E4OD Woes...?

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Hey guys...

Buddy of mine has a '93 f250 4x4 ext. cab with the 7.3 idi. Lately the trans has been acting up a bit.

The truck is stock and has 255k on the odometer.. its a work truck and has been used as such. A few weeks back, we had 3k# of block in the bed for a short drive (12 miles or so...) Went to pull into the drive and the truck didn't want to make it up the grade... felt as if it had a high stall converter.. just didn't want to pull.

Backed down the drive and got a little momentum and made it up no problem... but ever since then... almost every time I take off from a stop, it feels as if the converter is stalling out. I don't think the trans is slipping as it doesn't free rev and snap back into gear as you'd expect.. it just feels like the converter has a much higher stall then it does. Sometimes it doesn't really start to pull until near 2200-2300rpm and that's unloaded.

Other then that, it drives great.. shifts smooth... doesn't skip shift or hunt for gears... doesn't shift hard in any gear... no codes that I know of yet... and the fluid is full and clean with no burnt smell.

The truck pulls great in reverse... and has no problem once its moving.

Ideas?

Planning on a rebuild but want to check off the little things first before diving into it.

Thanks guys
-Chris

 

[dieseldoug]

Before the rebuild on my E40D (1991 F250) I had similar problems. But, nothing during the rebuild and upgrade showed conditions that would cause those problems.

When I used my scanner it always showed a TPS fault code, but voltage tests always gave readings that were in range. I even had the guys at the rebuild shop check, and they found no problems.

After much digging in old Oil Burner threads I found one titled What's a FIPL dated 03-02-2005. The heading said it was put together by Bobby, aka turbo69. At the end of the post was this:

DIESEL FIPL SENEOR INFO

DATE 1992

REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate

RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL

PART NUMBER
F2TZ-98989-C

I'm going to check with the local Ford dealer tomorrow to see what they have in stock for a replacememt before I start towing my trailer this spring.

After a quick check the Ford PARTS # is 9B989 (CX1448)

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Hmm.. I've heard that typically that causes a hard shift as well which I don't have... but I'll look into it more for sure.

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[A48WillyzGuy]

I thought I'd add to this, since it is my transmission that is in question.

We changed the fluid in it and it has made the problem less erratic. We are now absolutely sure it is starting out in 2nd gear when in " D " but will shift decent when running through them manually.

I plan on cleaning out the plugs and contacts when I can get some time. We'll see what happens.

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[trackspeeder]

Check the TCM relay.

 

[icanfixall]

The tps is nothing more than a rheostat type switch rubbing on a wire grid. That grid wears out and you end up with all kinds of hell. Replacing at or around 60,000 miles is a great idea because just connecting a digital voltmeter is not going to show the problems. A special scanner is whats needed and those are really expensive. Much cheater to replace the tps. The factory setting on the center wire key on but engine off on a warm engine is .96 to 1.2 volts at idle setting. Lower setting is a softer shift and the higher is a firmer shift.

 

[travisjulian]

I went to put a new one in my 93 350 7.3. Trsted plug first all good. Went to set values and no mater how I adjust it it wont go past .890 volts. If it is off and moved goes all the way to 5 I have tryed spinning it then putting on but it is the. To high. Is it possible for the arm of throttle to have moved which would make it I. Correct. And how do I adjust. I also adjust idle which is perfect now and it sets lower .4 to .5

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[A48WillyzGuy]

Updates for anyone following:

I got both electrical plugs cleaned and greased on the sides of the trans. This did seem to make my "stalling" problem less severe, but it still is starting out in 2nd when placed in "D". It is acting slightly different now though, because it now starts to pull like normal (like it wants to drive normally and then realizes there is a problem, almost) and then stalls out until it can struggle up to about 10mph. Then it drives just like it should. Still works great when shifting manually.

I put a new TPS sensor on and set it to 1.19 while warm. I probably need to bump that down just a hair, but anyways. The max voltage reads 3.99 then just before the lever reaches WOT, the multimeter reads "0L" which I don't know how to interpret, but I can deal with that.

I put a new TCM relay in it, just because I don't know how to test a relay. It hasn't made any difference that I can tell.

