E4OD woes

[1994 Turbo]

So i've been having some serious issues with the cooler lines. Tried using rubber line to fix where the steel leaks, nada. Double clamped 5/16 transmission cooler line onto the stock steel and it just leaks. What's everyone else do? I can't be the only one having this issue. Also, What about the dipstick nut on the 7.3 PSD? Mine has been leaking some serious oil and i just got around to crawling under it this morning to see the nut is completely gone and the piece is about ready to fall into the pan. I don't have time to pull the pan right now, so is there any way to fix that?

 

[direwulf23]

Wow, you're lucky it hasn't fallen in already.
There is a repair kit that comes with a new nut, adapter O Ring, dipstick tube o ring and a brush to hold the adapter from falling.
Diesel O Ring has them for about $60. I think I saw it on Riffraff for a little cheaper.
I just tried this job and mine ended up falling in! I bought the adapter replacement part from Strictly Diesel. The part is very well made and super easy to install with no chance of problems. However! It FPS coast $299, $365-ish with over night shipping. It'll save your ass but it's not cheap.

 

[direwulf23]

As for the E4OD fix the best advice I have for fixing that is get a ZF5.

 

[lotzagoodstuff]

Strange that you can't get the cooler lines to stop leaking, I would get them very clean, scuff them up with some sandpaper, clean and dry them, and install the new lines as dry as you can. Or you could shitcan the stock cooler and upgrade, the stock cooler is pretty crummy.

Be careful with your dipstick adapter, remember there's an oring on the blind side of it.

 

[greenskeeper]

If you are trying to go from metal to rubber lines did you try to flare each end of the metal lines, slip the rubber past that and then clamp?

 

[OLDBULL8]

What kind of clamps are you using, if it's the ordinary gear clamps, if you tighten them to tite they will leak. What ya need are the full circle gear clamps.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

If you are trying to go from metal to rubber lines did you try to flare each end of the metal lines, slip the rubber past that and then clamp?

^^^ This, but I'll put a twist on it: do only 1/4 of a standard SAE double-flare on the lines you're trying to fix. And by that I mean put your "bubbling" die on and start tightening, and when the die is halfway down to touching the clamp bars that hold the line you stop. What that does is create a partial bubble at the end of the line, this is enough to hold the hose from slipping yet it does not have the sharp edge a fully completed double-flare does to cut into your hose from the inside. Actually even a fully completed "bubbling" step will form a fairly sharp edge, that's why I say stop halfway thru. Then do like OldBull says and use better clamps, those labeled by the parts stores as "fuel injection" clamps (they have a machine screw that tightens them, not a worm-drive setup) will work great.

Also use TOC (transmission oil cooler) hose, this thing has pretty thick walls and seals very well plus it holds up to high pressure (which you shouldn't have in those lines, but still).

Finally, follow lotzagoodstuff's advice and upgrade your cooler while you're at it.

 

[bbjordan]

Check the metal line for holes.

Check your steel lines thoroughly. This is what I found on mine. The line was rattling around in the bracket that was too loose. I replaced the steel line and put a little piece of rubber between the line and bracket.

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[LCAM-01XA]

Rubber will hold moisture and road spray from any liquid deicer the road crews may be using during the wintertime, it's a recipe for a rusted out line. Instead use some glue-lined heat shrink tubing used for sealing wire connections, once you warm that up not only will it wrap around the line tightly but will also seal itself against ingress of any undesirable liquids. Do like 2-3 layers of that, then put the clamp on top of it, should be good for the long haul.

 

[1994 Turbo]

I think what i'm going to do is tap into the drag racing know how my father enstiled in me when i was younger. I'm going to come off the transmission with AN line (if you don't know what this is google it) and then i'm going to add a new cooler behind the grille from summit racing. As for the dipstick i'll probably just cough up the cash for a strictly diesel adaptor. I may have to see if they have a patent on that. Because i have access to a 3 axis CNC and could easily copy the design and offer it to you guys at a much cheaper cost, pending demand.

 

[trackspeeder]

When you come off the tranny with your new fittings. Do not remove the rear fitting in the case. This is a check valve to prevent the converter from draining.