Carrier Bearing question

[payableondeath6]

I've just got a quick couple questions regarding the carrier (driveshaft support) bearing replacement I just found out last night I'm going to have to do

I see a couple different bearing diameters listed on RockAuto.com (although I'll likely be calling AutoZone, Advanced, NAPA, Carquest, etc...whoever has one in stock). Aside from the obvious measuring it, anyone know what diameter I need?

Another question. I soaked the bolts in PB Blaster last night and plan on doing the same everyday until I get to the job (probably Friday, and don't worry it's not my DD), but with the level of rust this truck exudes I'm sure they will prove to be difficult. Would a small MAPP bottle torch help any in getting the bolts out or getting the bearing off the driveshaft? Didn't know if it'd be worth dropping $20 to have one on hand before I start the job.

Anybody with a similar truck. Looks like the front shaft just bolts to the output shaft of the tranny and the rear shaft slides into the pumpkin...Is this right? Are the two pieces just slid together too?

Thanks for all the answers. Tried searching first and came up with some good stuff.

 

[hoodshauler]

not sure of the bear size. but the drive shaft is a two piece it will slide apart right past the carrier bearing ( if memory serves me right) the drive shaft is bolted at both ends. iThe bearing is a PIA to get off i do remember that.

 

[RLDSL]

For the bolts , a can of Aero Kroil is your friend.
As far as the bearing, usually a press is in order for getting those things off and on. I suppose it's possible to fight one off by hand, but you'd have to be a lot burlier than I am

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Don't let the rust scare you - my truck used to be a farm vehicle, and as such has amounts of rust that to mots folks will look just downright scarey, yet yesterday when I was dropping the rear tank straps the bolts came off pretty easy, just need some PB Blaster on them. What really helps is if you can get a breaker bar on one end of the stuck bolt, and a box-wrench on the other, then jam the box-wrench against something hard and reef away on the breaker bar.

 

[typ4]

the big one, the little one is for pre 80 ish I think. ours are 1.250 iirc.

 

[HammerDown]

To get the old bearing off...I use a Cut-Off wheel >works just fine.
To install the new bearing I use a length of fence pipe, maybe 2' long-
the ID matches up with the inner bearing race...a nice tap-tap and it's on.

 

[payableondeath6]

the big one, the little one is for pre 80 ish I think. ours are 1.250 iirc.

Thanks, I'll start calling places tomorrow probably. Wife just got back from 2 weeks in Ethiopia, got a lot of catching up to do

To get the old bearing off...I use a Cut-Off wheel >works just fine.
To install the new bearing I use a length of fence pipe, maybe 2' long-
the ID matches up with the inner bearing race...a nice tap-tap and it's on.

That was my thought on getting it off, cutting it close and then smacking it around a little. Nice tip on the fence pipe, have to take the bearing into the hardware store with me to see what matches up with it. Missed soaking the bolts in PB Blaster last night, gotta make sure I get them sprayed tonight.

As for the driveshaft just unbolt at both ends then (must not have looked close enough and missed that rear end bolt up) and slide apart? I won't forget to mark it for reassembly.

 

[icanfixall]

Actually where the front and rear shafts slip together there is only one way it fits. When you have it apart look at the splines. There is a flat spot and that matches the other end. Otherwise they wont fit back together. I just had my shaft cut down because of the Gear Vendors install I did. They showed me this alignment area. They also balanced and replaced all the u-joints.. Toatl cost was $202.00.... Now all the grease fittings are in alignment for easier lubeing while under the truck. In the past I had to rotate the shaft to get at all the fittings... Not any more.... Life is getting better all the time...

 

[david85]

If the bolts a really stubborn and I don't want to mess around waiting for some oil or heat to loosen them, I just attach the best 1/2" socket I have and use the breaker bar with a cheater pipe to force it off. It will either unthread, or it will break and I replace the bolts. Either way it gets done.

 

[sassyrel]

the only problem with forcing the bolts--no nuts on the backside---they are formed nut clips--and they will break off the retaining clip--and go round and round--keep soaking those suckers--as i had to wait for the ford dealer to get new clips--and antisieze when put back together!!!!!!!!!!!!! like one said--cut the bearings off with a grinding wheel--much easier than torch--and no heat---