tbrumm
Full Access Member
Awesome - thanks anotheridi! I tend to think of OB as the best forum and sometimes don't search hard enough in the big, wide world out there!
Fluid chnage in E4OD throws a code!
- Thread starter tbrumm
- Start date
Awesome - thanks anotheridi! I tend to think of OB as the best forum and sometimes don't search hard enough in the big, wide world out there!
tbrumm
Full Access Member
No worries here, Direwulf. I have been trying to eliminate one source of problems at a time just like you suggested.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
That is a pleasant thought but there is no way I could be that lucky. Even if it the new TRS somehow miraculously made the CODE 62 go away, the work is still gonna get done. Although, I may delay it to a more "convenient" time.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
You do not need to cut any wires in tranny harness. You will need a very small flat blade screw driver to release the pins.
Disassemble the connector. You can destroy it if you want. Don't damage the pins. The gentle way, if you don't destroy it. Take your screwdriver and insert it in the connector from the wire side. Push until the pin starts to come out of the connector. Then pull back on the wire until it comes out. It might take a couple of shots before it releases.
Insert the wire into the new connector.by pushing in until it locks.
If you do damage any of the pins, bring it to a good auto parts store and match it up.
To line it up. Place the vehicle in neutral. Instal the range sensor leaving the bolts loose. Line up the index mark. Tighten the bolts and plug in the connector.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
All the parts have finally gotten here, so next step would be to schedule the truck in to the trans shop for the work, but I thought I would check with you guys and make sure I have all the requisite parts:
From PATC:
-Superior E4OD/4R100 Code 62 Pump correction package - purchased this for the nifty knurled bushing and the metal valve to replace the plastic one in the pump. I don't "think" I will have the trans guy mod the pump as per Superior's directions, as the Tugger kit pump mods are a bit different but apparently accomplish the same thing. With the VB mods the Tugger accomplishes, I figured it would be "un-wise" to mix up the pump mods between manufacturers.
-Superior Stay Put Filter Clip - I haven't ever had a problem with the filter dropping off but I figured "what the heck - might as well have it".
-Transgo Tugger Shift Kit
From RacerX:
-Proprietary HP front pump seal
-Separator plate/valve body gasket set (not included in Tugger kit)
-E4OD to transfer case gasket - The shop may pull trans/transfer case as one unit anyway, but at least I have the gasket if needed
From MAKCO, LLC:
-E4OD pump bolt washer gaskets - 9 of 'em.
-E4OD pump/stator support washer
-E4OD pump o-ring
-E4OD pump gasket
Other misc stuff:
2 cases of synthetic ATF
Motorcraft E4OD filter
reusable pan gasket (there is a cork one in there now)
4 TC nuts purchased form Ebay.
Oh, yeah, i have the TC too!
Any thing else you guys can think off that may be needed? I appreciate all the input with what parts would be required here so I could make my purchases.
I hope to get my new MLPS/TRS installed this weekend and see what that does, if anything. Thanks, guys.
From PATC:
-Superior E4OD/4R100 Code 62 Pump correction package - purchased this for the nifty knurled bushing and the metal valve to replace the plastic one in the pump. I don't "think" I will have the trans guy mod the pump as per Superior's directions, as the Tugger kit pump mods are a bit different but apparently accomplish the same thing. With the VB mods the Tugger accomplishes, I figured it would be "un-wise" to mix up the pump mods between manufacturers.
-Superior Stay Put Filter Clip - I haven't ever had a problem with the filter dropping off but I figured "what the heck - might as well have it".
-Transgo Tugger Shift Kit
From RacerX:
-Proprietary HP front pump seal
-Separator plate/valve body gasket set (not included in Tugger kit)
-E4OD to transfer case gasket - The shop may pull trans/transfer case as one unit anyway, but at least I have the gasket if needed
From MAKCO, LLC:
-E4OD pump bolt washer gaskets - 9 of 'em.
-E4OD pump/stator support washer
-E4OD pump o-ring
-E4OD pump gasket
Other misc stuff:
2 cases of synthetic ATF
Motorcraft E4OD filter
reusable pan gasket (there is a cork one in there now)
4 TC nuts purchased form Ebay.
Oh, yeah, i have the TC too!
Any thing else you guys can think off that may be needed? I appreciate all the input with what parts would be required here so I could make my purchases.
You must be registered for see images attach
I hope to get my new MLPS/TRS installed this weekend and see what that does, if anything. Thanks, guys.
anotheridi
Full Access Member
I think your list looks good, and could possibly be stickied. I should have ordered the seperator plate and valve body gaskets also but the ones in there were okay. Also the reuseable pan gasket? It's not pictured, i had to run out and buy mine as I put the rubber one that came with the filter on, I did not know the updated one was rubber coated metal, which needs to be installed with the updated pan, as the updated pan has a smooth mating surface. I'm not sure that pertains to you, but I let that one get by me and installed the rubber gasket that came with the filter with the new pan, as soon as the fluid was added it came right out, lol then off with the pan and to the parts store for the correct gasket .
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
All the parts have finally gotten here, so next step would be to schedule the truck in to the trans shop for the work, but I thought I would check with you guys and make sure I have all the requisite parts:
From PATC:
-Superior E4OD/4R100 Code 62 Pump correction package - purchased this for the nifty knurled bushing and the metal valve to replace the plastic one in the pump. I don't "think" I will have the trans guy mod the pump as per Superior's directions, as the Tugger kit pump mods are a bit different but apparently accomplish the same thing. With the VB mods the Tugger accomplishes, I figured it would be "un-wise" to mix up the pump mods between manufacturers.
