Dianosis Please? Trucks horrible

[Brutis]

After putting my turbo on a few weeks back the performance of the truck didn't change at all, but it smells terrible and hot all the time now. I've been driving real easy on it and haven't adjusted the fuel at all. I just got my boost and Pyro gauges installed yesterday and I can't get more than 4psi, and my egts can hit 1200 easy going up hill. The truck is almost always hard to start and blows white smoke really bad when cold. I never, ever see any black smoke whatsoever.

Is this strictly a timing issue, or should I look into pump and injectors. Unfortunately there is literally no one in this area that can dynamically time. Why can I only get 4psi from the (factory off a '94) turbo?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just a little (discouraged?) and need some help figuring it out. Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[david85]

Did you install the pyro at the same time as the turbocharger? or did you have it on before? Is it new or used? I'm a little suspicious about readings that high with so little boost pressure.

Power will only increase if you increase the fuel settings but don't do that until you figure this out.

 

[Brutis]

I put the turbo on about a month and a half before I installed the pyro. I had to wait about 4 weeks for my pyro to ship and just installed it yesterday. I put the probe in the manifold right where it connects to the #8 port. I tapped from under the truck b/c it was easy to access. I've suspected problems obviously for some time, but didn't have any empirical evidence prior to the gauge install. Now I can at least ask educated questions.

 

[david85]

So the pyro is brand new, hmm.

I would go over the instructions and parts list to make sure there isn't a setting on the gauge for different lengths of lead wires and/or verify that the thermocouple is correctly matched to the gauge.

Mine has a switch on the back so it can be used with 2 different versions of thermocouple. Basically the lead wires are different lengths depending on the application and thats what throws the readings off if not correctly matched.

Ideally you would use an infra red thermometer to take a reading at the manifold to verify the reading even roughly.

Are you getting any smoke at all?

 

[Jake S.]

1. Timing Sounds retarded. I guess that because white smoke, high egts(heat going out exhaust before its converted to mech. Energy) and low boost.
2. Could also have an air leak letting the boost escape. Also check for exhaust leaks. If you were closer, and I had some vacation time I would come out there.

 

[plywood]

White smoke at cold start up could indicate retarded timing which would go along with high EGTs.

I'm no boost expert but the factory turbo is pretty detuned to my knowledge. Dosen't it also have an adjustable wastegate also?

I remember on another thread a while back a guy was asking about how to get more power and I think you said something about it's as easy as picking up a used turbo for $400.00. I assume this is the same one, does it sound like it's spooling up good and not sounding funny?

 

[Brutis]

O.k. I'll try advancing timing some - I thought that the white smoke was a symptom of retarded timing but wasn't sure about the egts - thanks for clearing that question up.

As far as the turbo goes, I had a mechanic at my local diesel performance shop (the one that can't time a mechanically injected motor- great guys though) check over the turbo and he said it seemed good. When I first installed it I really liked the sound, I could really hear it whistle - with no intake or exhaust. Of course at that point I had no boost gauge. It seems I've read of other hitting 10-12psi with theirs? I could "feel" a little more power - probably just from not having an exhaust on it. Once I put the intake and exhaust (custom 2.5" DP to 3" with Thrush Welded) I can't hear the turbo at all. I didn't worry to much at first thinking maybe I was under fueled. Should I be able to spin the compressor wheel freely by hand?

 

[Brutis]

Also the 1200 + egts are foot on the floor up a hill, I cruise around 650-750 on flat ground, it seems to vary quite a bit and that's just one days observation.

What's the best stuff to spray to check for exhaust leaks?

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

O.k. I'll try advancing timing some - I thought that the white smoke was a symptom of retarded timing but wasn't sure about the egts - thanks for clearing that question up.

As far as the turbo goes, I had a mechanic at my local diesel performance shop (the one that can't time a mechanically injected motor- great guys though) check over the turbo and he said it seemed good. When I first installed it I really liked the sound, I could really hear it whistle - with no intake or exhaust. Of course at that point I had no boost gauge. It seems I've read of other hitting 10-12psi with theirs? I could "feel" a little more power - probably just from not having an exhaust on it. Once I put the intake and exhaust (custom 2.5" DP to 3" with Thrush Welded) I can't hear the turbo at all. I didn't worry to much at first thinking maybe I was under fueled. Should I be able to spin the compressor wheel freely by hand?

You should be able to give the compressor-wheel a flip and it spin effortlessly for about a week.

 

[Brutis]

That's what I was afraid of. I can move it, but not effortlessly and it will not free spin at all. Is there a way to free it up or is it turbo rebuild time? About how much am I looking at for a rebuild?

 

[GOOSE]

Typ4 rebuilds them, extremely reasonable from what I have seen. Also does BB injectors.

 

[Brutis]

I will adjust the timing soon. Will it hurt anything to let the turbo alone for a while? I really don't have the time to take it off right now.

 

[Brutis]

If you were closer, and I had some vacation time I would come out there.

I appreciate the offer

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

In order to operate, the impellor must be as free as a breeze, as it is the breeze coming through the exhaust that spins it.

If that wheel is "sticky" to spin, the exhaust must "back up" and develop more pressure to make it spin, thus your low boost, white smoke and heating issues.

I would not mess with timing or anything else, until I had someone who knew turbos to check it out.

 

[f-two-fiddy]

These turbo shafts rides on a film of oil. If the engine is NOT running (no oil pressure) You will not be able to get a real picture of the condition of the 'bearings'.

If you spin the shaft by hand, there should be a very slight resistance. (remember, there's no oil on the bearing) There should be a little end play. But the rotors should not hit either shroud.

I wouldn't condemn the turbo yet. Go back and re-check Your work. I'd almost bet that You have a boost, and/or exhaust leak.

Did You take the IP off, to tweak the fuel? Did You even adjust the fuel screw?