Fixing up a 94 F350 4x4 turbo 7.3L

[Heide264]

Front body/radiator mounts look shot. Any experience with the Energy Suspension 4.4107G Body Mounts? It looks like I would need bolts on top of being a bit pricey for my preference (~$63 on amazon)... but I don't mind dropping the cash if its a one time fix.

EDIT: Also, any recommendations other than a junk yard for injection lines? I don't really want to drop $50/pop on 'em.

Thanks

 

[Heide264]

Got the new mounts in the mail. I had no idea how shot mine were until I saw the replacement ones. I'll replace em all over time... Just focusing on the radiator ones for now.

As an update, I got the radiator loose. He had an external heat exchanger in front of the radiator... Which was oddly plumbed inline of the radiator. I didn't realize our radiators cooled off whatever red fluid it was (didn't follow it to see whether it was power steering or ATF). Either way, I'll figure out how to route that correctly. I just need a friend to help lift the radiator out of the support.

Radiator support is ready to come out... Minus the body mounts. It looks like I can get a big ass breaker bar on the bolt head from the bottom and I can use my impact wrench with a 1' impact extension to hit the nut. I'll see how that goes. About to go tackle it shortly.

I know my updates and work is slow as tar. I'm not a mechanic of any form by trade, and this is definitely strange territory. Luckily it seems way more forgiving than my subaru so far, haha.

Somebody suggested I replace my steering damper while I am in there replacing the gearbox. Any suggestions on brands or anything to watch out for? I'd rather do it all at once if it means an extra $40 now rather than later.

As always, I appreciate any input.

 

[rwelli1001]

For the Injector lines. I went to a hydraulic shop to have one made to replace the # 8 line on mine. Turns out due to the type of flared ends on the line they could not duplicate my line. Ended up going back to my local International dealer for it. To my surprise they Actually had it and a glow plug harness in stock.
Had them in my hands that night for about $120.00 for one and $130.00 for the other.

 

[Heide264]

For the Injector lines. I went to a hydraulic shop to have one made to replace the # 8 line on mine. Turns out due to the type of flared ends on the line they could not duplicate my line. Ended up going back to my local International dealer for it. To my surprise they Actually had it and a glow plug harness in stock.
Had them in my hands that night for about $120.00 for one and $130.00 for the other.

Not too bad. I'm going to keep calling around to a few junk yards. Luckily, there is no rush to get this thing running. Thanks for the heads up. I did a bit of research and found that they aren't fun to (attempt to) make yourself, either.

So after my elaborate planning to tackle the engine mounts... The nut on the top of the radiator support crumbled while I was matching an impact socket to it. So, I defaulted to any means possible to get the radiator support loose. I ended up with a combination of an air starved impact wrench (have to use a whimpy 1/4" extension hose to get to the truck that can't take more than 80psi at the regulator - ordering a real one now), a breaker bar, and an assortment of hammers - the 4lb deadblow being my personal favorite.

This is what came off the bottom of the mount for each side:

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The front support now moves around, but I'm too whimpy to lift it out or the radiator. I'll bribe a poor friend with beer and cigars in the near future. I'm pretty glad that I bought those body mounts after seeing these.


Any suggestions as to handling the a/c condenser so I can still work on the engine bay easily? I was going to pull out the radiator first, then try to remove the front clip around it... Then either carefully bend it upwards or downwards. I'd rather not empty the whole system to remove it (mainly to protect the seals in the system), but I have a feeling I may as well. Let's be honest, it probably doesn't work currently, anyhow. Thoughts?

EDIT: Also, is the injection line 'spider' similar across turbo to non-turbo motors? How about the econolines?

 

[79jasper]

Only difference is the vans have a solid non ferret (?) Fitting on cylinder one. Instead, it's on cylinder 4.


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[Heide264]

Only difference is the vans have a solid non ferret (?) Fitting on cylinder one. Instead, it's on cylinder 4.

Ah good to know. All lines the same from 6.9s to 7.3s? It looks like in the service manual the P/N for 7.3L turbos and 7.3L N/As are the same, so I guess that rules out that possible mismatch.

That fitting is for a fancy timing meter, correct? If so, is it a common failure point or anything?

 

[79jasper]

No failures of the line or ferret thing.
I can't remember for sure on 7.3 vs 6.9.
I wanna say they can be used, but are a tad different.

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[Heide264]

No failures of the line or ferret thing.
I can't remember for sure on 7.3 vs 6.9.
I wanna say they can be used, but are a tad different.

Great. Appreciate the input. I'll be weary of the 6.9 lines and read around if needed.

Hopefully, the previous owner did a poor job with his epoxy job (I mean, in all fairness, its leaking one way or another) so it won't be too bad to get off. I'm assuming that something isn't in great shape under it, however. I'll get a better look at what I have to work with once I manage to bribe a friend.

Just got my last keg to finish my revamped beer brewing system. That has a bit of priority over the truck due to the amount of work involved... and the fact that working on the truck outside in the summer is nicely complemented by a cold beverage of sorts. Either way, should only add a few day delay.

Thanks again for the input guys.

 

[snicklas]

If I remember right, 6.9 lines are slightly (like a few mm) shorter than the 7.3 lines. The 7.3 injectors were sunk slightly deeper into the head for emission reasons........

 

[79jasper]

If I remember right, 6.9 lines are slightly (like a few mm) shorter than the 7.3 lines. The 7.3 injectors were sunk slightly deeper into the head for emission reasons........

That's what I was thinking.

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[TahoeTom]

http://www.thedieselstore.com/template/index.php
These guys sell individual injection lines for about $50 each. You should be able to get a set at a junk yard for $50 or less.

 

[Black dawg]

line for cyl 2 is different on the factory turbo motors. it is bent differently to clear the air box

 

[rwelli1001]

Here is the link to the injector lines complete with pictures
http://usdieselparts.com/c-800734-f...injection-lines-89-93-ford-6-9l-7-3l-idi.html