-Superior Stay Put Filter Clip - I haven't ever had a problem with the filter dropping off but I figured "what the heck - might as well have it".
-Transgo Tugger Shift Kit
From RacerX:
-Proprietary HP front pump seal
-Separator plate/valve body gasket set (not included in Tugger kit)
-E4OD to transfer case gasket - The shop may pull trans/transfer case as one unit anyway, but at least I have the gasket if needed
From MAKCO, LLC:
-E4OD pump bolt washer gaskets - 9 of 'em.
-E4OD pump/stator support washer
-E4OD pump o-ring
-E4OD pump gasket
Other misc stuff:
2 cases of synthetic ATF
Motorcraft E4OD filter
reusable pan gasket (there is a cork one in there now)
4 TC nuts purchased form Ebay.
Oh, yeah, i have the TC too!
Any thing else you guys can think off that may be needed? I appreciate all the input with what parts would be required here so I could make my purchases.
You must be registered for see images attach
I hope to get my new MLPS/TRS installed this weekend and see what that does, if anything. Thanks, guys.
You should have everything you need here.
The filter clips are a good idea when using the E4 pan. If you change to the later 4R pan, this is not required. Ford corrected that little issue.
Rule of thumb on the separator plate gaskets. They can be reused if they are not damaged. This is why they are not included with your kit. My opinion, those gaskets are cheap,replace them.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Thanks for the reassurance on the parts needed! I have yet another problem though. I installed the new TRS today. I was very careful with replacing the harness plug and that went pretty well. I also cleaned up the terminals a bit more. I installed the new TRS and lined up the neutral line on the body of the TRS with the line on the TRS bushing and tightened it down. I'll be darned if I can get the truck to start now in park. It does in neutral (whew!) but I dinked around a couple of hours now and just can't get it to start in park. I appreciate any thoughts as to what may be wrong here. I can't see where you can really screw this up, after all, the TRS bushing has a couple of splines that must go in the grooves on the gear selector shaft. The TRS body only has so much range of adjustment within the aluminum bushings that the mounting bolts go through. Ugh!
hold the lever upwards and it will probably start.see the shift cable bracket by the mlps? look and you'll see it's adjustable.the clip pulls out.get that right with a helper holding the shift lever for ya and you'll get it to start in p again without holding up on the lever or just in n.
that transmission "is about to come alive!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGV9N8WxjjQ
that transmission "is about to come alive!"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGV9N8WxjjQ
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tbrumm
Full Access Member
Thanks! I tried pushing up on the lever when in the PARK position. Still no start. I will see if I can't get the cable adjusted on the morning. Found this adjustment procedure:
To adjust the E4OD Shift Cable
From inside the vehicle, place the gearshift lever (7210) in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (4R70W and E4OD). Hang a three-pound weight on the gearshift lever.
Raise vehicle on a hoist and position suitable safety stands under vehicle.
Remove the shift cable from the transmission lever ball stud.
Pull down the lock tab on the shift cable body.
Position the gearshift lever in the DRIVE position (C6) or the OVERDRIVE position (E4OD). This is three detents from the front-most lever position with the first position counting as one.
Connect the cable end fitting to the transmission lever ball stud.
Push up on the lock tab to lock the cable in the correctly adjusted position.
Remove safety stands and lower vehicle from hoist. Remove the three-pound weight from the gearshift lever.
CAUTION: Under no circumstances should the cable be adjusted in any position other than D (drive) for the C6 automatic transmission or (D) (overdrive) for the E4OD automatic transmission.
After making the adjustment, check for park engagement. Check the gearshift lever in all detent positions with the engine (6007) running to make sure correct detent/transmission actions. Readjust if necessary.
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Recheck the pins. Make sure you didn't wire the connector backwards. From your description, you might have a wire in the wrong place.
tbrumm
Full Access Member
Well, I tried adjusting the shift cable per the above procedure, I be darned if I can get the truck to start in park. It is going into neutral and all the gears just fine, and starts fine in neutral, but no start in park. Won;t even start holding up on the lever when in park. I am starting to wonder if my "new" TRS does not equal "good". Anybody have any other thoughts as to what might be wrong or what I might try? Thanks!
tbrumm
Full Access Member
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=31613&stc=1&d=1284305121
Okay, I rechecked and rechecked the wiring at the terminal and all wires are positioned in the connector exactly a shown on the above in the lowest wiring diagram. I "assumed" that although the third diagram corresponds with the older style connector I had before, the bottom one is how the updated TRS should be wired? Am I wrong about that and I should actually be wiring the connector as in the third diagram?
Okay, I rechecked and rechecked the wiring at the terminal and all wires are positioned in the connector exactly a shown on the above in the lowest wiring diagram. I "assumed" that although the third diagram corresponds with the older style connector I had before, the bottom one is how the updated TRS should be wired? Am I wrong about that and I should actually be wiring the connector as in the third diagram?
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tbrumm
Full Access Member
After more research, it seems that I should have kept the pins in their original locations as shown in the third diagram. Can anybody confirm that for me before I tear the connector apart? I also found several conflicting diagrams on the web for the mlps wires. Ugh!
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Follow the pin numbers. The old MLPS and your updated TRS use different locations for the functions. Follow diagram number three.
