Front wheel bearing in a 4x4?

[texcl]

Also about tire noise, if your tire has bubbles chances are there is an underlying issue like bad ball joints bearings ect... so the new tire might quiet it down but in a couple thousand miles you might be buying new tires again.

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here's a pic of my hub apart. see the giant socket you need for removal in the pic.

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here's what one ujoint cap looked like when I took her down

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the bare knuckle

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this is that messed up dust boot/seal you have in your pic notice the slick area right after the seal is where the d-shaft rides on the needle bearings inside the spindle.

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that ********* thing on the shaft is my special driving tool without the handle. I though I had a finished pic with the new seal but I don't.

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If you do the u-joint make sure u get the joint with this type of grease cert for clearance.

 

[79jasper]

Also about tire noise, if your tire has bubbles chances are there is an underlying issue like bad ball joints bearings ect... so the new tire might quiet it down but in a couple thousand miles you might be buying new tires again.

True in most cases, but these were just ****** tires.
The belts were separating.
Can't remember the brand.
Not it has wanli S-3012's, which IMO are equal quality.

 

[GOOSE]

I would get an extra set of eyes, raise the front end onto jack stands and start wiggleing the front tire to pinpoint where slop is coming from. If your ball joints or king puns are tight and you feel slop, chances are the wheel bearings are tired and loose.

The hard part to swallow is that this is a great time to tear the whole front end apart and rebuilt it thoroughly. By the time you get to your bearings, the ball joints and axle shaft u joints are right there. The leaf spring and pivot bushings are one more step of disassembly away. Tie rods and linkage the easiest to get to that they will ever be. If you can plan this, you will save immense headaches down the road, your tires will thank you, your 4wd system will be more reliable for the years to come. Its hard to cough up the coin for all the components at once but the results sure are nice. Good luck with your repairs.

 

[velacreations]

yeah, I would love to rebuild the front end, but money is tight, and I don't know if I can find the funds to do it right now. We drive this truck like 2 times a month, basically to go to the city for feed and supplies.

What sort of ballpark amount am I looking at for rebuilding the front end? I'll probably have to prioritize things, starting with whatever is creating the noise, and then maybe rebuild some of the more worn components.

I drove the truck a bit yesterday, and got under there and tried to move things around, but nothing had any play (none of the u-joints or the carrier bearing on the drive shaft). Nothing felt hot, either. I figured a worn bearing would heat up the wheel and shaft, and a worn ujoint might be hot, too, but I can't find anything obvious.

I'll have some time next week to take it somewhere to get an expert opinion as to what might be going on.

 

[texcl]

Well, you can get a cheap chinese tie rod/ball joint set for around $107 and add $11 for synthetic grease plus another $60 for all the seals, each bearing you replace will be at least $20-25.

 

[GOOSE]

If its a truck only driven 2 times a month, I would buy bearings, races and seals. Everything else is slightly less critical.

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[velacreations]

Well, you can get a cheap chinese tie rod/ball joint set for around $107 and add $11 for synthetic grease plus another $60 for all the seals, each bearing you replace will be at least $20-25.

is that tie rod set just for one side?

I guess about $30 for each u-joint, too, right?

$25 for each bearing, 3 on each side, $150 for the bearings. Then another $60 for the u-joints, assume 2 tierod/ball joint sets @$214, $60 for seals, etc, we're at $500 just for parts. That's less than what I expected, but still a big hit to the family budget. And I'm sure I'm not including everything...

Of course, if I could get the bearings, ujoints, ball joints/tierods all done, that would certainly be a big step in the right direction.

 

[junk]

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If you do the u-joint make sure u get the joint with this type of grease cert for clearance.

Do you use a needle to grease that then?

 

[texcl]

I bought an entire tie rod and ball joint set for $107 on ebay, it went together great and I'm sure it will hold up for the lifespan of this old truck. yup, I use a needle to fill it.

 

[texcl]

Also I know people wont like this but if you are really strapped for cash you can get cheap ujoints at oreillys for $9 ujoints are real easy to replace and everyone I have seen fail on a non modified truck failed due to lack of grease not poor quality. plus those axle ujoints dont get the use the rear drive shaft ones do. Also if you have time to look around those seals probably could be found alot cheaper. I was forced to buy from napa because of poor planning.

 

[velacreations]

Also I know people wont like this but if you are really strapped for cash you can get cheap ujoints at oreillys for $9 ujoints are real easy to replace and everyone I have seen fail on a non modified truck failed due to lack of grease not poor quality. plus those axle ujoints dont get the use the rear drive shaft ones do. Also if you have time to look around those seals probably could be found alot cheaper. I was forced to buy from napa because of poor planning.

I'll look around and see what I can find.

 

[texcl]

if you want the number for the complete tie rod/ ball joint set I got from ebay for $107 let me know I'll look up the number. It was free shipping too If I remember correctly.