Changing clutch. Removing transmission questions.

[Rot Box]

My DMF is making noise and I have not made up my mind on a clutch yet--I honestly just haven't had a lot of time to research it. Whether it be an upgraded replacement or switching to SMF I need to do it soon and I'm really not looking forward to it

Anyway is there anything in particular that I need to worry about when removing the trans? Any tips or suggestions? Hidden surprises? I have the ATS kit--should only need to remove the cross pipe right?

Here is what I had in mind:

1. Remove drive shafts
2. Remove both shifters
3. Remove starter
4. unplug any connections/speedo cable
5. Remove cross pipe for exhaust
6. Remove bell housing bolts from motor (btw how many bolts are there?)
7. Undo transmission/t-case cross member
8. Pull out and drop onto trans jack with t-case attached

Missing anything? I can remove the trans and re-install it in my Toyota in about an hour, but this looks so much more intimidating! Anyway thanks a bunch,

Andrew

 

[Pele]

I've got a related question...

How heavy is the ZF5-42? Can I pick it up by myself? Can take it out from under the truck on my chest like I do my smaller cars?

 

[91crew]

the zf-5 is a heavy son of a b. I found it impossible to maneuver around without the help of a transmission jack.

 

[91/2 7.3idi]

My DMF is making noise and I have not made up my mind on a clutch yet--I honestly just haven't had a lot of time to research it. Whether it be an upgraded replacement or switching to SMF I need to do it soon and I'm really not looking forward to it

Anyway is there anything in particular that I need to worry about when removing the trans? Any tips or suggestions? Hidden surprises? I have the ATS kit--should only need to remove the cross pipe right?

Here is what I had in mind:

1. Remove drive shafts
2. Remove both shifters
3. Remove starteri left my starter in when i put my zf in
4. unplug any connections/speedo cable
5. Remove cross pipe for exhaustalso left the y pipe on
6. Remove bell housing bolts from motor (btw how many bolts are there?)6 i think plus the dust shield
7. Undo transmission/t-case cross member
8. Pull out and drop onto trans jack with t-case attached

Missing anything? I can remove the trans and re-install it in my Toyota in about an hour, but this looks so much more intimidating! Anyway thanks a bunch,

Andrew

i put my zf in my truck in my drive way, by my self when i was 16. i just used 2 floor jacks and some blocks of wood.also, i pull the carpet back and remove the cover in the floor of the cab. makes things so much easier. plus you can get the top two mounting bolts from there.

on edit didnt see that you have the ats kit so you might need to remove the cross over pipe

 

[jperecko]

After dropping my atlas from 2 feet above me, narrowly missing my head and crushing a finger against cement, let me say that you want a transmission jack. By all means it can be done with a regular floor jack or 2 and some creativity... but nothing matches the simplicity and safety of just having the right tool for the job. I spend ~100 and got a great deal on a perfect trans jack through CL and a job that was frustrating and a pain went almost as smooth as changing my oil. ... even with one hand still in bandages.

 

[Agnem]

If it were not for the design of the cross member and the bolts they used to attach it, it would be a cake job. But you will spend 50% of your time on this project working on those dang bolts!

 

[Rot Box]

Thanks for all the reply's so far keep them coming!

Maybe I'll stressing out too much--sounds like you guys didn't have too tough of a time.

btw I have an extra heavy duty transmission jack that I will be using...

 

[Taters]

Mel is right about removing the cross member. I found that using one of those u-joint socket adapters really helps.

Instead of a transmission jack, I found a floor jack with a transmission lift adapter at Harbor Freight. It was a little cheaper than a transmission jack, and after finishing I could remove the transmission adapter and just use the floor jack.

If you don't have a tool for removing the pilot bearing, you might pick up one at Harbor Freight while you're there. The first one I bought from them was a regular puller with fingers and a bolt, and I broke the fingers off. So, I took it back and got a slide-hammer style remover with heavy-duty fingers that go into the bearing and expand. That worked like a charm.

My transfer case lost a bunch of oil through the vent holes once I got it out. Made a heckuva mess in my garage. It might be wise to drain the oil from the transfer case before dropping it.

 

[Sycostang67]

The trans will be a lot easier to manuever if you take the t-case off. The t-case is light enough to remove yourself without a jack. There's no fluid in the coupler between the t-case and transmission so you dont have to worry about making a mess.

 

[Rot Box]

Great thanks again you guy's

I pulled the inspection plate today and didn't see anything really out of place--that said I couldn't really see anything at all I heard awhile back that the flywheel can have an acceptable amount of back and forth "play" but I don't know if this is true or not.

Man those top bell housing bolts look like a pita! Is it better to get a swivel adapter and a really long extension or try to get them from the top? I really don't want to move my turbo at all

Sorry to sound like such a newbie...

EDIT: Yep that cross-member job is as lame as it gets!

 

[Sycostang67]

I have used enough extensions to reach the bolt from past the end of the tranmission. You need a friend to guide the socket while you wrench from the rear. It may help to lose the t-case then lower the transmission a bit to give you a better angle.

 

[Agnem]

There's no fluid in the coupler between the t-case and transmission so you dont have to worry about making a mess.

Provided that the rear seal in the trans hasn't failed. I had this happen on a Chevy K20, and when I took the drain plug out of the NP205 (which is like an inch or more in diameter) , I had what must have been about 8 to 10 gallons of ATF shoot out past the drain pan, streight down the driveway into the street. I looked like one of those old time Oklahoma oil rig workers when I got out of there. It was a real gusher! All I could figure was the rear seal went, and the owner kept pouring in the ATF until the automatic trans dip stick looked right. By then, the xfer case WAS the rear seal. Both trans were full to the brim. My helper who owned the truck nearly pissed himself he was laughing at me so hard. It shot me right in the face, and everything.

 

[TWeatherford]

I suggest pulling the front seat and the carpet back, then the access panel. Makes getting at the top bolts pretty easy. You will need a wobble joint, and about 18" of extensions for it to be easy. All in all its a pretty easy job, but having a transmission jack is pretty much totally necessary. Even if you can get it out without one getting it back in would be real hard.

 

[82F100SWB]

What may work, I know it will with a small block, haven't done an IDI without a body lift, but, if you pull the trans crossmember with the trans on the jack already and let it down some, the engine should move on the mounts and the rear should come down, making bolt access a bit easier.
Pulling the trans tunnel cover is another good way to get in there though.
The T-case is just manageable by hand, the transmission, not happening.

 

[dave186]

I have a 36" extension and a 5/8 wobble socket I use on those top bolts. Just lower the trans down once you get the crossmember out. I have done more clutches in these trucks than I can count, both gas and diesels. I have never pulled the carpet and the center hump, just the shifter. I can usually have the trans and clutch out in an hour and a half when working with the truck on a hoist, a little longer if I gotta roll around on a creeper.