dismal fuel milage even cruising on highway

Double-S-Diesel

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SD's dont have the fpr screen.
thye plug for the ebv is under the turbo on the SD, different place than the OBS.
no need to disconnect linkage just unplug it.
 

69oiler

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Gutting the EBPV is a fine idea, but it is not related to your mileage problem. If your EBPV goes closed while underway, you'll know it. If you are not having any other performance problems other than mileage I would look to an injector problem or EOT sensor, possibly a plugged return screen on the FPR (I think the SD's have a similar setup as the OBS?).

When was the last time a full oil/fuel/air filter change was done?

it definitly is closing at least partially/not fully opening. you are right i do know it is happening. my temp needle can be up to normal and still i can feel the valve is closed. if i shut down for 1/2 hour and restart it is really bad. takes a long time for it to feel like its not closed, and for all i know it still may not be fully open.

fuel filter was done 10k miles ago.
oil change last week/ 1300 miles ago. problem not effected by new oil. oil changes ever 5000 miles since i've had the truck with Rotella 15w 40
DIY intake done last fall but big NAPA filter still looks fine.
 

Dzlman95

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Winter Mileage

My mileage has dropped from 18 to 14 on the winter fuel... That's combined without pulling anything. Trying a fuel additive now, we'll see what happens.
 

69oiler

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got under the hood and defeated that EBPV last night.

first i checked for range of motion. the travel was very sticky and jammed midway between open and closed. in the process of excercising it, fumbling blind, i popped the clip that holds the actuator rod onto the linkage, off. no luck getting that back together. i have long skinny arms but big hands and both just dont fit at the same time under the turbo.

i ended up unplugging the wiring harness from the actuator and using tie wire to hold the flap open. the actuator rod is disconnected from the pivot shaft. Nick told me to unplug the wire to prevent an oil leak. i hope i did this right, and that the linkage being disconnected doesn't cause potential problems.

when i save up for my 4" exhaust i will get in there and gut the ebpv the right way.

on the test drive the sound of the turbo was different. before, it had a wheezy sound to it like an asthma victim and it spooled slow and reluctant like. now it sounds smoother and quieter with a high pitch whine, more like i think it's supposed to.

i wonder if i get any better milage now. butt-o-meter indicates performance seems to have improved.;Sweet
 

Russ

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butt-o-meter indicates performance seems to have improved.


Uh oh, I guess I'd better get that phone call placed to Tony...

Sounds like it was closing a bit Rob. I should be better mpg and performance
 

tonkadoctor

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My mileage has dropped from 18 to 14 on the winter fuel... That's combined without pulling anything. Trying a fuel additive now, we'll see what happens.

Just started doing the same with Power Service to see what happens with fuel milage and lube the new injector$$$$$. I've never been a fan of additives and now have a baseline of 17 MPG Hwy with the new injectors so let's see what happens.
 

Mike

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got under the hood and defeated that EBPV last night.

first i checked for range of motion. the travel was very sticky and jammed midway between open and closed. in the process of excercising it, fumbling blind, i popped the clip that holds the actuator rod onto the linkage, off. no luck getting that back together. i have long skinny arms but big hands and both just dont fit at the same time under the turbo.

That thing is a huge PITA to hook back up. The only problem you might encounter with the rod just hanging there is an oil leak around the actuator. Mine was good for awhile but then developed a leak. I gutted the butterfly out of the throat and pulled the actuator out and tapped the hole and threaded in a pipe plug.
 

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94f450sd

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I gutted the butterfly out of the throat and pulled the actuator out and tapped the hole and threaded in a pipe plug.

i cut the actuater housing off my pedistal and removed the electric solenoid for it as well.i had all the holes welded up so no more leaks in that area for me :D
 

69oiler

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That thing is a huge PITA to hook back up. The only problem you might encounter with the rod just hanging there is an oil leak around the actuator. Mine was good for awhile but then developed a leak. I gutted the butterfly out of the throat and pulled the actuator out and tapped the hole and threaded in a pipe plug.

you aint kiddin. one thing i learned is the turbo has to come off for me to properly complete this project. i'll be threading and plugging the hole as well. i hope it holds out for a while like yours did before it leaks. how bad of a leak can i expect when it does leak. it's not going to puke all of a sudden is it, i'm envisioning seepage of a few drips.

driving more today i noticed much better light throttle response. wide open it's marginally better but light right foot performance is quite noticable.
 

Mike

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Mine lasted a few months before it bagan leaking Rob, then what I would notice is a pie tin size puddle when I would park it. I assume it was filling the valley and then would run out the back hole when I shut her down. It was a good enough leak that I hooked the rod back up until I could do the gut job.
 

tbirdfiend281

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i can usually pop the pin on with one hand, on a good day of coarse, never all the time.

so taking it off and guting that piece, gain any power or loss of EGT's?

i saw the BD piece for the 00-03 turbos, does anyone make a piece for the 94-97 turbos?
 

69oiler

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throttle response is better but my first fill since wiring open the ebpv still returned 12 mpg. hopefully summer fuel brings milage back up to mid teens.:rolleyes:
 
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