FlexPlate help needed!

[Grady J]

First off thank you in advance for your help. Purchased my first diesel about a month ago, its a 1988 F-250 7.3 IDI NA, 176,000 miles and the C6 automatic transmission. Got it for $1500 knowing that it is a B**** to start. New batteries weren't holding a charge and the moron had autolite glow plugs. I did the 3g alternator swap and put in Motorcraft glow plugs and she started up great and batteries are now holding a charge. I THOUGHT my starting issue was solved until about a week ago when i got the dreaded grinding noise while starting. i was hoping it was just the drive gear on the starter but when i pulled the starter off and looked at the flexplate, well just look at the picture and see for yourself. the drive gear on the starter isn't chewed up at all and i'm kind of confused as to why it wouldn't be? isn't it supposed to be softer metal than the flexplate? So i guess the real question is, is the flexplate too far gone? I was just hoping to just clean it up with a file and reinstall the starter. Should i replace the starter?, I bench tested the starter and it seems to be working just fine but i'm no expert. I'd be happier than a two peckered goat if i could avoid dropping the tranny to replace the flexplate. What do you guys think?

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[FarmerFrank]

Your picture didn't come through but if it is the heavy 2 piece cast iron flex plate you could re-clock the starter ring like you would a manual transmission flywheel. Or if your uncomfortable doing that I have a good used one, or two, around.


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[riphip]

Looks like you have the cast iron flywheel. You will have to remove C6 to get to it and you then remove flywheel, apply heat to the ring gear and turn it 1/4 turn if not welded.
Or replace it if so desired. May need new flywheel bolts (I reused) but be sure you use proper sealant on threads reinstalling bolts as they do go thru the crank end and will leak if you do not.

 

[Grady J]

So either way I'm going to have to pull the transmission? If I relock the ring won't it just eventual stop on this worn spot again?

 

[OLDBULL8]

The starter ring gear is hardened, the teeth look good in the pic. The diesels only stop in 4 specific places. If your getting starter grinding, the starter Bendix is not extending far or fast enough. Check the wire from the fender solenoid to the starter, or the fender solenoid contacts could be carbonized/burnt. There cheap enough to just change it, about $26.

 

[FarmerFrank]

Ah I see the picture now. Yes those are worn. Like stated before a v8 diesel only stops in a few places so moving it over will make it better


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[Grady J]

the teeth look good in the pic. The diesels only stop in 4 specific places. If your getting starter grinding, the starter Bendix is not extending far or fast enough.

so if this were the case then would i see this same type of wear on each of the four spots where the ring gear stops? I only get the grinding noise every 3 or 4 start attempts.

 

[Grady J]

Yes those are worn. Like stated before a v8 diesel only stops in a few places so moving it over will make it better

Alright i guess this will be my plan going forward. I take it you've done this before, about how long did it take to complete?

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

I replaced the flexplate last summer (pretty sure it was just last summer lol might of been two summers ago) in my chip truck due to this as well.Sucks but at least the E4OD flexplate was only around $60 on amazon.It sure is nice to have no more grinding/blank starts.It almost got to the point where I would of had to turn the crank to start it lol.Luckily I didn't let it go that far.

 

[icanfixall]

Sad news is your ring gear is well worn out. Reclocking it will work for a while but it will happen again on this gear. I did this many years ago and it worked for a few years. My suggestion is to REPLACE the ring gear. they are not expensive and easily found. Check ebay. They are not welded to the heavy cast iron flywheels but they are welded to the pressed stamped flexplate. Our iddi engines could run either the light weight or the heavy flexplates. So far we have not found out why they came this way. I have a new ring gear too with new olts. EVERYONE on this forum knows me with spare parts. BTW the heavy cast iron flexplates are no longer available last I checked. When they were the cost was nearly 400 bucks.
A second idea is if you could find the thick spacer for the crank flange you could run the thin welded flexplate with the gear welded to it but... finding the thick spacer is difficult. Best I can suggest on the spacer is Brians Truck Shop in Leadhill Arkansas. He made mine for me.
PLEASE BE SURE TO USE A THREAD SEALANT ON THE CRANK TO FLEXPLATE BOLTS. They go thru the crank flange into the oily side of the crank case. You will have an oil leak is nothing is used.O

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I thought that the lightweight ones with the spacer only came with the E4OD transmissions.

 

[trackspeeder]

I thought that the lightweight ones with the spacer only came with the E4OD transmissions.

Yes, the tin flexplate came out in late 93. The stud pattern is the same between a C6 and E4, so they can be interchanged.

 

[Grady J]

I took off the inspection cover and sure enough the gears have the exact same wear on 4 different spots. so after doing a little research I decided to install a nippondenso gear reduction starter hoping that it will buy me some time before I have to replace the flexplate because I just started my kitchen remodel and I need a truck. So far I've probably started it up about 20 times with the new starter and I haven't had any gear grinding, fires right up every time. I know I'll have to replace the flexplate eventually but we'll see how long this lasts until that grinding comes back.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Bee careful. The bad spots tend to ruin a new starter.