E4OD question...yup another one

The FNG

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Maybe I'll be able to get an answer here, or maybe some guidance. I'm having some symptoms in my transmission. I noticed that it has been running a little warmer than usual and at times gets to be hot (205 ish) and it has been making me feel uncomfortable, especially since this is all unloaded (mostly going uphill).

I have also noticed that the shift points have changed as of recent. It likes to shift up too early and then requires me to mash on it to shift down to have any sort of power. If I don't mash on it then EGT's go up and it looks like I'm dragging a forest fire behind me. It seems that over time, things have generally gotten worse.

So here's what I did: I jumped on TDS forum and asked away. I changed my transmission fluid per instructions found here, there, and elsewhere. I also cleaned all the connections near the transmission and dabbed a bit of dielectric grease on them. I also checked my FIPL voltage.

Ground: 0.019v
Reference: 5.04v
Center wire:
Idle:1.19v
WOT: 3.85v

Seemed to be ok and voltage seemed to change smoothly with gradual throttle movement.

Well, after all of this, I went for a test drive. What a difference the new fluid made...or so I thought. The next day, I drove into work and by the time I got to the top of the hill, my trans temps were back to 200ish and I was having just as bad shift problems as before.

Something else I want to add is that my OD light is not blinking, so I shouldn't have any codes, right? Also, it shifts into 3rd from 2nd too early at times if the I use the OD button. It seems weird that if I slow down to 40-45ish on the highway that it wouldn't shift into 3rd to help me get back up to speed, it just chokes along and shortens the lifespan of people behind me with massive mounts of black smoke.

Anyway, please help me...
 

trackspeeder

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The TCM isn't very good at storing codes. Good chance there are none.

I would play with the TPS a little more. You can adjust the shift points by moving it a little. Just don't go out of range. Otherwise the tranny will go into limp mode.
 

The FNG

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What would a better adjustment be? I'll have to look up what the acceptable ranges are...

The other thing is how could it be all of a sudden out of adjustment?
 

icanfixall

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You can increase the idle warmed up engine voltage to 1.2 or 1.3 but no higher than 1.3 volts. factory setting is .96 to 1.2. When you get out of range and the wide open throttle is 5.0 or higher the trans goes into limp home mode because the 5.0 volts locks out the computer by too much voltage. Its a safety item for the trans I believe. Also the tps is not an install once and forget it. The recommendations are to replace them around 50 to 75 thousand miles. All they really are is a rheostat switch that rubs a hard steel contact on the wire base. Just think how much movement that tiny switch sees driving the truck.
 

The FNG

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Thanks. I agree that it would be considered somewhat of a wear item, I just wanted to be sure before throwing parts at it. I bought the truck 50k ago so it's been at least that long...

Before I buy it, are there any brands to stay away from, or are all created equal?
 

OLDBULL8

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The Link for code checking that Mark K gave you on the TDS, it's not for a diesel, on a diesel you have to hold the throttle at WOT while the KOEO check is being made. You only get a two digit code output if there is any. Never messed with a 94, so I might be wrong. But basically you do the same procedure.
Depending on how steep and distance the hill is you go up, 205* don't seem to be too high, ambient temp, the size of the Aux cooler will also effect the temp. I've always found you have to tromp the go peddle to make it downshift. The engine fan won't kick into high until the engine temp reaches about 240*. Trans. temp is usually close to or at engine temp. without an Aux trans. cooler, even with a cooler, it would only be maybe 20* - 30* lower.

That black smoke is an indication the engine is lugging. Do you know what the timing is set at?

Trans, lockup won't unlock until your down to about 25 MPH if your just coasting speed down, pretty sure that's the way it is on a 94.

I'm Bill1013 on the TDS. Ever get your O/U working?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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if you had a sensor tester it would probably show you the FIPL/TPS is worn.your symptoms scream worn/maladjusted tps.plus it's time to replace anyway.so even if it doesn't fix the issue right now,it's needed.
every 50k miles it should be changed and it might have been let go for too long before you got the truck too.
this is why it's a good idea to just replace these when buying a used truck with the E40D.
 

The FNG

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The Link for code checking that Mark K gave you on the TDS, it's not for a diesel, on a diesel you have to hold the throttle at WOT while the KOEO check is being made. You only get a two digit code output if there is any. Never messed with a 94, so I might be wrong. But basically you do the same procedure.
Depending on how steep and distance the hill is you go up, 205* don't seem to be too high, ambient temp, the size of the Aux cooler will also effect the temp. I've always found you have to tromp the go peddle to make it downshift. The engine fan won't kick into high until the engine temp reaches about 240*. Trans. temp is usually close to or at engine temp. without an Aux trans. cooler, even with a cooler, it would only be maybe 20* - 30* lower.

That black smoke is an indication the engine is lugging. Do you know what the timing is set at?

Trans, lockup won't unlock until your down to about 25 MPH if your just coasting speed down, pretty sure that's the way it is on a 94.

I'm Bill1013 on the TDS. Ever get your O/U working?

I have been reading that 210* was the max temp the trans could take for a short length of time. If I'm wrong, I'll stop worrying too much until it gets higher. Last year I rented Gary's tool and set my timing at 9.7*. I'll have to see if something has moved, but as far as I know, that's where it's at. And at this hour of the morning, I'm not sure what my o/u is...I did get my third tank plumbed in with your help ;Sweet

if you had a sensor tester it would probably show you the FIPL/TPS is worn.your symptoms scream worn/maladjusted tps.plus it's time to replace anyway.so even if it doesn't fix the issue right now,it's needed.
every 50k miles it should be changed and it might have been let go for too long before you got the truck too.
this is why it's a good idea to just replace these when buying a used truck with the E40D.

Ok, well, I guess I will do this. Is there a "sweet spot" on these things as as far as voltage settings go?
 

nj_m715

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After reading a few e4od threads I am ordering a new tps, but I don't think it will fix my problem. I have an intermittent dead tach. I haven't been able to get a meter on it and start chasing down the fault b/c everytime I get it home it's back to working. It happened 2 or 3 times in the last few weeks. I didn't realize it was the tach at first. It felt like it needed fluid, I checked and it was good. I got back in and started started scratching my head until I saw the dead tach. I shifted down to 2nd from drive and started moving. I shifted back to drive when I picked up some speed. It seemed to shift and run fine. Even OD seemed to work. half way home the tach began working again and ofcourse it shifted as it should.
So am I hurting anything by driving w/o a tach and manually shifting at stops? It'll be hard for me to solve my riddle until I can get it to act up in my driveway and allow me to follow the trouble shooting guide.
 

laserjock

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Tach sensors seem to be a common failure point and I am pretty sure they E4 needs the tach input. Search Tach sensor. Sometimes they can be cleaned, sometimes they need replaced.
 

trackspeeder

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I have been reading that 210* was the max temp the trans could take for a short length of time. If I'm wrong, I'll stop worrying too much until it gets higher. Last year I rented Gary's tool and set my timing at 9.7*. I'll have to see if something has moved, but as far as I know, that's where it's at. And at this hour of the morning, I'm not sure what my o/u is...I did get my third tank plumbed in with your help ;Sweet



Ok, well, I guess I will do this. Is there a "sweet spot" on these things as as far as voltage settings go?


Mercon and MerconV will handle 210 degrees without a problem providing its a short time period.


Sweet spot. Not really. This is the way I set them. Use the factory spec as a baseline. Take the truck for a good test ride. Then tweak the TPS to speed up or slow down the shift schedule.
 

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