Finished IP and injector replacement but now missing

[rkpatt]

First, thanks to all who have given me advice for the IP R&R on my 1994 IDI 7.3. Because of this advice, there were really no problems taking it out or going back in with the rebuilt pump . The engine started up after a few tries . It is running rough . It could be way out of time even though I matched the marks but it seems more like it is missing . I have cracked the lines a found 4 cylinders (1,2,3,7) not to have any significant RPM drop. The injectors are brand new Delphi code E equivs . This engine ran fine on all 8 cyls until I had IP and injector problems .

My plan is to check the bad cylinders with by swaping an injector from a good cylinder a testing by cracking lines . Here I go again ..... . Any suggestions are greatly appreciated . - Thanks

 

[highest_vision]

Have you driven it? Changed the fuel filter? Might help to take it for a good, hard drive to see if it will clean up.
James

 

[rkpatt]

The filter is new and I have driven it . I will try the injecor swap on one bad one first . If I don't find any change I think maybe that I got a bad pump . Also , is it possible that the fuel pump timing gear could have gotten moved one tooth or something like that during the removal/installation process and would make it run this way (I did not remove the cover during the R&R ). I wiped the faces of the gear through the holes in the cover but did not lift it up .

 

[f-two-fiddy]

Make sure you got all of the coppergaskets out with the old inj's.
Spray a little non-flamable penatrating oil around the threads if each inj, and look for bubbles while running. If the new inj's are not sealed properly, it'll ruin the inj in very short order.

 

[Agnem]

Yup. I'm inclined to think something isn't sealed up properly.

 

[rkpatt]

Do you mean something like WD-40 ? I tried some ( the engine was not hot and didn't see any more bubbles than the tiny ones when you spray that stuff . It just trickles down into the threads .

Could a bad pump have low pressure on just a couple of cyls ?

Thanks

Make sure you got all of the coppergaskets out with the old inj's.
Spray a little non-flamable penetrating oil around the threads if each inj, and look for bubbles while running. If the new inj's are not sealed properly, it'll ruin the inj in very short order.

 

[dbarilow]

When I cracked my injectors the fuel pooled around the bottom of the injector base and I saw bubbles comming out of the threads idle was real rough replaced the copper gasket on the one leaking and she smoothed out

 

[Dieselguy123]

Runaway?

Well I have been reading the posts and I have seen a few talking about a runaway condition.....What is this and how is it caused? I am just curious.

 

[rkpatt]

An update here. I needed the truck for work the next few for so I ( reluctantly) took it over to shop who sold me the rebuilt pump for timing and troubleshooting . They told me that there was loose line at the pump (a lower one which required R&R of some upper lines to get to it . ) which was causing the miss. I don't see how thats possible as I was very careful about tightening them before I reinstalled the pump an I didn't not the fuel leak . Anyway ,$100 later, the miss is gone and the pump is timed (although I didn't see a noticeable change of the match marks) .

I smelled some fuel vapors in the AC on the was home so I wiped the valley pan with some paper tower and did get some fuel on on it. I don't know if this was lefy over from them working on the lines or there is still something leaking . With the engine cool, I will wash off the back of the pump and valley pan with some purple degreaser solution and rinse with water then check for leaks again. Hopefully the problem is solved.

Thanks

 

[rkpatt]

I washed out the engine compartment with purple degreaser and water ( engine cold of course). No smells after washing everything an ketting it dry . After it all dried out I placed a *** of paper towels under the pump so that could detect any leaks. I have driven the truck around for a few hours and now the paper towel has a diesel odor (but not wet . I presume that either the pump or the lines are leaking . I don't want to touch anything until I talk to the shop next week because I want them to be responsible . Any suggestions ? - Thanks

 

[DeepRoots]

suggestions?

do the work yourself, and/or get used to a little leaking.
I've never gotten it to where EVERYTHING is 100% leakfree. You can get close tho.

 

[rkpatt]

I have driven the truck for a week now. I am really impressed by the increase performance. I can detect the diesel fuel odor but still don't see any visible evidence of the leak . Hopefully some dust will accumulate at the leak area and leave a visible stain/trail . I wish I could us a UV light or something similar to find it. I really want ot make sure that it is not anything on the pump side of the lines .

 

[Agnem]

Depending on how bad you want to see it, dust your engine with talcum powder. The fuel will make the powder stick and you'll find your leak.

 

[rkpatt]

I want to get this leak resolved to make sure that it is not anything on the pump side ( leaking gasket or seals , cracked housing, etc. ). I plan on getting the truck on a WVO ( waste vegetable oil) system conversion but want to make sure that the "new" rebuilt inrection pump is absolutely fine. Once WVO has been run through the IP, I doubt that they would make good on on the warranty for any problem (even if unrelated to WVO use)

Thanks for the hint and I will try it . I was even thinking about running some UV AC leak dye mixed in diesel through the IP then checking with a UV light .

Depending on how bad you want to see it, dust your engine with talcum powder. The fuel will make the powder stick and you'll find your leak.