front driveline up grade recommendations

[burt]

Well I blew the double cardan part of my front drive shaft up on my 93 crew cab f350 d60 truck yesterday. Truck is cummins powered so a stock driveshaft isn't the right length so it needs to be custom anyway. Question is has anyone done an improved set up they would recommend while i was at it? I dont really think the stock set up is bad but if I need a new double cardan and a retube I might as well go for the best. I also have an rsk with super duty springs on it.Pretty sure the one I blew fit when I had x codes on there then I put v codes on there which lower it and it must have started bottoming the slip.

 

[kuskoal]

I mean, the off road guys can't seem to blow up 1350 joints, even stock-ish stuff from the super duty rigs they pull the newer d60's out of.

Can probably get away with a rebuild of the 1350 slip.

Before you get into retubing the thing, you need to figure out how much driveshaft plunge you have. since your rsk reverses the travel of the spring by design, you probably did over-compress the driveshaft. Though when I had a Monster Jam moment in San Diego, the axle and driveshaft was fine, but the e4od adapter to the 1356 was WRECKED and the leaf had a 90* bend in it.

Does the truck sit lower? Or is the thing kine at a weird angle? My brother has an RSK and his d-shaft works fine.

 

[burt]

Thanks for the response. I was thinking of something like going with 1410 and no double cardan but i think I will just have to take the path of least resistance for now. Can't be without 4x4.

 

[82F100SWB]

These trucks have a 1330 CV, not 1350 like a Super Duty.
The issue I have ran into when running a single joint with some lift is crossmember clearance, or lack thereof.

 

[kuskoal]

1330 double cardan? Interesting... Either way you'd be hard pressed to blow one up unless you pinch the yoke against a rock and try to spin it.

 

[burt]

Well I managed to blow it up. Catastrophic failure. The cast barrel ripped wide open. I lucked out and had another complete drive line in my bone yard that was stock length but had different proportions between the tubed shaft and slip yolk. When I put the slip yolk from the one I blew and put it on the shaft with a good cardan I think it is just about right. I'll be watching close for signs of interference. I'll probably still look into the 1410 conversion front and rear when I get the time and inspiration. Having less joints and all the same sounds appealing.

 

[rockcrawler_101]

on thing to be aware of if you use the single joint is you might get some vibrations if you use 4x4 at highway speeds or leave your hubs locked. The angles between the u joints has to be just right to get no vibrations. CV joints eliminate a lot of the issues with this. This is the reason the factory puts them in the front. They get a angles correct for the rear drive shaft and then use a cv to correct the front misalignment. I have in the past switched to 1350 cv in the rear to get a smoother running truck. I had it on my superduty with 7.3 that was chipped and running 37 tires. never had an issue with it.

 

[burt]

Good point on that. It would be impossible to get the caster and pinion angle correct.

 

[burt]

Truck does have a hopped up p pump Cummins in it but it seems hard to believe that it twisted the cardan apart even tho that's what it looks like happened. It really broke it impressively. Hard to tell what happened in the actual event and what happened after it let loose.

 

[79jasper]

Was it possible the centering pin was gone, so the DC got in a bind?
Were you doing a boosted launch?

Something I've wondered about is getting away from the DC joint. Going with something like a cv joint.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[rockcrawler_101]

It could have just been old and worn out.

 

[burt]

no boosted launch. just accelerating up a dirt hill. I dont really mess around with the truck but it does a lot of heavy towing in the dirt.