Fass fuel water sep. or the air dog water sep.

HiHorse

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Installation is easy. The FASS/Airdog systems are solid reliable too. I prefer the cleaner look and the ability to drain or change filters without opening the hood. They are set at 16psi from the manufacturer, but you can order a pressure spring to lower them to 8psi for the IDI IP.
 

bigoilburner20

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Installation is easy. The FASS/Airdog systems are solid reliable too. I prefer the cleaner look and the ability to drain or change filters without opening the hood. They are set at 16psi from the manufacturer, but you can order a pressure spring to lower them to 8psi for the IDI IP.

well where would you put them on the truck? and the lowest one i seen was the 100 gphseems like to much
 

HiHorse

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I mount them to the drivers side of the frame (outside), just in front of the box. I also build a rock guard shield for the front to make sure filters don't get poked by a rock. The FASS system is 90gph or 150gph. I don't see any need for the larger system.
 

RLDSL

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I mount them to the drivers side of the frame (outside), just in front of the box. I also build a rock guard shield for the front to make sure filters don't get poked by a rock. The FASS system is 90gph or 150gph. I don't see any need for the larger system.

Little lesson in pump dynamics. THAT IS TOO MUCH FUEL FLOW . even though the pressure is reduced, if you are stuffing that much volume at a mechanical diesel pump, you will end up changing your output pressure and timing. You would have to install a bypass type fuel regulator that basically takes the extra flow of fuel and diverts it past the injection pump into the return line back to the tank.... but WAIT the return line is only 5/16, it was never designed to handle that kind of volume, so you have the equivilant of clamping down on the return line with a set of vice grips, OH yeah, it'll make your truck run faster all right... to the point where it blows out the governer and you get a runaway ( the old vice grip trick is an OLD freighthauler trick to make gutless companny trucks run faster, restrict the return line to increase pressure through the pump, works great .. right up till you blow out the pump.

Too much of a good thing is not always good. To run that much volume you would have to basically tripple the size of the return lines to teh tank, and I mean ALL the wai into the tank, meaning remove teh tank lid and solder in new metal lines going in so there are no bottle necks to allow for teh free flow return, and all of this is comopletely moot because you would be spending a fortune and modifying the snot out of your fuel lines for an overpriced pump that does your truck absolutely zero good and in fact is overworking the blamed thing.

Our injection pumps do not require a lift pump to have fuel stuffed down their throats to run. Ive run with my pump turned OFF and gone 45 miles and further before even realizing it waasnt on Generally I dont even realize it till I get on a good size hill, It would surprise you that many diesels will be equipped with similar pumps and not even HAVE a lift pump. Same goes with the VE pumps used on the Cummins and a number of others.

The lift pump is only there to get fuel TO the injection pump, not to shove it THROUGH the injection pump. You guys get mixed up with old carbureters where if you ran a double pumper and strapped a huge fuel pump to it , you could basically stuuff gas straight from the tank and almost bypass the fuel bowl and go straight down the venturies into the manifold and squeel tires, or electronic injection where fuel volume is controlled by the lift pump and the computer and injectors basically just let the stuff in, , but this is a mechanical diesel, it works differently. All teh fuel has to do is be presented to the pump on a consistant basis, the injection pump does the rest., the only reason teh lift pump is even needed is due to the distance between the tanks and the front of the engine and how much higher the engine can get when climbing hills
On those facet pumps, having a low pressure reading at full throttle means nothing, there is PLENTY of fuel there. I was up in Leadville Colorado oulling my 5er a couple years ago grossing over 18k over some of the steepest passes in the country going up over 11,000 ft and I was going as fast as the the curves in the road were marked ( and quite frankly was sane ) zero shortage of power , Right up on peak boost, so I cant imagine how anything more could do anything but harm.

