Diesel n00b! 89 f250 7.3L idi - A couple Q's

[jam sandwich]

Hey everyone, I didn't see an introduction section so I'm posting it here (Please move to appropriate section if necessary)

Anyhow, I'm very excited to have just purchased an 89 f250 5spd w/186k recently.
I've always wanted a diesel truck and I found this truck for a decent deal.
Its going to be my daily driver since I have another project car (which is a honda, ) So once that car is all apart I'll be rocking my f250

I've been searching all over this forum the past week to get up to speed on the common issues and fixes for these trucks. I've already ordered new belts, SCA additive, fuel additive, new filters, and an injector return line kit w/ viton o-rings (Im planning to run biodiesel)

However there was one problem which I didnt see any threads on...

The shifter for the truck hits the dash when you shift it in either 1st or 3rd.. I haven't come across any other threads with this issue.. Is the trucks shifter installed backwards or something?
I understand there are some bushings in the shifter assembly which can be replaced, and I have ordered them already. What else could this issue be?

The clutch also engages at the floor. I've gathered alot of information on this topic, and have a couple fixes I plan to look into once I get the truck from the dealer. The pedal is tough to depress, which could be a bad clutch.. but I want to tighten up the linkage so it engages properly before I drop 600-1000 on another clutch

When I checked out the truck, something drained both batteries completely, but even once a charger was hooked up, the truck turned over slowly, and needed some coaxing ( fuel poured into the intake ) to start it.
They have agreed to fix the electrical draining issue before I am given the keys to the truck, so I'm hoping they fix it.
But would that likely be the starter that isnt turning the motor fast enough? I am unsure of the condition of the batteries in the truck..


Sorry for the long introduction, I'm excited to dive into the world of diesels after being a honda head for so long.
Thanks guys!

 

[papastruck]

Welcome to the forum. When you get it home, and before you tear the car apart, it's a worthwhile exercise to just go through the electrical basics on the truck. Your biggest enemy here will be the PO. Not the Post Office, the Previous Owner. Unless you take a little time to undo hacked up stereos, trailer harnesses, unswitched power leads, etc., the PO will be sticking it to you in the Spring of 2013. Yes, the PO is a real sonofabitch.

On my '86, there was no one issue that caused the problems. The cable was fried and spliced together with a U bolt (see above), the batteries were the wrong size and rating (see above), solenoid wires were loose (see above), and the the ignition lock isn't working properly. Haven't fixed that one yet, but I see the rod going down to the ignition switch is all bent up, so, see above on that one too! On my '73, there was a bad connection that would really heat up - cleaning all the connections in the circuit worked wonders.

Batteries on these need a ton of power. I now have 710 CCA in mine, iirc. Then drive it for a while and get an idea of starting habits, smoke, noises. Just get to know it before taking the other one down. Between the PO and it sounding like it hasn't been daily driven for a while, things are a lot less stressful if you have something you can count on. Anyway, once you work the bugs out, you'll have a good reliable truck. In the mean time, you can put in a battery disconnect for when you have to leave it.

For the shifter I'd just dive into the trans tunnel and look. If the actioin is really loose, then I'd go with bushings; if it's tight and just in the wrong location, then you've just been bitten by the PO! Clutches on that are hydraulic, no? Got fluid? Anyway, good luck with it, and I'm sure you'll get plenty of info on the last 2 items.

 

[Goofyexponent]

Hey everyone, I didn't see an introduction section so I'm posting it here (Please move to appropriate section if necessary)

Anyhow, I'm very excited to have just purchased an 89 f250 5spd w/186k recently.
I've always wanted a diesel truck and I found this truck for a decent deal.
Its going to be my daily driver since I have another project car (which is a honda, ) So once that car is all apart I'll be rocking my f250

I've been searching all over this forum the past week to get up to speed on the common issues and fixes for these trucks. I've already ordered new belts, SCA additive, fuel additive, new filters, and an injector return line kit w/ viton o-rings (Im planning to run biodiesel)

However there was one problem which I didnt see any threads on...

The shifter for the truck hits the dash when you shift it in either 1st or 3rd.. I haven't come across any other threads with this issue.. Is the trucks shifter installed backwards or something?
I understand there are some bushings in the shifter assembly which can be replaced, and I have ordered them already. What else could this issue be?

