Door latches? Have to really slam the doors to close them.

[noddaz]

Tried oiling the latches while the latch is on the door. Tried spray lithium grease into the latch while it is on the door. No change. Do I need to pull the latches out of the door shell to clean them and oil them or is there something else that I can do?

Thanks,

Scott

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

you need to adjust your strikers.once you get them right,she'll close with your pinky.

 

[TronDD]

The hinge bushings wear out, too, messing up the door alignment. My door closes easier if I lift it up a little bit.

Tim.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

I have the same issue, I did the door pins but when I shut the door you could see it still picks up the door a hair before it latches. When I open it and try to see if there's play it's tight as could be. Any ideas

 

[cpdenton]

Sometimes the metal frame of the door itself starts to fatigue a little with 20+ years of use. They can actually bend some and that bend needs to be reversed. A 4x4 and a floor jack can be a useful way to lift that end of the door. Lift it up a little farther than you need to, because it will settle back down some. I have a sweet little bar that closes in the latch and uses the striker as a pivot point to lift these. It's one of my body shop days tools.

Also, check the body line alignment. If the door is too high closed, it may just need the striker lowered.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

When the door shuts the body line is dead on. When it's latching its low and raises...

 

[cpdenton]

There may also be some adjustment on the bolts that hold the hinges to the firewall area. Remember to look at the body lines and work from the cab corner to doors to fenders. That is the proper way to adjust panel gaps. Sounds like your striker is right where it should be. Now, you just need to get the door hanging in space properly. I would do the 4x4 trick, should be a little easier than reaching all the hinge bolts with the fender still on.

Open the door about 6 inches or so and place the wood block between a jack and the door. Put some pressure to lift and bend the door up some.....don't go too far! You will have to go past where you want it to end up. A couple of times doing this and you should be good to go.

 

[franklin2]

Instead of replacing the hinge pins, I usually cheat and do it the easy way. I take the bolts loose on the bottom part of the door where the hinge bolts up, and put washers in there to shim it up. I have tried to loosen the bolts on the cab, that would let you raise the door the proper way, but they are terrible to get to, and after I broke a ratchet trying to get them loose, I just used the washer method.

After you get the door lined up, if you still have to slam it, and sometimes it bounces back and doesn't close all the way, check the striker pin on the cab. It should have a plastic bushing around it. If it's just bare metal, get some of that PEX plastic plumbing line, cut a short piece to fit, and the slit it lengthwise and snap it onto the pin. This really makes the door shut nice if this bushing is missing.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

I would do the 4x4 trick, should be a little easier than reaching all the hinge bolts with the fender still on.

Open the door about 6 inches or so and place the wood block between a jack and the door. Put some pressure to lift and bend the door up some.....don't go too far! You will have to go past where you want it to end up. A couple of times doing this and you should be good to go.

sounds good! thanks!

my pins are new they're easy to replace takes under an hour to do both front doors. .....I say front because its a crew cab....

 

[Kevin 007]

Instead of replacing the hinge pins, I usually cheat and do it the easy way. I take the bolts loose on the bottom part of the door where the hinge bolts up, and put washers in there to shim it up. I have tried to loosen the bolts on the cab, that would let you raise the door the proper way, but they are terrible to get to, and after I broke a ratchet trying to get them loose, I just used the washer method.

After you get the door lined up, if you still have to slam it, and sometimes it bounces back and doesn't close all the way, check the striker pin on the cab. It should have a plastic bushing around it. If it's just bare metal, get some of that PEX plastic plumbing line, cut a short piece to fit, and the slit it lengthwise and snap it onto the pin. This really makes the door shut nice if this bushing is missing.

The bolts that hold the door to the hinge or the bolts that hold the hinge to the door???