And don't go thinking I'm some kind of sissy who just doesnt like anything big and fast, you're talking to a guy who used to own a 72 Kenworth that would do 118 mph... fully loaded. I just dont like stuff that doesnt work. Ive seen too many engines trashed.
 

justinray

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RLDSL is correct. Pressure is just a measurement of restriction. Same with boost. As long as there is sufficient flow and not a vacuum, you're doing fine.
 

idiabuse

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I sure do notice a huge lack of performance when my system is getting clogged. Volume delivery just disappears when trying to climb hills or staying at a steady 70mph.
When accelerating from a dead stop I can watch the psi gauge just go to 0 truck will still run.
I do lose a huge amount of torque.
Once the filters are all flowing and psi is steady the power just hangs on instead of falling on its face on a gear change.

I have bypass regulator and completely revamped fuel system that works but I am in the process of upgrading both primary and secondary filters, want to use larger style filters for more capacity and longer intervals and mostly for better free flow during use.

My Primary is a Fram HPG1 and in the last 2000 miles I have changed that filter 4 times due to a dirty batch of fuel.

Time to getter a much larger primary filter.



Javier
 

RLDSL

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I sure do notice a huge lack of performance when my system is getting clogged. Volume delivery just disappears when trying to climb hills or staying at a steady 70mph.
When accelerating from a dead stop I can watch the psi gauge just go to 0 truck will still run.
I do lose a huge amount of torque.
Once the filters are all flowing and psi is steady the power just hangs on instead of falling on its face on a gear change.

I have bypass regulator and completely revamped fuel system that works but I am in the process of upgrading both primary and secondary filters, want to use larger style filters for more capacity and longer intervals and mostly for better free flow during use.

My Primary is a Fram HPG1 and in the last 2000 miles I have changed that filter 4 times due to a dirty batch of fuel.

Time to getter a much larger primary filter.



Javier

If your filter is clogged , then your injection pump is in the position of being in a vacuum as mentioned, Thats not a delivery issue, thats a restriction issue. If Im not horrible mistaken, thats what the sensor in the top of the filter head senses for is a vacuum in the line between the head and the injection pump . and triggers the filter light.
When you get a junk batch theres not much more you can do aside from pump off the tank ( I made teh fatal mistake of filling my large tank before heading north in the winter once... yeah, really dumb, but it had been a long time since I'd been up north . My switchover valve was jammed and I ended up pulling into a truckstop in Illinois and having the bed tank pumped off *OUCH* but it had to be done or I would have been out in the cold changing filters every 40 miles till 130 gallons got burned up . It would have cost me more in filters and a possible tow, than it did to loose the fuel. Instead I got off changing 2 more filters and ran the rest of teh trip. ( and I was pulling a 32 footer )
 

LCAM-01XA

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If your filter is clogged , then your injection pump is in the position of being in a vacuum as mentioned, Thats not a delivery issue, thats a restriction issue. If Im not horrible mistaken, thats what the sensor in the top of the filter head senses for is a vacuum in the line between the head and the injection pump . and triggers the filter light.
Aye, that's how it works. Or, should work, as I've never seen mine come on - I know the light and wiring are good, dunno about sensor, but I'm sure I'll find out when she starts bogging down soon after a refuel w/o the light coming on.

When you get a junk batch theres not much more you can do aside from pump off the tank ( I made teh fatal mistake of filling my large tank before heading north in the winter once... yeah, really dumb, but it had been a long time since I'd been up north . My switchover valve was jammed and I ended up pulling into a truckstop in Illinois and having the bed tank pumped off *OUCH* but it had to be done or I would have been out in the cold changing filters every 40 miles till 130 gallons got burned up . It would have cost me more in filters and a possible tow, than it did to loose the fuel. Instead I got off changing 2 more filters and ran the rest of teh trip. ( and I was pulling a 32 footer )
What was the issue, junk fuel or just summer blend that gelled on you in the cold? If it was the latter, couldn't you have just added some "Diesel 911" or equivalent and wait till it's done doing its thing, w/o pumping out the tank?
 

