Clutch master & slave gripes

[RavenTBK]

Seriously Ford? Who in the holy hell thought it was a great idea to use roll pins to retain the stupid hose between the master and slave. This now ranks as the stupidest thing I have ever run into on repairing any of the family cars. Even beyond the random torx bit on front calipers that GM used for 3 years that no parts store carries the bit for and had to special order off the interweb.

In my case, apparently the slave has been replaced recently. The roll pin was rather easy to remove, and split the tube from the cylinder. The master, on the other hand, has been a complete pain in my junk. Beyond the contortions required to unbolt the thing, beyond one of the studs backing out of the master cylinder instead of the nut coming free, I get to the stupid roll pin. Its halfway out, and flat out refuses to go any further. I have broken two punches with the stupid cylinder moving every time I strike it, not to mention the numerous times I have ended up striking my thumb or finger.

I've already soaked it with PB, and am able to easily drive it back to its original spot and back again to where it stops.

Any tips to getting it free? Where can I wedge the master that it'll hold steady enough to drive the pin? I am almost pissed enough to cut the tube.

 

[RavenTBK]

Tell you what... I've got a huge blood leak under my thumbnail that will likely require releasing, got a big dent in my cowl, and my aircleaner now leans to the left like a thug riding through the hood. But its out. Used a ratchet for a level surface to hit on instead of the stepped aircleaner lid that allowed the master to shift around, held what was left of my second punch, and gave it hell with my 3# mini sledge. At least giving it hell is what google results told me to do. Now my only problem is darkness and excess blood sucking insects.

I was simply going to delete my one post, but the system wont let me. Guess its sat too long. So here's the solution. Get a bigger Ford tool, and rock out.

 

[flareside_thun]

I'd rather get the pre-bled master, slave and line from Napa or LMC than go through that kind of hell.

 

[riotwarrior]

Hmm..interesting dilemna...

 

[OLDBULL8]

I have broken two punches with the stupid cylinder moving every time I strike it, not to mention the numerous times I have ended up striking my thumb or finger.

No suggestion other than, hold the punch with a pair of VISE GRIPS. No crushed thumbs that way.

Edit: Don't drill the thumb nail to let the blood out, might drill all the way thru. Hold a large needle with a pair of VISE GRIPS and heat it red hot, kitchen stove is fine if it's gas, place it on the nail and it will melt thru only deep enough for the blood to flow. Fingers, just need Band Aides.

 

[RavenTBK]

I'd rather get the pre-bled master, slave and line from Napa or LMC than go through that kind of hell.

Spent about two hours at my local corporate Napa yesterday afternoon before I got started. They called about six different helpline numbers and searchEd through three different computer systems, they say there is no complete kit. The closest thing that exists is the master and line pre bled.... and that so-called kit wasn't even in their system available to be ordered.

Their response was, it must've been an independent Napa that offered that. Apparently independent stores can carry items other than Napa/Balkamp, and the kit is likely from a different supplier.

Believe me, the whole kit n kaboodle to just drop in was my first choice. Although I did slightly score with the slave cylinder. All metal instead of plastic for $15 at my local AutoZone. The exact same chinese part was at Advance for $50. Only downside is, neither one of them had a bleeder screw but the allen head plug, and none of my local stores carried a M8 x 1.25 threaded bleeder to fit it. But it is metal instead of cheap plastic. I should have it all back together after work tonight.

 

[RavenTBK]

No suggestion other than, hold the punch with a pair of VISE GRIPS. No crushed thumbs that way.

Edit: Don't drill the thumb nail to let the blood out, might drill all the way thru. Hold a large needle with a pair of VISE GRIPS and heat it red hot, kitchen stove is fine if it's gas, place it on the nail and it will melt thru only deep enough for the blood to flow. Fingers, just need Band Aides.

That's a good tip. Never thought to go through the nail. Although I had heard horror stories about drilling it. I was taught to go under the nail, either from the end or the side with a heat sterilized needle to release the pressure....which is obviously more painful than the impact that caused it. Going to have to remember that one.

 

[Agnem]

Sorry to hear of your frustration. Strangely, the roll pin has always worked well for me, and has never given me a lick of trouble on any of my trucks. *shrugs*

 

[franklin2]

You don't "drill" your nail with the bit in a power drill. Just take a very small bit, stick it about in the middle, and run it back and forth between your fingers of your good hand. People told me i was going to need to drill it when I smashed my thumb good, and I didn't believe them. But it eventually hurts so much, and has so much pressure, you have to do something. It's so numb from the pressure you don't feel anything when you make the hole. The big problem I had was it kept scabbing over and I had to keep using the drill to keep it cleaned out and flowing.

P.S. You will probably write back in cussing and fussing because you can't get it bled out. Just use the bleeders to get the majority of the air out. The rest of the air will work it's way out after you take it for a test drive. You might have to force it into 5th, and then quickly work your way down to 2nd to get started, but once you take it for a drive, it will get better and better.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Sorry to hear of your frustration. Strangely, the roll pin has always worked well for me, and has never given me a lick of trouble on any of my trucks. *shrugs*

Cough Carlisle cough nightmoose cough