Engine removal questions

fordhorse

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I have a 93 7.3 and am pulling it to reseal. Before I start I need to know if I can pull it with the turbo or if I need to remove it first. I also need to know where the lift point would be since i cant use a carb plate and any other helpful info or tips. I have removed and rebuilt a gas engines before but diesel is new territory. Thanks
 

NO_SPRK

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Turbo will need to be removed. There are factory hooks bolted to the intake manifolds/cylinder heads. I like to remove radiator too.

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dunk

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Never pulled a diesel so can't comment on that aside from that there should be lift rings on it unless someone removed them. I pull the hood and rad support to get engines out of these trucks. Not too much work and makes it much easier to go straight in and out. Better visibility for lining up mounts and easier access to get everyone else apart and back together.
 

NO_SPRK

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Radiator support? Take the front wheels off if you need to. Too much work. The radiator itself is easy to remove. Just heavy

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jas88

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I like to pull the core support as well in addition to taking off the front tires and letting it down on blocks. I just don't like that 1200 lb. motor that high in the air. Also, if you pull the core support, you can leave the hood in place.
 

cpdenton

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Pull the starter and the oil filter too. It gets you some more clearance around the engine crossmember. Also, the crossover pipe will need to come off.
 

NO_SPRK

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Once again ive never pulled a starter or oil filter to remove a engine. .

I always pull the hood and radiator. Slide a liftle forward and lift out

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NO_SPRK

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These engines are not as heavy as you think. Under 950lbs

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89Laredo

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I read somewhere that they were like 1300.
My 6.9 was a total pita, I'd pay someone to do it if I could. .

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NO_SPRK

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Ive had 3 complete idi long blocks in my truck for scrap and I was surprised to see that they weighed mid 800 pounds each

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icanfixall

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When I pulled my engine I removed the fan, radiater, starter, oil filter and left the hood on the truck. I connected very close to the intake air horn and really pulled ******* the chains. They were almost straight across the engine. No need to remove the hood. When I installed the engine I removed the hood springs so the hood would go back towards the windshield more but. I needed a 2x4 to prop it open. Just placed that in the battery tray. worked fine. Yes, pulling that much weight up over the core support is frightening but with the correct hoist its no problem. I used a big commercial engine hoist for that. Not a horrible freight lite duty hoist for that job.
 

jaluhn83

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I've never pulled the radiator support, but I've also always used a forklift, tractor or heavy a-frame to pull the engine - if I was using the standard engine hoist I'd probably do it that way.

I've pulled/installed motors with the starter & oil filter, and with the trans installed too. The key is getting the angle right and having the right gear. Last time I used a frame rigged off the front end loaded with 2 cables and a winch - made it real easy to lower and rotate it right into position.
 

riotwarrior

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Every time I pull engines in these trucks, I completely remove the entire front clip.

It's actually less difficult than just the rad support IMHO, it offers a tremendous amount of room and an added plus you can clear out the debris from cowl drains and many other little things.

Makes painting frame easy makes access to engine to trans bolts easy, makes the entire job a piece of cake.

Dig around for my brown bruin build thread and check it out. It's in my mind easier and better than over the rad support or removing rad support.

JM2CW

Al
 

idi_econoline

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Hey, smile, fellas! Life could be worse! Guess what I'm doing this week???????? LOL LOL LOL LOL

This pic is from last time.... or was it the time before????? :frustrate :(


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