The clutch also engages at the floor. I've gathered alot of information on this topic, and have a couple fixes I plan to look into once I get the truck from the dealer. The pedal is tough to depress, which could be a bad clutch.. but I want to tighten up the linkage so it engages properly before I drop 600-1000 on another clutch

When I checked out the truck, something drained both batteries completely, but even once a charger was hooked up, the truck turned over slowly, and needed some coaxing ( fuel poured into the intake ) to start it.
They have agreed to fix the electrical draining issue before I am given the keys to the truck, so I'm hoping they fix it.
But would that likely be the starter that isnt turning the motor fast enough? I am unsure of the condition of the batteries in the truck..


Sorry for the long introduction, I'm excited to dive into the world of diesels after being a honda head for so long.
Thanks guys!

Nice to have another member!

These trucks, as mentioned before, need some serious battery power to get going. I have two 1100 CA batteries in my rig, and they do JUST fine. A gear reduction starter is a plus as well, cranks a lot better with one installed.

The glow plugs, only replace with Motorcraft/Beru plugs....I learned this from expirence....

Pouring ANY liquid down the intake of these engines, even fuel, is a BAD thing to do. There is MINIMUM TDC piston clearance, and a bit of liquid in there can bend rods, and do ALL kinds of damage!!

I know I'll take heat for this, but a 1/2 second shot of ether can work wonders in an EMERGENCY situation ONLY!!

MAKE SURE THE GLOW PLUG STSTEM IS NOT ACTIVE IF YOU DO THIS! I don't want to be held responsible for someone losing eyebrows, or a whole face, due to an ether backfire!! If the truck will not start on one shot, roll it over for 5 to 10 seconds and repeat. This will flush out any ether in the motor, and it will be like starting fresh again. Using a whole can on one attempt won't do you any good lol.

Anymore than a 1/2 second burst while cranking will ether lock the motor, again, hurting rods, bearings and pre-cups.

These trucks are tough as nails, cheap to fix and will out last anything on the road....save for the Ford's rusting so fast lol.

Don't be scared to ask questions, no one will make fun of you....until you do something dumb, but we ALL do that! Don't take anything we say to heart, unless it's about the truck.

Good luck, and post some pics of the old girl!

 

[gatorman21218]

Sounds like your on the right track. Lord knows I was clueless as could be when I bought my truck. I seached "Ford Diesel" on Craigslist and went to talk to the guy. Him: So theres no turbo on it. Me: Huh I though 7.3s were all Turbos. Anyway one thing thing to look for in the clutch is the firewall flexing/cracked when you depress it. A member on here has a CNC machine and custom made the repair plate fix it. His handle is freebird01. http://www.terrapinmfg.com/product.php?cat=Ford Also take some time to really look over it and fix any african engineering that was done.

 

[jam sandwich]

Thanks for the tips guys
I've read all about the motorcraft beru plugs, I'll know more once i check them out on the truck.
I also happened upon a thread/issue with the CDR valve so i ordered one.. I'm not even sure if i'll need it..

As for the liquid into engine. I've read about this and was concerned when the mechanic pour a bit thru the bolt hole on top of the filter housing.. but it literally fired right up with a puff of white smoke.
I think it was sitting about 2 weeks before hand.

The batteries that were in the truck at the time were 650cca if i remember correctly..

I'm eager for the dealer to complete all the repair work needed. The truck also had no brakes (lots of air/no pressure) and didnt have the front tank installed
They promised me these items would be fixed, I just hope its done correctly... I'm crossing my fingers.

Heres a pic of the old gem when I bought it. She needs alot of TLC, but I'm confident I can get most of it done for cheap.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[1994IDI]

Sounds like you've got some fun ahead of you. All of the above is very sound advice. Especially working out your little issues before tearing your other car apart, so you don't end up stranded because you weren't familiar with your trucks problems yet. I hope they get it all together for you so you can jump in and have some fun with it. We're big fans of pictures here so feel free to keep them coming once you take possession of the pickup. Good luck and welcome.

 

[jam sandwich]

Another item which I want to work on is the AC.
I was told by the dealer the AC works, but the freon leaks out in about 2 days.
I found an r134 conversion kit that comes with stop leak for 45$..
Would it be worth it for me to get new orings or would the stop leak work? I've never used stop leak for AC systems before, I'm not sure how effective it works.

 

[Agnem]

Just so we are clear on this... fuel poured through the intake will most likely run to the back two cylinders. Depending on how much, what kind of "fuel", cylinder temperature, yada yada... If there was sufficient liquid to take up all the available space in the combustion chamber, then there is the potential that you have a bent rod. Sure it might start it in the process. If I were you, I'd be doing a compression test on this motor, replacing all the glow plugs, return lines, maybe a new starter, batteries, and converting to an electric fuel pump. Welcome to the site, and thanks for reading up first!