Something else that I did not mention before is that the OD light (and button) has not worked since I bought the truck in September. I assumed it was just the button, so I put a new one in and it still does not light up or engage/disengage OD.

I have tracked down a ZF5 and most of the parts that I would need to do that swap. I hate to drop that kind of money on a whole new setup when I feel like this trans is so stinking close to operating correctly. Every time I work on it and it makes little-to-no difference it is making the swap sound increasingly appealing though.

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

always so messy these threads seem to get.
AcIdBuRn02ZTS, and A48WillyzGuy are you the same person? you posted an update as to imply you might be and you sig shows you've got a '93 like the original poster.
anywho,the trouble is your MLPS and or connection.when this sensor fails or this plug gets dirty,it can cause incorrect gear starts.
with the 92-94 trucks,the od light will go 1/2 bright when there is a power issue causing wrong gear starts.


travisjulian,
your in the wrong thread altogether.your FIPL/TPS adjustment/reading issue sounds like.........ah,actually please start a new thread.it won't help the two (or one with dual screen names?) out here.plus others shouldn't be lead to believe the FILP/TPS has anything to do with incorrect gear starts.i don't mean to be rude,but nothing good can come from you asking about a separate issue here.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Lol..

Sorry for the confusion... A48WillyzGuy owns the truck in question... I was asking for him.

and as stated above, the OD light/button don't work even though they have been replaced and no codes are being thrown.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I thought I'd add to this, since it is my transmission that is in question.

. A48WillyzGuy owns the truck in question...AcIdBuRn02ZTS I was asking for him.

Now then that is straightened out, less confusing.
No matter what you say, there is/are codes to be pulled, more than likely a 23 62 65 49 in the EEC IV module.
The shift lever has three wires, Red - Green and Yellow Make sure they are connected in the steering column. Check the connector on the Pass side of trans, could be corroded or loose. Does the Tach work?

When the trans is in limp mode, which it is, when your in D, it only has 2nd and reverse. You can force shift by shifting 1- 2 -3, but eventually ruin the trans. pretty quick.

Booneville IN is close to Evansville IN must be buddies.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Ok...

The only code that was shown when we pulled them was for TPS voltage (which had been replaced and was set too high). No other codes.

As far as limp mode... that's a negative. The truck starts in 2nd (when in drive) but shifts to 3rd and 4th and converter lock-up functions normally. When shifted manually, it will shift through all gears just fine including 1st. When in drive, it starts in 2nd. The only issue it really has now is the 2nd gear start which FORDF250HDXLT might be onto something with the mlps acting up.

 

[A48WillyzGuy]

Haha yeah. Sorry for the confusion. Acid beat me to starting the thread originally.

When I pulled the codes, there was actually two that came up: the TPS voltage set too high [I set it while the engine was cold, apparently it matters? Lol] and another that said System Ok (codes 63 and 11, I think?)

Edit::
FWIW, it flashed both codes twice and then it was followed by an additional code #1, for which I couldn't find any info on. I assume it was an error on the scanner's part... or I'm seeing things/going insane. Haha

Edit #2::

The tach works perfectly. I cleaned the plug on the passenger and drivers side, both. It was pretty difficult to get into the passenger side one because my exhaust was kinda in the way. Maybe I should try it again.

 

[trackspeeder]

Ok...

The only code that was shown when we pulled them was for TPS voltage (which had been replaced and was set too high). No other codes.

As far as limp mode... that's a negative. The truck starts in 2nd (when in drive) but shifts to 3rd and 4th and converter lock-up functions normally. When shifted manually, it will shift through all gears just fine including 1st. When in drive, it starts in 2nd. The only issue it really has now is the 2nd gear start which FORDF250HDXLT might be onto something with the mlps acting up.

Linkage, TRS, or internal issues will cause no (D) in drive. (Starts in a higher gear.)

Get the TPS issues fixed first. If this continues, you have other issues.

 

[AcIdBuRn02ZTS]

Linkage, TRS, or internal issues will cause no (D) in drive. (Starts in a higher gear.)

Get the TPS issues fixed first. If this continues, you have other issues.

TPS is fixed but no change as far as the wrong gear starts. Thinking about replacing the "neutral safety switch" next as its all that's left besides shift solenoids or internal problems.