coolant leak

[remington88]

i have a 92 f250 with a 7.3. i am noticing a drop of coolant underneith after i shut here down. it looks like the heads are leaking but i am not positive. is there a freeze plug or hose on the back of these engines above the tranny? or is it most likly head gasket time?

 

[gatorman21218]

ive just redid my entire cooling system because of leaks. A coolant leak is hard to diagnose because it has a bed tendency to travel a long way before dripping down. It could be a freeze plug back there I think there is one by the oil filter but it could be your water pump is leaking and running down the engine. Is there coolant in your oil or vise versa? does your exhaust smell sweet? if yes then its mostlikly a head gasket. I would spend 20 minutes with a flashlight really crawling around looking for a possible leak then take it to a mechanic and have them pressure test it.

 

[remington88]

i did pressure test it it wont hold pressure but the only wet spot on the entire engine is in the back dripping down on top of the tranny and front drive shaft. its not sprayin out anywhere. just seeping out.

 

[gatorman21218]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22387

You might have a freeze plug problem then. the cost of one of these tools is not cheap but i personally would get it cuz you can bet that the local mom and pop auto place dont got it

 

[remington88]

thanks. i will tear into it once it gets warmer out its to damn cold in the shop to work. hands aint moving right.

 

[gatorman21218]

i heard that its been pretty cold here in va but not too bad i couldnt install one of typ4's return line kits

 

[87crewdually]

i did pressure test it it wont hold pressure but the only wet spot on the entire engine is in the back dripping down on top of the tranny and front drive shaft. its not sprayin out anywhere. just seeping out.

Use a mirror and flashlight to probe around a bit and find it. There is a casting plug on the end of the cylinder head to. Try to pressurize the system to aid in finding the source.

 

[RLDSL]

To properly identify the leak source, you can get a UV dye that goes into the coolant from Napa or Snap on ( you need 2 small bottles for an engine this size ) you run the thing for a bit with the dye in , then check it with the same type of UV light and amber glasses that are used to detect AC leaks , most parts stores sell a cheap set for about $15. After running, shut it off and get under there with the light and glasses, the leak will leave a bright glowing yellow trail that leads you directly to the source , eliminating the guesswork. This is the most effective way to isolate the leak. Other methods like using powder etc won't tell you what fluid is involved and can easily lead to misdiagnosis.

 

[SparkandFire]

To properly identify the leak source, you can get a UV dye that goes into the coolant from Napa or Snap on ( you need 2 small bottles for an engine this size ) you run the thing for a bit with the dye in , then check it with the same type of UV light and amber glasses that are used to detect AC leaks , most parts stores sell a cheap set for about $15. After running, shut it off and get under there with the light and glasses, the leak will leave a bright glowing yellow trail that leads you directly to the source , eliminating the guesswork. This is the most effective way to isolate the leak. Other methods like using powder etc won't tell you what fluid is involved and can easily lead to misdiagnosis.

I was just going to mention the UV dye!!

We use alot of this stuff here at work to find refrigerant leaks, it's great stuff. Usually when we have outdoor condenser leaks i have to come in at night to use the UV light to find them. Beats the hell out of the sniffer.

 

[remington88]

thanks i will have to try the dye. casting plug? what is that and how would you fix that?

 

[RLDSL]

thanks i will have to try the dye. casting plug? what is that and how would you fix that?

A freeze plug, instructions here

 

[remington88]

after crawling around mirror and flashlight in hand. its leaking right where the head mates to the block on both sides. so i guess its head gasket time. should i go ahead and stud the heads while its apart? or wait till i get a turbo to do that? eitherway i should use new bolts correct?

 

[87crewdually]

after crawling around mirror and flashlight in hand. its leaking right where the head mates to the block on both sides. so i guess its head gasket time. should i go ahead and stud the heads while its apart? or wait till i get a turbo to do that? eitherway i should use new bolts correct?

Since your non-turbo the cause very well could of been a clogged CDR allowing the engine to burn motor oil which ends up lifting the heads resulting in a leak as you describe. If you got the cash I'd stud it. Follow ARP's directions and torque them in sequence 5 times. Yes this means torquing and untorquing the stud nuts 5 x 17 x 2=170 times. I can't think of a better way to spend a Saturday afternoon!

 

[gatorman21218]

did you ever smell your exhaust? i guess it doesnt have to leak into the cylinder when a head gasket goes but i am still curious

 

[87crewdually]

did you ever smell your exhaust? i guess it doesnt have to leak into the cylinder when a head gasket goes but i am still curious

No, it doesn't always go into the combustion chamber. I've had them leak coolant into the oil and never leak any fluids just combustion from one cylinder to the next. There is more than one way to blow a head gasket, believe me I know. Here's a few examples, feel my pain.

Never burnt coolant but leaked coolant out the back at high boost and was mixing coolant in the oil.

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Built pressure in the coolant system, never burnt coolant or mixed with oil. The black streek is carbon tracking to the water port under high boost.

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Never leaked fluids or burnt any fluids but passed combustion from one cylinder to another and made the boost gauge VERY erratic from pushing compression back into the intake. Cylinder 3&5 fire rings eaten up.

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