 

[jam sandwich]

I understand the concept of liquid into an engine, especially a high compression engine.
I'll be looking into testing all these items once I receive the truck. Thanks for the advice.

 

[idi traveler]

Hey everyone, I didn't see an introduction section so I'm posting it here (Please move to appropriate section if necessary)

Anyhow, I'm very excited to have just purchased an 89 f250 5spd w/186k recently.
I've always wanted a diesel truck and I found this truck for a decent deal.
Its going to be my daily driver since I have another project car (which is a honda, ) So once that car is all apart I'll be rocking my f250

I've been searching all over this forum the past week to get up to speed on the common issues and fixes for these trucks. I've already ordered new belts, SCA additive, fuel additive, new filters, and an injector return line kit w/ viton o-rings (Im planning to run biodiesel)

However there was one problem which I didnt see any threads on...

The shifter for the truck hits the dash when you shift it in either 1st or 3rd.. I haven't come across any other threads with this issue.. Is the trucks shifter installed backwards or something?
I understand there are some bushings in the shifter assembly which can be replaced, and I have ordered them already. What else could this issue be?

The clutch also engages at the floor. I've gathered alot of information on this topic, and have a couple fixes I plan to look into once I get the truck from the dealer. The pedal is tough to depress, which could be a bad clutch.. but I want to tighten up the linkage so it engages properly before I drop 600-1000 on another clutch

When I checked out the truck, something drained both batteries completely, but even once a charger was hooked up, the truck turned over slowly, and needed some coaxing ( fuel poured into the intake ) to start it.
They have agreed to fix the electrical draining issue before I am given the keys to the truck, so I'm hoping they fix it.
But would that likely be the starter that isnt turning the motor fast enough? I am unsure of the condition of the batteries in the truck..


Sorry for the long introduction, I'm excited to dive into the world of diesels after being a honda head for so long.
Thanks guys!

When I got my truck, see sig., It was fall and it would be a while before I could expect the title. The truck had sat for 5 yrs. so there was lots of maintenance to do, but I didn't want to buy batts till I had the title in hand. I charged the batts and would drive the truck around the farm and back roads. Soon cooler weather got here and I had to put a little batt maintainer on the truck. As the weather got below freezing that wasn't enough, While I had the cables all off and cleaning everything between the batts and starter to bright work I remembered some conductive grease that I had bought 12 yrs earlier and put it on everything. As a friend told me on a 20 degree morning with no heater on it, "Dude that turns like a gasser!" Do everything right before spending money needlessly. In time there is lots of other things you will need to spend your money on. Welcome and enjoy! I'm still using those batts and no maintainer!

 

[jam sandwich]

UPDATE:
So the dealer called me today and told me they have the tank and the straps, but they arent able to find a 'special part' that goes inside the tank.
This would be the fuel pickup I assume right?
He claims to have called all over (ford napa, etc) and nobody has this part...
Does anyone have any idea what he could be talking about?

In exchange, He's going to fix up my a/c for me instead and still give me the tank/straps to install.
He told me the rear tank was 25 gallons and the front is 19, are these the correct size tanks for this truck?
At least I can return all the a/c parts I bought..

 

[Papabear]

Welcome to the site first things first on here you have access to a wealth of knowledge and most of us if we where close enough would invite ourselves over with a case of beer in hand and a toolbox in the truck. Remember the only dumb question is the one you didn't ask. Happy oilburning!

 

[nyteshades]

The rear tank is 19 gallons and the front is 18 gallons, stock anyway. If the sending unit is there, you can always add a hose for a pick up. Notch the end of the hose in a v so it doesn't suck to the bottom of the tank.

If it was me, I'd roll with letting them fixing the a/c, and handle putting the tank in myself.

 

[SparkandFire]

Welcome to the site!

I think what you are looking for is the entire pickup/fuel sender assembly. Those are hard to come by unless you hit the junkyards (someone else may come by here with one to offer you, though...) i've been looking for a couple new ones myself.

Do a search here on "fuel senders" and you will see what I mean. The factory sending unit was never good to begin with, so even if you get a hold of one, be prepared for the fuel gauge to not work correctly.

Good thing the dealer is helping you get things straight on that, getting a new tank and straps is a good thing, plus getting a working AC outta the deal is nice too!

 

[jam sandwich]

Well I just got off the phone with them again.
Looks like they have a chance to find the tank sending unit, and the truck will be done Monday. Not only that, but they are still fixing the A/C for me too!

All I need now are some sunvisors, rear tailgate, and a new headlight switch