zeb1989]

thanks to all

 

[ironworker40]

I don't use teflon tape on engines. Thats for plumbing. Get some of this.

 

[icanfixall]

Or use some JB Weld on the threads. Guaranteed never to leak.

 

[theguruat12]

+2 on Teflon thread sealant, I use Rectorseal T plus 2

 

[IDIoit]

Or use some JB Weld on the threads. Guaranteed never to leak.

and never come out!

 

[Bashby]

I used a little blue loctite. Hasn't leaked in 6 months or so.

 

[Zeb1989]

Thanks

 

[reklund]

Its super easy to just replace the 2 o-rings in the heater and repair it. I got mine from a local hydraulics shop, rather than special order from International. They didn't even charge me for them, since I only was there for 2 o-rings.

I know the fuel heater is largely unnecessary, and lots of folks delete it, but the repair took me less than 30 minutes once I had the o-rings (had to take the old ones in and match them up). I'm a wierdo that thinks that all the features of a vehicle should function as designed, so I opted to retain my fuel heater.

My $.02

 

[madpogue]

I'm a wierdo that thinks that all the features of a vehicle should function as designed....

Would that include a cassette deck, or a steering rag joint? If you had a '60s pickup truck, would you retain the in-cab fuel tank? "As designed" doesn't always mean "useful in today's world", and these are all examples. The fuel heater was designed into the fuel system at a time in history when retail diesel fuel was not nearly as temperature-stable as it is today. Today's winter blend diesel, esp. when used with an anti-gel additive, don't need the heater. IOW, like the in-cab fuel tank, the rag joint and the cassette deck, it's obsolete technology.

 

[theguruat12]

Would that include a cassette deck, or a steering rag joint? If you had a '60s pickup truck, would you retain the in-cab fuel tank? "As designed" doesn't always mean "useful in today's world", and these are all examples. The fuel heater was designed into the fuel system at a time in history when retail diesel fuel was not nearly as temperature-stable as it is today. Today's winter blend diesel, esp. when used with an anti-gel additive, don't need the heater. IOW, like the in-cab fuel tank, the rag joint and the cassette deck, it's obsolete technology.

I may well be the only one, but the in-cab fuel tank is something I just like. Call me crazy, but imagining getting into any of my family's past 71's without that smell of fuel is just wrong.

Also I agree on replacing the fuel heater o-rings, simply because it's easier. I too did mine in less than half an hour, no problems. Easier than going and finding my tap kit. But hey, that's just me.

JM2CW

 

[icanfixall]

The next time my heater leaks fuel its getting replaced with a plug. End of leaks is the direction I want to go. Same with that stel return line running down the drivers side in the intake manifld. The manifold fitting way back @ # 8 cylinder injector has an olive seal in it. Big fuel leaks happen thee. I replaced mine 8 years ago during an overhaul. That thing was was hard as hell. Many have no idea there is a seal like that in there and can chase a fuel leak for months till they find this. The later 1/4 inch return line fitting back there is designed without this olive seal. Evolution has worked again...