Electric Vacuum pump vs Hydro-boost swap

[John_piv]

You can source an electric vacuum pump that will work, but all the ones I've seen that are substantial enough cost more than a hydroboost setup! I can't remember but there was something available in the medium duty truck market. I think it was in the $400-500 range. Been a while since I looked.

When you do the hydroboost conversion just get a replacement e-pump for a mid 2000s F350 to run the HVAC controls.

What year is the truck? Pre 92 used vacuum for the cruise control and I don't know if the small e pump will work with that or not. I've never tried.

'87, so I'll end up needing a small pump at least for the HVAC/Cruise

 

[John_piv]

Lots of variable, mainly that the quality control blows these days. So some people will have good experiences and others will not.

Another factor is mileage driven. "2 years on my pump" could mean 2k or 50k, all depends on the driver. I've found that wear items last longer on my pickup for this reason. Even when I daily drove her I wouldn't put more than 15k a year on it. (Cause I'm allergic to driving long distances or times to work and back. Only 20 mins to work, no traffic, and 18 miles. And we barely travel.)

I drive around 100 miles round trip every day. Probably got 2000 miles out of my mechanical pump

 

[John_piv]

Alright, so now I get to start scouring for a HB unit. Do I need a Ford/Super Duty booster specifically? Like I mentioned earlier, I have an Astro van booster on my bronco; but had to make new AN lines with adapters. Granted, that was a full swap from manual steering and manual brakes.

Pictures of the HB units almost all look the same. Are there any major differences that would stop me from using a Ch*vy booster?

 

[hacked89]

Alright, so now I get to start scouring for a HB unit. Do I need a Ford/Super Duty booster specifically? Like I mentioned earlier, I have an Astro van booster on my bronco; but had to make new AN lines with adapters. Granted, that was a full swap from manual steering and manual brakes.

Pictures of the HB units almost all look the same. Are there any major differences that would stop me from using a Ch*vy booster?

Can’t speak for Chevy but you can buy any reman booster such as from Napa, rock auto etc, including the master cyclinder if you would like but otherwise modify your current. Then I have a video on YouTube that walks you through it step by step and shows part numbers for the hoses .

 

[u2slow]

Back when I did it, I got the ford motorcraft one because it came with all the pieces. Most of the remans don't. Somebody in another thread said they got a reman from Napa that came with the intermediate pushrod.

 

[hacked89]

Back when I did it, I got the ford motorcraft one because it came with all the pieces. Most of the remans don't. Somebody in another thread said they got a reman from Napa that came with the intermediate pushrod.

That’s me. It specifically had a tag on it “this pushrod is not servicable, removing it will void the warranty”

 

[John_piv]

Can’t speak for Chevy but you can buy any reman booster such as from Napa, rock auto etc, including the master cyclinder if you would like but otherwise modify your current. Then I have a video on YouTube that walks you through it step by step and shows part numbers for the hoses .

Main reason I didn't want a reman is price. New booster is what, ~$300? The last one I got was about $25 from a pick and pull and worked like a champ. But that got a bunch of adapters and a Chevy MC to go with it. They all look about the same.

 

[u2slow]

Main reason I didn't want a reman is price. New booster is what, ~$300? The last one I got was about $25 from a pick and pull and worked like a champ. But that got a bunch of adapters and a Chevy MC to go with it. They all look about the same.

I don't know if an F-Superduty booster is available new anymore.

That booster leaves an easy upgrade path to the matching disc/disc MC later. Or, you already got it if you bought used.