Freaking new Guy

Johnm

89dualliehauler
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
Hello All, i am new to this and have an almost bone stock 89 d350 dually that I want to play with.It is a 5 speed man. I already have a 4" custom exhaust done by my buddies at the local muffler shop. it is a system that starts at the frame rail and goes back. the factory down pipe is still in place. we could not figure out how to make that first turn from the turbo housing to make it down. any ideas? I have heard that it might not be a bad thing to have a smaller diameter for the first 3 or 4 feet of the exhaust. But cant confirm that...

I have ordered a gov. spring, 16m housing, power pin, Boost gauge and an exhaust gauge with a pillar mount for both. I am wondering if the 3 piece exhaust manifold is a must have. seams like if i am ripping it apart that i should do it if it is easy...

Almost forgot, I Put in a super heavy duty Hayes clutch, flywheel pressure plate comb 2k miles ago as well. Here are some Pics of my new rid. People call it big and ugly, but i don't think a dually every looked better than an old dodge..
 

Attachments

  • a.jpg
    a.jpg
    868.3 KB · Views: 9

Whit

Registered User
Joined
Dec 20, 2003
Posts
3,808
Reaction score
0
Location
lost in Why-homing
Welcome John

I wouldnt say a 3 piece manifold is manditory but they sure are nice and do give expansion and contraction a break.......see the info

Tips and tricks for porting/polishing/installing a 3 piece exhaust manifold

After much reading of folks having troubles with the OEM manifold cracking and the bolts coming loose from expansion and contraction I decided it was time for me to go to a 3 piece manifold, I opted for the unit from High Tech Turbo and purchased one from a reputable dealer , The manifold arrived and I was like a kid at Christmas time. Out to the garage with a full weekend ahead to play. Here is a pic of the manifold and installation kit

You must be registered for see images


OK first thing first we need to prep the almighty Cummins by removing the turbo and manifold.

Step one
- Remove the air filter housing and the inlet hose, tape off the charger inlet with duct tape so no dirt or dust can get in there.

Step two - Remove the clamp from the charger discharge to the intercooler, 11mm deep socket needed, then tape off both flanges (cleanliness is mandatory boys)

Step three - Remove the oil feed line to the turbo, 20mm wrench; yep tape off both the swivel nut and the inlet into the turbo.

Step four - Remove the two bolts from the oil drain tube, you will need a 10 mm socket with extension on the inside bolt and a 10mm wrench on the outside bolt.

Step five - Remove the five 13mm bolts from the exhaust elbo and save the gasket as you will need it. This step may differ pending your turbo setup.

Step six - Remove the two 15mm nuts from the underside of the turbo flange where it bolts up to the manifold this will be a true test of your dexterity. Now remove the two 15mm bolts and carefully remove the turbo. Tape off all open flanges of the turbo at this point .

Step seven - Remove the exhaust housing using a 13mm socket and extension, Save the 12 bolts and spacers as you will need them. Clean up the machined surface of the Cummins and make sure all carbon deposits are gone.
Take a good look at the old manifold and check for cracks so you can understand the heat issues you are dealing with here, If you have access to a bead blaster you may be surprised what you find as the cracks will be very apparent, this manifold may become a trophy of sorts so you can brag to your buddies about that time when you hit 1500° on the dyno hehehehe. If it is cracked show the wife as this will help to justify a different turbo arrangement in the near future, that's right boys use the system it works hehehehe.

Now that we are this far its time to address some porting issues. Let's concentrate on the six exhaust ports of the HTT manifold. There are some milling tracks that we need to feather in here, Remember the manifold is .300 so don't get to carried away and by no means do you want to alter the flange face as it is a perfect machined surface . . . be careful and go slow. Here is a pic of the port untouched as it was received.


You must be registered for see images


Here is a pic after I carefully removed some metal and feathered into the exhaust tube, I still need to put a smooth finish on it but this will be done when all 6 ports are how I want them.

You must be registered for see images


OK now we need to polish the 6 ports up as smooth as we can, remember looks doesn't matter too much so go by the feel, if it feels nice and smooth then you are there, What you have now done is to make a less restrictive and free flowing manifold that will help to get rid of those high EGT's
Let's now take a look at the exit of the manifold where it mates to the inlet of the turbo. Here is a pic of the ports untouched compared to the OEM manifold.

You must be registered for see images
 

Johnm

89dualliehauler
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
Thx Whitmore, I noticed you got yours from a local deal, my local diesel guy had me laughing when he said anything I did to this truck would void the warrantee ( I think he might be from Mars, or I missed the 20 year warrantee option the last time I bought a car). the other parts I got from pure diesel performance. and I can go there again, but do we have a parts section on this forum, for people that bought parts and never used them or later went to another option.
 

Johnm

89dualliehauler
Joined
Jul 2, 2008
Posts
35
Reaction score
0
Location
Santa Rosa, CA
i am going to go for it, seams like it would be stupid to rip it apart and not replace that, then have it come up later as a week link. has anyone added an intercooler to one of these? what is the most economical ways to do this?
 

Forum statistics

Threads
91,339
Posts
1,130,625
Members
24,140
Latest member
placidoert

Members online

Top