RLDSL

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What was the issue, junk fuel or just summer blend that gelled on you in the cold? If it was the latter, couldn't you have just added some "Diesel 911" or equivalent and wait till it's done doing its thing, w/o pumping out the tank?

It was about 15% or worse water and more crap and algae than you could shake a stick at ( and the tank had recently been thoroughly cleaned out off the truck, so it was ALL from that batch ).. I could possibly get by with burning that swill around here, but drop down to -20 and forget it no matter what I threw in the tank, andI had thrown everything under the sun in by that point ( I'm used to running big trucks in the arctic, so I know tricks for getting fuel to flow that would make most folks cringe... and I tried them all ). It was so bad that the clean out pump in the shop jammed about 3/4 way through and they had to stop and take it apart to dislodge all the crud in the rotors before pumping out the rest of the tank. It ended up taking over 3 hours..It was probably the worst looking swill Ive ever seen.
 

LCAM-01XA

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( I'm used to running big trucks in the arctic, so I know tricks for getting fuel to flow that would make most folks cringe... and I tried them all )
Aye, things like taking a propane torch to the filters and steel fuel lines, and lighting small camp fire under the tanks? :sly

But it seems to me that your mistake wasn't filling up the big tank w/ southern fuel before heading north, but rather filling up the whole thing from one place that just so happened to sell crap fuel - which is not really a mistake either, it can happen to anyone anywhere - well maybe the water will freeze in the storage tanks in the north, but algae would still get pumped right in your vehicle just the same... Tis why I think it silly when some folks remove the two factory tanks just for the heck of it and replace them w/ one big tank - true the system has the same capacity and less parts to fail, but now if something happens there's no fuel reserve to switch to and keep on going.
 

RLDSL

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Aye, things like taking a propane torch to the filters and steel fuel lines, and lighting small camp fire under the tanks? :sly

But it seems to me that your mistake wasn't filling up the big tank w/ southern fuel before heading north, but rather filling up the whole thing from one place that just so happened to sell crap fuel - which is not really a mistake either, it can happen to anyone anywhere - well maybe the water will freeze in the storage tanks in the north, but algae would still get pumped right in your vehicle just the same... Tis why I think it silly when some folks remove the two factory tanks just for the heck of it and replace them w/ one big tank - true the system has the same capacity and less parts to fail, but now if something happens there's no fuel reserve to switch to and keep on going.

Ive still got the rear tank, its what I normally use as my reserve, but the switchover valve got so froze up and clogged with crap , there was no clearing the blamed thing in those temps, even after being in teh shop for a few hours. Thats whats called seriously boned. . I had 10 gallons of unleaded dumped in the big tank along with coupious amounts of everything under the sun, I'd tried the torch ( unfortunately cant start a bonfure under the tank, its up in the bed, that would be heck on wiring ), I tried everything . Sometimes you just have to call it and dump the tank.
Ive got bum fuel up north too( and narrowly avoided a few batches as well, I remember seeing one small truckstop owner in Nebraska standing out back with his storage tank lid open with a garden hose poked down it cutting his fuel :eek: They used to have aggitators in the storage tanks for winter, so that would keep water mixed in nicely . No way I was going to bother reporting the guy, local law was probably his brother in law. No thanks, I'd like folks to be able to find my grave site.
 

bigoilburner20

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And don't go thinking I'm some kind of sissy who just doesnt like anything big and fast, you're talking to a guy who used to own a 72 Kenworth that would do 118 mph... fully loaded. I just dont like stuff that doesnt work. Ive seen too many engines trashed.


rldsl you sound like my father in law lol man oh man i would have loved to be in that truck and no i diont think ur a sissy. well im getting alot of great info so should i just stick withh a facet duralift?? i mean at wot 32 gph would still be plenty correct?
 

killen1

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Ok so not to revive an old thread would anyone see a reason to have a sump at the bottom or the tank? Kinda wanted to remove the whole sending unit idea to a sump so I would not have to worry so much about running out of fuel.
 

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