Fuel heater delete question.....

[Morgonzo]

I've been reading the tech article on how to get rid of the fuel heater at the filter head on the 7.3. Great write up except I can't figure out exactly what he did with the wire that connected onto the filter head? Do you just cut it and wrap it in tape? What happens to that connector/wire so that it's not just an open connection?

Thanks....

 

[OLDBULL8]

I can think of six different ways to eliminate it.

You could cut it off at the multi wire connector that goes over the valve cover then pull it out of the harness.

You could just fold it back and tape it to the harness.

You could just cut it off where it goes into the harness.

You could just let it hang loose.

You could trace it back to the key switch and disconnect it there, then do one of the above at the other end.

 

[Morgonzo]

Thanks Oldbull8. That's what I was looking' for!

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

tracing it back,you can see where it enters into the connector where Bill stated,over by the valve cover.i think it actually lays on the inner fender of the 9th gens.it comes out of the power distribution box.if you unclip this connector,you can simply snip it right in there,leaving the line hot from the power distribution box to this clip cus it wont hurt anything inside this connector.this is the best of the easiest solutions.

 

[Morgonzo]

Yup, that's what I'll do. I was just in need of some clarification and edification...

thanks.

 

[crash-harris]

Use it as an ignition on signal for an electric fuel pump!

 

[MTKirk]

I've been wondering if I could use that wire as either the hot wire to my filter wrap, or more likely as a trigger wire for a relay that powers the wrap. It's winter now so I just have the wrap on whenever my diesel pump is on, but in the summer I'm thinking it would be nice to have it cycle off when the engine temp gets to normal. Any ideas?

 

[fsmyth]

According to the diagram I have ('94-'96), the wire is +12V in START and RUN positions.
i.e., ON all the time the engine is running.

 

[Morgonzo]

sounds like i might keep it now for heating WVO when I get around to that project....

It's something i want to do eventually, so why not just keep the wire? I'd like to get into making my own bio-diesel as well, but I don't think I have quite enough property to isolate something potentially explosive from my neighbors. Cobb County might have something to say about that. If they squabble over whether you have 3 or 5 chickens and how many is Lawful..I can only imagine how they'd feel about having your own refinery on a 1/2 acre plot.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

for those with '92+ trucks with E4OD auto transmissions,this wire is cheaply run off from the same circuit that supplies power to the trans.so if you run something off this line and it shorts out,you lose power to your transmission and therefore only have R and 2nd gear.
in this case,the power feed to the fuel filter heater shouldn't even be there imo.i wouldn't recommend using this line for anything.not even keeping it there for it's oem purpose.

 

[Morgonzo]

The electric pump seems to be a pretty standard upgrade to these trucks. I'm torn between liking the idea of the improved fuel delivery and ease of starting/priming etc, and loving the pure simplicity of a fully mechanical set up which is why I was shopping for an IDI in the first place.
I am however, going to be replacing my lift pump in the near future for peace of mind. I Should just go ahead and do it now that the trucks down and i'm waiting on Russ's injectors.

Not a bad time to do it I guess, especially if i'm gonna dig into the filter head and delete the heater. Gonna stop by Northern Tool today and get the taps and plug I need. Hopefully the temps will warm back up in time for me to actually do all this work.

 

[Morgonzo]

Ok, haha i guess it's back to plan A: cut the sucker.

 

[crash-harris]

Go electric. Same reason why I wanted a diesel, mechanical injection, but the lift pump IMHO is the week(est) point of the IDI's fuel system. People around here tend to not take care of things, so the diaphragm cracking and flooding the crankcase with fuel is more of a concern. I justify the electric fuel pump with the fact that I can keep it under my control, not a computer.

If the relay fails, just replace it with a spare (keep one in cab, vibration/heat is a relay's worst enemy). If the mechanical pump fails, your most likely looking at a tow or replacing the lift pump on the side of the road.

 

[Morgonzo]

also, is there a "recommended" lift pump? I've been trying to stay away from junk (china) parts, you guys have helped ALOT with that. Is one brand better than another on these or is it not an issue?

 

[fsmyth]

Pretty much not an issue, as long as you stay away from the cheap parts-house pumps.

Last run, I got a dozen of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-12V-Uni...ash=item25a5fb114c:g:UV4AAOSwqu9VTCdb&vxp=mtr
Every one has worked so far, and all are in service (~8). If I need more volume or pressure,
I just add another one. Cheap enough to carry spares in trucks and toolkit.

Here is your Facet type:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-0...ash=item43e1e9bf96:g:fT4AAOSwaA5WjL6k&vxp=mtr
About 1/4 the price for the same pump from Onan/Cummins.

Not having any problems with China "junk". So far.