Clutch Switch OverRide??

[Pull-n-TugTx]

Jumped in the truck this am. Clutch in hit the key, got a half crank and then nothing. Clutch out. Clutch back in. 4x!!! Cranked up!!

Crawled under the dash and noticed the Clutch Switch hanging, and the PLASTIC clip that holds it on the Clutch Cylinder Shaft is broken and thus gone. So looking around I notice that the Post that it attaches to on the pedal mount is loose. So I push it back in to place and notice there is no Clip to hold it on.

Go about my drive! BLAMO!! The clutch hits the floor, and Im in 4th down hill to a stop sign. Blow the horn roll through the stop and find a spot to pull aside. Look under the dash and see that the Pedal link is no longer attached to the Cylinder Shaft and that damn PLASTIC bushing is in pieces in my floor board. Limp it to my fav parts store for some new PLASTIC bushing, and a new Clutch Switch.

I have driven several other of these truck that, for what ever reason the Clutch Switch was bypassed or not working, i.e. no need to push clutch to start.

Any thoughts on this???

 

[Greg5OH]

i think if you just loop the wires you will bypass the need to have clutch in to start.
I prefer stargin an engine with clutch out, less stress on teh thrust bearing, especially when there is no oil pressure. (star up)

 

[riotwarrior]

paper clip in the plug is good nuff...what I've done for two years

Gotta love NOT having to press clutch to start.

So is your clutch arm PIN worn or the eye on the pushrod worn? If so there is a Tech 101 written up on replacement!

 

[Oog]

Make sure youre not in gear though. 5.14 first with 4.10s a new starter and two new batts will overpower the ebrake and start the truck

 

[ADV]

I bypassed mine and put a toggle switch under the dash.

 

[chris142]

That stupid switch and annoying door open chime are the first things to go on my stuff!

 

[79jasper]

Could've goose it and popped it out of gear. Just like floating gears, but only go to neutral.

 

[jaluhn83]

Clutch switch is easy, just jumper the 2 wires.

Be aware that this also ties into the cruise control though - without the clutch switch if you forget and try to shift for reason with cruise on it'll more than likely redline the motor. (cruise trying to keep speed up is just going to keep giving the motor more throttle)

Failure of the clutch pushrod is common on these. I like to drill and use a cotter pin on the link. I also fitted it with a bronze bushing instead of the plastic pos on my rig. What I've seen is a bad bushing leads to wear on the pin which makes it tapered and pretty much forces it to pop off. Only way to fix that is to replace the pin.

 

[franklin2]

Clutch switch is easy, just jumper the 2 wires.

Be aware that this also ties into the cruise control though - without the clutch switch if you forget and try to shift for reason with cruise on it'll more than likely redline the motor. (cruise trying to keep speed up is just going to keep giving the motor more throttle)

Failure of the clutch pushrod is common on these. I like to drill and use a cotter pin on the link. I also fitted it with a bronze bushing instead of the plastic pos on my rig. What I've seen is a bad bushing leads to wear on the pin which makes it tapered and pretty much forces it to pop off. Only way to fix that is to replace the pin.

I was going to mention the cruise thing also, but the problem will not be runaway, the problem initially will be the cruise will not work at all. It has a seperate circuit coming from the cruise module that goes through the clutch switch. The clutch switch on trucks with cruise must have 4 wires. So you will need to twist together the two lightgreen wires for the cruise. And then yes, you will go to full throttle if you push in on the clutch with the cruise engaged. But that's something most people will never do, but Ford has to make it dummy proof.

 

[jaluhn83]

Good point. I forgot about the 2nd pair of wires... probably cause my rig never had the clutch switch.

Hate to say it, but I've almost shifted once or twice with cruise on.... easy to not think about it and do so. Probably wouldn't hurt anything cause you'd figure it out real quick, but still good to know.

 

[Pull-n-TugTx]

paper clip in the plug is good nuff...what I've done for two years

Gotta love NOT having to press clutch to start.

So is your clutch arm PIN worn or the eye on the pushrod worn? If so there is a Tech 101 written up on replacement!

Its just the PIN that is worn. The Pushrod is new this year. I will look in to the write up.

Already spent the $70 bucks on a new switch and more plastic bushings. Stoping every time I hit 3rd gear the PIN would come loose which was a PAIN IN THE

Thanks for all the advice. I went in to MAKE IT RIGHT! RIGHT NOW! Mode and didnt get back on here.

 

[madpogue]

My favorite fix for the cr@ptastic plastic bushing - replace it with a short piece of 1/2"OD x 7/16"ID brass tubing, just enough to fit in the pushrod eyelet. Then assemble, get a 7/16" drill stop collar and put it on the end of the pin that sticks through the eyelet. Smooth action, won't ever pop out.

Clutch fails to disengage in traffic - two-foot the brake pedal and let it stall the engine.

 

[mf7lakes]

clutch mod - getting rid of the plastic bushing- from this website: http://oilburners.net/articles/Heim joint clutch pedal mod.htm ---

get the part on Ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-Clutch...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a85b85bfe

as for the bypass for the clutch safety switch:

Clutch switch is on the clutch rod right where it heads out the firewall. There should be a 4 wire flat plug attached to it, 2 wires for starting and 2 wires for cruise control. The switch itself, has a clip on it that allows it to be removed in two pieces. the 2 red w/blue stripe wires, if jumped together, will bypass the clutch-in-to-start switch. the 2 green wires are for the cruise control dis-connect. I hope this might help.