Fudge Monkey, Broken Brake Caliper Bolt

[FordGuy100]

So how do I go about getting the rest of this sucker out? Ez out? Never used one before but I'm thinking I'm going to have to learn tommorow.

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[79jasper]

Good luck.
I've never successfully used one. Always snaps off. A reverse drill bit just a size smaller than the bolt may work.

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[lotzagoodstuff]

Is that a caliper Justin? Easyouts/bolt extractors work ok, but I can't say they work all the time. An EDM is pretty awesome, but most folks don't have access to one. If you can get it into a drill press, you can very (VERY) carefully drill and tap a smaller very (VERY) centered hole, tap it to the largest reasonable size that you can, then get a case hardened bolt, like an allen bolt, double nut it and try to back the broken bolt out using the smaller case hardened allen. Heat will help, but if it's near a caliper/seals/etc you won't be able to use the flame wrench

Broken bolts suck: one of the reasons I will never own anything that's seen salt ever again. Try an easyout, just don't break it (they are hardened, if you break one it makes your mess hardened).

Take your time, be careful, try not to create too many new swear words and/or participate in the Olympic Tool Throwing competition, and good luck.

 

[junk]

Easy out is the worst name for a tool ever. I would drill it with a drill bit and try an easy out. Left handed drill bit seems interesting also.

 

[PackRat239]

Weld a nut on it and it will back right out.

 

[icanfixall]

Wow... Clean break.. Now thats a GM caliper isn't it and that broken bolt is in the backing plate the caliper mounts too. I sure would apply some heat to the outer edge on that mounting plate before I try drilling. If you can't use oxy acetylene then use a map gas torch. Its a hotter flame than a propane bottle torch.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Weld a nut on it and it will back right out.

You think you could weld a nut in a recessed hole where the broken stud is buried as shown in the picture

 

[FordGuy100]

Nope it's my truck, and that's the only bolt that secures the caliper on by keeping that I beam looking piece from sliding around.

No access to welder so I'm going to try the easy out.

 

[FordGuy100]

And to be fair this was when I was tightening it, so it's my fault entirely. Oh well.

 

[hce]

If you drill it, it has to be centered. Looks like the bolt it broken down in the hole. Use a largest drill bit that just fits into the hole, and drill just enough to make a shallow hole so a smaller bit will not walk. Use the proper size drill bit for the easy out and drill the rest of the way. I would suggest a left hand drill bit for this step. If the bolt still failed to come out now try the easy out. Use a hammer and lightly force it in, and try to extract the bolt. Probably did not come out, try to heat just the bolt and once hot, press a chunk of wax onto the bolt, let cool, try easy out, repeat may take a few times, be patient to not try to force it with the easy out. If this did not work now we procceed to why we were so careful centering the hole.
Find the appropriate drill bit for tap. If the hole is CENTERED AND STRAIGHT, most of the time the bolt can be drilled out even the threads will come out. The drill bit needs to be same size or bigger then the minor diameter of the threads on the bolt. Going up a 1/64" on the recommended drill size is not a bad idea. Done right, a bolt will screw right back in without chasing. Do not try to do this on the vehicle, it will make very difficult.
Welding a nut on is not a bad solution. It just makes the last resort of drilling out the bolt difficult.

 

[Knuckledragger]

Well, I doubt you are going to put the entire truck in a drill press, so use a hand drill. I would heat the bolt up first, in case it is hardened, then grind a little starting divot on the broken area because drills tend to walk around before starting, especially by hand. If you have time, soak it with Kroil or PB Blaster (or any rust solvent you like) to give yourself the best chance of success.

An EZ out will work in most cases if the threads are not galled. Use a drill size about half the diameter of the bolt. Too small and you will break the EZ out, too big and you will deform the bolt body and wedge it in the hole of the caliper

 

[icanfixall]

Ok.. So now I understand how it broke. I was thinking it broke when you tried to remove it. So maybe its free in the threaded piece. Did you feel it going in hard and when it bottomed out you twisted the head off. If so the threads are holding it firmly in there. But if the threads were clean and grease or anti sieze was used it will back out easily. Try a small diamond point chisel and attempt to push it around to back it out. If you have a Dremel grinder buy a very small burr and flat a place in the center or at least use a very sharp center punch for a pilot hole to drill from. You hopefully will get lucky

 

[kawamatt]

Ok.. So now I understand how it broke. I was thinking it broke when you tried to remove it. So maybe its free in the threaded piece. Did you feel it going in hard and when it bottomed out you twisted the head off. If so the threads are holding it firmly in there. But if the threads were clean and grease or anti sieze was used it will back out easily. Try a small diamond point chisel and attempt to push it around to back it out. If you have a Dremel grinder buy a very small burr and flat a place in the center or at least use a very sharp center punch for a pilot hole to drill from. You hopefully will get lucky

Exactly. If it broke because the threads hung up or it bottomed out, get ready to fight it. If the head popped off because you tried to turn it in too far, whats left in the hole is likely not very tight and will come right out with a left hand drill bit.

 

[hce]

I think a person could separate the balljoints before having to put the whole truck in a drill press.

 

[FordGuy100]

It's out Phew.

I did screw up and had the center drill hole slightly off to the side, didn't catch it in time while drilling. Live and learn!