Comp valve spring shim?

[blaz4wd]

hey everybody I have a few questions about this be for I make the order. The stuff I read on here about the upgrade to the comp valve springs says to run a .030 shim. I found the valve springs but having a hard time picking out what shim diameter. The valve says its outside diameter is 1.354 the closest I found for shim was 1.437 any one know what one to use? Also I heard that you only run the shims on exhaust valve I thought it was both?

 

[typ4]

All springs need to be shimmed to 1.80 installed height.
Ill try to look up the shim size.

 

[blaz4wd]

All springs need to be shimmed to 1.80 installed height.
Ill try to look up the shim size.

Also this for the new used 93 stock turbo 7.3 with 110,000-111,000 miles on it. So I'm just giving it the gaskets and thought because the heads would be off to do them. I will be using this motor to tow with a camper. So any other info will be good to replace when I'm in there.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

It would be a good time to install head studs.

 

[typ4]

My buddy put his turbo on at 120.000 and drove it to 330.000, so the miles are not an issue.

 

[blaz4wd]

It would be a good time to install head studs.

It would be but funding doesn't (wife) allow that at this time.

 

[blaz4wd]

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/cca-910-16

All springs need to be shimmed to 1.80 installed height.
Ill try to look up the shim size.

This is what I gathered from research on here and others to use.

 

[cpdenton]

Buy this kit. It has the center hole large enough to get over the taper at the base of the valve stem.

I found the my intake valves needed no shims to reach 1.8 installed height and my exhaust valves needed .045 to reach 1.8. This kit worked well to make that happen.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[blaz4wd]

Buy this kit. It has the center hole large enough to get over the taper at the base of the valve stem.

I found the my intake valves needed no shims to reach 1.8 installed height and my exhaust valves needed .045 to reach 1.8. This kit worked well to make that happen.

You must be registered for see images attach

This was with stock cam?

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I don't think that the cam has anything to do with valve spring height, just valve lift.

 

[blaz4wd]

I don't think that the cam has anything to do with valve spring height, just valve lift.

Ok newbie on this shimming valves

 

[Macrobb]

I'm going to point out that, in my experience, a mild turbo setup won't need the added spring pressure.
Once you start pushing over 18 PSI through the system(especially with a restrictive 'stock' turbo), that's when you really need the added spring pressure.
Pretty sure this also requires a bigger-than-90CC IP to do, too.

On my '88, I didn't start having valve train issues until I went with a 110CC pump and cranked it up enough to give me around 22 PSI from a TE06H turbo - Going up a hill at WOT, the massive exhaust back pressure held the valve open enough that the lifter 'pumped up' just a hair, the valve hit the piston, and bent the pushrod.
Ended up doing this a couple of times under the same WOT condition before I finally swapped in stronger springs(Only the exhaust pushrod bent).

Mind that I had been running around with a 90CC pump and then a 110CC pump for a couple of years before this with no issues, pushing 15-ish PSI.


What I'm saying is that while the stronger springs are an upgrade, they are in no way critical for a turbo. Only if you are going for massive power(>250 HP at the wheels, or about double the stock NA HP) do you really need to worry about it.

 

[cpdenton]

I'm going to point out that, in my experience, a mild turbo setup won't need the added spring pressure.
Once you start pushing over 18 PSI through the system(especially with a restrictive 'stock' turbo), that's when you really need the added spring pressure.
Pretty sure this also requires a bigger-than-90CC IP to do, too.

On my '88, I didn't start having valve train issues until I went with a 110CC pump and cranked it up enough to give me around 22 PSI from a TE06H turbo - Going up a hill at WOT, the massive exhaust back pressure held the valve open enough that the lifter 'pumped up' just a hair, the valve hit the piston, and bent the pushrod.
Ended up doing this a couple of times under the same WOT condition before I finally swapped in stronger springs(Only the exhaust pushrod bent).

Mind that I had been running around with a 90CC pump and then a 110CC pump for a couple of years before this with no issues, pushing 15-ish PSI.


What I'm saying is that while the stronger springs are an upgrade, they are in no way critical for a turbo. Only if you are going for massive power(>250 HP at the wheels, or about double the stock NA HP) do you really need to worry about it.

I have installed the comp springs on my rebuilt heads I prep for my typ4 cam install.

 

[typ4]

Which is required for the Cam .

 

[blaz4wd]

So what I'm kind of getting from this is that for a stock motor it don't make a difference. If I add them it's for extra security if I don't the stock valve springs will be fine. I'm on the fence on replacing them or do u use the money for something else. Just for mind sake I'm going to be useing this motor to pull a 26ft max 5400lb travel trailer. From Wisconsin to Wyoming again. The stock motor/trans didnt like it. So this is where I'm trying to stay on a budget but replace the parts that common fail points?? Hope you all understand so I replace this or spend it here. Lol